Swapping Radiator

Swapping my cracked / leaking OEM radiator with an aluminum aftermarket one made by Champion. Gonna flush and replace coolant as well obviously. How much coolant does a 4.7 take? Any advice on the swap would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

These threads will help

https://www.tundras.com/threads/v8-radiator.99939/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-to-me-tundra-servicing.140211/#post-3533846

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-tundra-which-coolant-to-buy.83158/

https://www.tundras.com/search/6541827/?q=Radiator&o=relevance&c[node]=2

 

Make sure you drain the plugs on each side of the block.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/overheated-fixed.52528/page-2#post-1385527

 

So how do you like the Champion radiator so far working in the Az heat? Did you go with electric fan or did you keep the stock fan?

 

I'm not the OP, but after my my second OEM radiator crimp failure (second one lasted me less than 2 years, see note below...)

https://youtu.be/PnLXET6GBGw?si=TOviZQ8pXuaCahWc

I ordered a Champion all aluminum radiator. Hopefully I'll get it shipped and installed within the next two weeks and I'll update then.

Note: when I spoke to the Toyota dealership where I bought the second OEM radiator, they told me the radiator they sold me was an "OEM replacement" and not actually a genuine OEM. A genuine OEM radiator would have cost me $500, whereas the Denso OEM replacement was only about $160. Something to think about when buying OEM...

This is what I ordered for my 05 DC:

 

I just installed an OEM Denso radiator in my 2001 Sequoia on Sunday. I agree they are NOT the same as a factory Radiator. The radiator body is exactly the same however. What is different, are the two mounts on either side of the rad. The one I bought had speed nuts attached for mounted to core support. The factory brackets had welded on nuts that can’t move. I simply switched brackets and put the old brackets on the new rad. They both bolt on to the rad with T nuts.

 

My experience as well. I swapped the mounts from my old one to my new one.

 

Following . . .

 

Access Cabs and Regular Cabs typically use different radiators from Double Cab and Sequoia.

Champion shows CC2321 for all Tundra V8 and Sequoia. Hopefully Champion accounted for the difference and the radiator can fit correctly.

And hopefully this one will last for you.

 

If you spend enough time on forums you eventually get an "ear" full on what "OEM" really means, or doesn't. Toyota, generally, doesn't make parts. They contract with parts manufacturers for their parts. Yes, most of us already know this. Sometimes this involves manufacturing to very specific specifications laid out by Toyota, an actual change from how the company would normally make a part. Sometimes all it involves is taking a standard part and putting a Toyota sticker on it. Through the years, even for the same generation truck, Toyota will sometimes change manufacturers for certain parts.

A change in a Denso radiator from 2002 to 2024 might just be a change in Denso radiators over 20+ years, nothing at all to do with "OEM vs non-OEM". Or maybe not.

It all gets very sticky. Toyota may no longer have a deal with Denso to produce radiators for them to sell as OEM. Whether that has any impact on the way Denso is currently making their radiators is a question most of us can't answer.

The first time I replaced my Tacoma radiator, they were still available from Toyota. It was leaking again in 20,000 miles. When I replaced it the next time I went with CSF, because Toyota no longer offered them. The CSF radiator didn't fit quite right...but fit, and held up better than OEM.

Best we can do is strongly prefer OEM, know when it's necessary and when it's not, and most importantly do our research on what aftermarket parts are complete crap, and which ones are quality.

 

I've always been intrigued by the aluminum radiators for our trucks . . . but after reading a few posts from members here with leaks, defects, and quality control issues, I'm still scratching my (bald) head. LOL

 

Whelp, quick update:

Good news - radiator arrived earlier than expected.

Bad news - Ace Ventura works for Fed Ex.

Called up Champion and spoke with Jeff and George to ask them if the damage was bad enough to warrant an exchange. They said it didn't look bad enough to leak but they'd send another one just in case. So much for slapping it in over the weekend, but definitely appreciate their help.

Side note 1 - The box has a sticker that says "CAUTION, use only ethylene glycol antifreeze/coolant and distilled water for this aluminum radiator (Use the Green stuff!)" So I asked about using Toyota "Red stuff" (see last pic) instead of the green stuff and they said it was fine.

Side note 2 - I also didn't realize Champion has a lifetime warranty on this radiator, maybe because it's all aluminum? For trucks that last 400-500k, that alone makes this a very worthwhile upgrade.

If Houston has some dry weather this weekend I may still pull out the oem radiator and take some pics/measurements next to the new one (aka the paperweight) and check fitment just for fun.

I'll keep you guys updated.

 

Glas they are sending you a new one.

I've owned radiators with worse damage than this not leak, and I don't believe it would leak but you might as well install a pristine one if they send it to you. That's what you paid for after all, right?

 

I also agree that the damage wouldn’t cause a leak in the future. And i also agree that i would want a damage free radiator if i paid for a damage free radiator.

On a side note, last spring i bought a Champion radiator for a project truck of mine. The truck is a 1971 ford f250, the champion radiator is for a 1978 f250, and the engine between the frame rails is a 95 Cummins 12 valve. I had to modify the radiator a whole bunch to get it to fit my application. I’m pretty sure i voided the lifetime warranty on the first pass with my aluminum spool gun. The radiator felt decent quality to me as i was cutting it apart (to modify it).

