Another famous LBJ question

I just bought my truck about a week ago and my question is this. It’s a 2005 SR5 with 150,157 miles on it. The CARFAX shows that the truck had its lower ball joints replaced in 2007 at a Toyota dealership with 20k miles on it. I’ve read about the LBJ issues with these trucks and I’m just curious if I should replace them anyway? I checked for play in them yesterday and there doesn’t seem to be any at all. No steering issues, etc. Just wanted to get some opinions.

 

I dont have an answer to your question, I 100% thought this was going to be a thread about Lyndon B. Johnson....sorry.

 

LMAO

 

At 120,000 miles they past due based on the general consensus of the 100k service interval around here. Due to the design they can and will fail without any warning. Your typical push pull tests aren't a good indicator of the joint health (imo) due to the geometry and design of the front suspension.

Replace them, Its cheap insurance.

 

Absolutely, you should. The LBJ in these 1st gen trucks are under a notorious amount of strain, and typically fail without warning.

Only use OEM LBJ, if you need help with part numbers, here is what you need to buy for parts and bolts on your 2005-2006 along with quantities.

There are a few other things that really need to be changed proactively.

Make sure the timing belt, water pump, tensioners and pulleys have been done, Toyota calls for 9yr/90k miles on changing this out ***IF*** you use authentic OEM parts (may be much shorter with aftermarket). i.e. buy the Aisin kit from a legitimate source, counterfeit parts have been reported on scAmazon and fleaBay, you cannot trust those sources for legitimate auto parts. Summit Racing and Rock Auto are great parts sources. With OEM (Toyota/Aisin) parts you can let this ride until 100k/10yr, but if that belt snaps at any significant speed, your engine is likely toast.

Radiator is another, go with Denso, same caveat on sources applies, replace with the timing belt, for $120 it's small insurance. Note the Double Cab radiator part number is different from Access/Regular cab, look up your part at www.densoautoparts.com

Especially if you live up north or your truck was used to launch boats, make sure the $10 breather plug on top of the rear diff is replaced.

Make sure the PCV valve has been replaced, and consider replacing both PCV hoses on either side of the engine.

Consider proactively replacing the radiator cap.

If 4WD, be sure to check the rubber vent hoses on the actuators to verify they're intact and not cracked.

Anyway, I highly recommend you check this thread to familiarize yourself with your new truck, it'll help you with assessing your purchase. There's probably stuff I'm missing.

Welcome to the forum!

 

I appreciate the info. My dad has an ‘01 Tundra so I’m pretty familiar with some of the services that are needed. I got the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat done the second day I got it. Starting a new job next week so I’ll be needing to use the truck a lot and those LBJ’s were one of the main things I wanted to look in to. I’ll try and get the parts locally at a dealer, even if it’s a little more expensive.

currently waiting for my valve cover gaskets and apart plug gaskets to get delivered cause they’re leaking a bit. Also waiting for the spark plugs since they’re leaking seem original.

 

Take the part numbers above in my image over to https://autoparts.toyota.com

Plug the 1st part number in, search, and when you go to 'add to cart', it'll force you to pick a dealer local to your zip code.

If you have multiple dealers, click the first one; view the price; then click the BACK button in your browser, and click the next-closest dealer; view the price.

Go with whatever dealer has the best discount, some will be different. I have two dealers near me that charge full MSRP, like I'm walking up to the counter. I have two other dealers that give 18% off and 20% off, respectively, on most parts.

Here's the thing: If I go directly to the parts counter, those same two discounted dealers charge me FULL MSRP. Lesson to learn: Always start your shopping experience thru the online Toyota portal. You can then order at a discount with many participating dealers, and pickup at their parts counter for LESS than what they'll charge you (sometimes hundreds of dollars less) if you simply call them or walk in off the street!

The only caveat is, make sure you got your part numbers right. I'm 1,000% confident my part numbers linked above are correct for your truck.

 

I'll just leave this here...

 

Note that you should also replace the lbj BOLTS as well. If they shear the lbj will fail.

 

And for the part numbers I provided, use at least blue threadlocker, and torque minimum 48ftlb, though many of us here used 59ftlb due to a typo in the FSM and haven't had any issues, with that one specific bolt I pictured.

 

Thanks for your help here, Shifty. The only issue I found on that website was that it said the two lower ball joint assembly numbers didn’t match anything. The bolts were good, but the others didn’t pull anything up. I ended up calling my dealer and they have them in stock at $200 a piece

 

Yikes. They are more like $100 a piece online.

 

scratch that....for some reason it didn't pull up the part numbers when I had my vehicle selected. after deleting it, it showed up

 

Any idea why it would be saying that it might not fit my selected model which is my '05 Tundra?

 

Try another Toyota site and enter your VIN to confirm.

 

Did you input your VIN to the Search before beginning to look at parts? You got the right part numbers, should be:

Passenger: 43330-39825
Driver: 43340-39595
Bolts (you need 8): 90105-12316

But if you want to doublecheck, do this:

• Go here: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/
• Plug your VIN into the search box, and click Search
• Click the "Transmission and chassis" link
• Next to the 2nd image, click "48-02 - FRONT AXLE ARM & STEERING KNUCKLE"
• In the image they show you, click the "RH" to get the passenger part number for your VIN, then click the "LH" to get the driver part number.

​

 

For example, when I click the "RH" link inside the image, it coughs up these two part numbers. Both parts technically fit, the "SUBS" (substitute) number is the most current part number, the one ending '05' is older.

​

 

There is a split, I believe in the 04 model year, earlier models have smaller mounting bolts and later years have bigger ones. So that might be an Earlier year lbj. I’m not sure.

Steering knuckles are not the same between them as well.

 

‘04 is a crossover year. OP has an ‘05. I am 100% positive 05 and 06 use the LBJ part number seen in my pictures.

 

I’d trust your information with my life oh prophet.

 

Ha! Always doublecheck, I don’t need that on my shoulders.