What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yup, I posted about that one in here somewhere. Hell if I remember where, but I found that same damn issue at one point, I distinctly have a foggy memory of it, and that's usually always right at least 40% of the time.

Holup, I think I posted about that too, but if not, I've got the bolts readily handy downstairs. It's a common thread pitch. I had about half a dozen in my random bolts tray from project cars over the years.

That said, feed both in till they bottom out. One full turn per bolt, alternating, until it finally breaks free.

 

Heh ...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2091#post-3656062

Didn't list it there.

Anyway, went into my bolt tray and the 4 bolts sitting on top of the pile from when I relubed my rears recently are 3/8-16 coarse, which just so happen to also thread nicely into 10mm x 1.5 so I'm assuming either will work fine. I would also assume the latter is proper, metric, and the 3/8-16 isn't actually intended, just happens to work.

 

Never really needed to. They use a mixture of salt/sand on our roads, and stop with the salt once it drops below 5F since it stops working at that point. That basically means there's only a month or two in the shoulder seasons where there's salt, so I take the truck through a touchless wash once or twice each spring and early winter, which blasts off the undercarriage. I only have standard surface rust on my frame.

 

My state and the whole Northeast need to learn from your Province. I could easily deal with salt for the 10 years of ownership before they switched to calcium/magnesium chloride to save money and protect the grass at the expense of the car owner.

 

Our state uses volcanic ash crumbles up in the northern part where they get snow. It seems to be a win win win for everyone

 

Thanks, Shifty. Apparently it’s not in the FSM. Strange.

I’ll pickup a couple of those and some M8x1.25 since I see that listed by others on TS.

 

TS definitely says M8 x 1.25 It's possible I never put the bolts I used back into my bolt bin. I definitely had a couple of M 8 x 1.25 next to it, but there were more M10 x 1.5 in there so I assumed that's what it is.

You only need two, so ...

 

I will say, I thought these RT's looked very similar to my Method's, and SCS I'd seen. But the cutouts are definitely different size/shape and sometimes different count. Not by much, but they're definitely not quite the same. The way the interior lip of the rim is handled is different between them too.

Hindsight 20/20, I probably wouldn't have gone with these RT111 because of the faux bash ring. But had I been smart, I'd have done it and saved about $1k on my build thus far. Actually, more than that, these RockTrix are my 3rd set of wheels now. I sold my other set at a loss of about $400? And I'm sure I'll lose about the same on the Methods. I don't even want to think what I've thrown out the window thus far on mounting/remounting/balancing between all the wheels and tires. I could've bought two full sets of RT wheels at this point with all that money...

 

I think my problem may be the edge of the shoes catching the rust lip at the back of the drum. In which case, I’ll need to back the shoes off a bit.

 

I should’ve mentioned this in my earlier post:

I cracked one of my drums alone the blue line when trying to remove it. I think the same thing happened as you mentioned- the shoes were caught on the edge of the drums. Whacking them with a hammer helped.

 

I may not have to take them off to see which direction to tighten. IIRC, trying to loosen causes issues with the tab you need to push back and doesn’t happen smoothly while tightening has no resistance. The FSM is a little confusing with the drawings.

I figure I’ll just tighten enough to feel the shoes drag against the drums when rotating with the wheel off.

 

Have you got them off yet? FR is on the right path. The loosening sequence does seem strange, but once your getting them set, you want the wheel on to feel the grabbing force of the brake drag, and then go 2 more clicks

 

Cool, thanks. I was concerned about going over and having to loosen which I recall being a PIA getting that tab pushed back.

 

Those little, smoky, cinder pebbles?

 

Basically, I’m sure they refine them somehow to make someone’s pocket phatter

 

Probably.
At least they're plentiful

 

Seems like you've got it but just for reassurance's sake, the holes on my '06 are for sure M8 thread, and you are spot on that there is a lip on the edge of the drums that will require the shoes to be backed off a bit to allow the drums to come clear.

 

Got all my Baja designs mounted on the bumper. Used sendcutsend for a simple 3/16 steel mount. It’s a bit on the heavier side so I need to brace it somehow, but I’m a big fan of pods up front especially from the best in the business!

 

I do not hate this. I'm looking for a way to mount my auxiliary lighting up front. May do something similar.

 

This looks great. How do you get to the hood latch?

 

Finger yoga

 

If I can get the file out of send cut send I can send it to you if you ever want it.

Just reach from the side.

 

The ol reach around

 

Appreciate it. Could just attach one of those tuner car recovery straps to you hood latch release.

 

It’s actually not even awkward to get to. I think it definitely would be more difficult on a 00-02 though.

 

Ah. Didn't realize the latches were different pre/post facelift.

 

Alabama style?

 

Cleveland

 

I feel sheltered