 

You know back in the day, radiators used to be all brass and copper. fuck this plastic shit.

 

I would fill it with Toyota pink. Why did you go with Aluminum instead of Denso.

 

And before these two, I had another one fail at the crimp on my '07 Sequoia.

 

These are the damage points I'd be concerned about. Specifically the middle circled one. If this gets bolted up instead of the replacement, I'd ensure you don't see a leak in that spot with the pedal at 3k-4k RPM. Each of those vertical tubes is carrying coolant.

 

Denso replacement experience in bestgen and a taco:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2219#post-3644071

Denso still running strong from 2018 in bestgen.

But given the leaking Denso about 2 years after installation in the taco, and because couldn't wait for another rad to ship from those considered (Carparts, Mishimoto, Toyota, or RA) and potentially find it was damaged like OP, switched to lifetime warrantied radiator from Orielley for $157 in stock locally to get it back on the road. The core is thinner than the Denso, amd did a little mod to swap the side mounting rails for the originals (like on the Denso) to get the front apron mounting holes to line up, but so far so good.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...t-gen-edition.138573/page-11086#post-29990439

 

What PSI is the Champion radiator cap rated for?
My truck builds a lot of pressure in the cooling system. I replaced the cap with a new one but it made no difference. It does not seem to flow back and forth between the radiator and overflow. I think the aftermarket radiator I have has something funked up with the water neck that doesn't allow the plunger on the cap to function properly

 

Stock radiator cap says 88kPa, which is 12.76psi. The Champion radiator cap has 0.9 on it, which I'm assuming is in Bar, or 13ish psi. Simple question, so much math...




Also, Champion said for me not to bother returning the damaged radiator. Tracking on the new one shows it should arrive Thursday the 7th.

 

*Spoiler alert* If you have a DC, DO NOT GET A CC2321 CHAMPION RADIATOR!!! I don't know how different RC and AC radiators are, but I guarantee the CC2321 is definitely not correct for DCs no matter what Champion CS tells you.

That being said, it's too late for me, so the remainder of this post will be one nearly continuous rant...

Replacement radiator arrived from Champion today. Much better packed this time.

Somehow, though, still some minor damage...


The minor dings weren't a big deal but yes, that is some serious warpage going on. Was able to get it straightened back out with some precision stomping from the better half.

Great... drain coolant (just over a gallon if anyone is curious) disconnect hoses, pull the bad OEM radiator, drop in the shiny new Champion radiator, and find out the ears hold it too high for the bolt holes to line up properly. Hmm...

Pull out the shiny new radiator, line it up next to the old one, and start measuring. Here's where the fun starts...

Looks like the mounting hole locations on the Champion are about 1" higher than stock so the radiator will sit a little lower. Fine... let's keep measuring...

OK, looks like I'm slotting holes and retrofitting the oem nut clips. Fine... now let's check the fan shroud...


Looks like we're trimming the upper hose opening too...

So a 1-2 hour job has just become a half a day job, yep, done for tonight, I'll get back to it and you guys tomorrow.

 

Makes me glad I put a Denso in my Double Cab...

 

I put a Denso in my Sequoia about 5 years ago and it's still holding. I put the same one in my Tundra and it didn't last 2. Russian roulette. We'll see if the Champion is any better after all the installation headaches.

 

Mine was opposite. Denso in Tundra holding and Tacoma only 2 years. Moved on to LAPS lifetime warrantied so can swap it. Either way with the Denso or LAPS needed to change the mounting brackets.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/swapping-radiator.141348/#post-3750751

 

Anything with a lifetime warranty is best, imo. These trucks last too long to keep buying radiators.

Finished the install and I'm fairly happy with the results. Total time invested on just the install, about 4 hours. Holes slotted, oem radiator nut clips in.

Fan shroud trimmed and fit checked.

Radiator sits a bit lower, so I trimmed upper and lower hoses. Also because I'm ocd...
Top:

Bottom:


Refilled with the old coolant because 1. Had new coolant in it from a few months ago, and 2. Finding a place to dispose of old coolant is a pain. After that, added another 3/4 gallon to top it off, assuming that's due to the extra row of the new rad.

End result: Radiator looks great and fits great (now...). Tundra running good, although the trans seems to shift just a tiny bit harder than before but that could just be my brain looking for another issue. Best guess, between what came out of the two trans cooler lines and what was left in the old unit I lost less than a cup of trans fluid, but I'll check it tomorrow.

Next time I lose a radiator, Denso and now Champion are definitely crossed off my list (or moved to the bottom as absolute LAST resorts)

It would be nice for readers in the future to have a list of some good replacement options. Anyone have good experience with aftermarket radiators, oem+, that just work?

 

Curious about the Denso failures. What exactly failed? External leak? Or internal leak as in the cooling loop for the trans?

 

It was on the Tacoma rad. Photos and writeup in the link. No interenal leaks or pink milkshake.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/swapping-radiator.141348/#post-3750751

 

Aluminum to plastic tank crimp failures:

 

Curious what differences, if any a $519 Mishimoto for our trucks has . . .

https://www.mishimoto.com/toyota-tu...Lsdrwvf5Ev1eEnTqCr4sCnm45A2lg1voaAuXmEALw_wcB