What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

"Just changing a flat tire, be done in a bit."

I get not wanting a neighborhood of cars on blocks in the front yard but holy crap.

 

New serpentine belt today to end the insane squealing.
Trusted the NAPA site to recommend the correct one, mistake.
Wanted the nice green Gates, but oh no, that's way too short. 88 7/8"


So I decided to go with the NAPA brand for almost $20 less and get it done Today. 90 1/2"
Picture is the squealy belt getting tucked away as a spare.


Glad to have silence once again!
What size belt is standard? I looked online and I saw several 90.2" references.
Tensioner bolt head was 13mm, that seemed odd as well.
EDIT: This was my screw up. When shopping it didn't have a designation for with or without A/C, it was down in the fine print on the belts details. Which of course I didn't read. I was in a hurry to get it done today

 

you have A/C? Rockauto says the gates is 90.7", continentals are 90.5-90.7, the dayco was 90.75. The AC Delco gold Gates is 2319 mm.

w/o A/C is about 2ish" shorter.

 

Paint her windows black

 

how does it ride with the 2884?

 

Yes, the A/C pump is still present, the rest of the engine bay accoutrements have been gutted out.
I see now that the 88 7/8 is W/O air that's where MY Eff up was (fine print down in the page). This was the one they could get Today.
So the new one I have now (90.5) is just 3/4" shorter. We measured the old belt and they matched it.

 

I didn't know air conditioning with optional in these trucks

 

That’s funny because I don’t recall it ever being optional. Guess you can delete it if the compressor gives out. Probably only good for those who live in the greater San Francisco area.

Edit: Looks like it was optional on basic regular cab units.

 

Maybe in 2000. It was 100 degrees in San Francisco when I was there a few weeks ago.

 

I looked at the belt map/layout and there is a pulley there on the non A/C. If my A/C pump ever spins a bearing I'll be looking into that before I even buy a junkyard ac pump to act as a pulley again...

 

Probably Hawaii then I imagine. Can’t get above 90F, can it?

 

Noticeably firmer than the original factory shocks (non off-road package) and springs but not harsh, in my opinion.

 

Are those SCS wheels that have been blasted? They look just like my bronze Ray10s

 

I didn't know that either until I did my timing belt/water pump lol ordered a belt from gates and it was too short

 

Nope, Rocktrix RT111. I paid 70% less than you'll pay for SCS. More info and specs here. The guy above me ^^ also runs Rocktrix. Decent wheels. Pretty lightweight. I don't like the lack of removable bash ring, it's a faux-bash, but for what I paid, IDGAF. I dumped my gold Methods for these, I paid 3x+ as much for those.

 

Never heard of them but they look clean. Crazy how much they look like my scs's

 

Yeah, the design I have is really similar to what SCS and Method are putting out. They also have some designs really similar to what Fuel and Black Rhino have on the market. Typically in black, copper/bronze, and gunmetal/silver.

https://rocktrix.com/collections/offroad-street-wheels

I want to say @FishNinja is running the RT115 on his truck. I weighed these compared to my methods. There was a 3lb (<~10%) difference in weight but they feel a bit more stout. Again, my only complaint about what Rocktrix is the unnecessary weight add of loading the rim with aesthetic hardware. Like, if you're going to put bolts around the edge of the rim, gimme a reason. I like that my gold Methods have a removable bash ring, in the event I ever do rash them up on rocks, curbs, or whatever. But to that point, I can probably replace an entire wheel for a few bones more than I'd pay Method for a new bash ring and replacement hardware, so maybe it's a tossup?

But yeah, 4 wheels for under $590 shipped to my door, cross-country from California, that's a no-brainer.

 

Yeah I just took a look at their page and they have some pretty nice looking stuff. I'm assuming there are no copyright protections on Wheel design because some of those look darn near identical to other brands. But that is a significant price savings. I have five SCS bronze Ray tens and that set me back a handsome penny. But back when I bought them, they were really one of the only people that had a wheel anywhere similar to what I wanted. There were very few bronze options on the market at that time. I nearly went with a set of method Roost Wheels

 

Canadians ain't need no A/C

 

most likely same manufacturer in China. But yea. I had the rt115's. And like @shifty` said. They're so cheap it's really hard to argue against them.

I even got a used rt112 for under $100 as a full sized spare.

 

It's hard to believe you can machine something out of a block of aluminum that size and then afford to ship it all around the world for that price. It cost me out the absolute rear end to ship a package the size of one wheel through UPS the other day. I shipped it from Tennessee to California and they hit me for $130. My SCS wheels are made in Thailand but maybe China can do it cheaper. I know my SCS Wheels feel extremely robust compared to some other Wheels that I have felt that were in the cheaper category but I had these wheels on my 2000 truck when it got wrecked and I know the 10 ply goodyears I had on them took most of the impact but after the kid pulled out in front of me I was forced to drive through a rock embankment that ultimately sent my truck airborne but it's took a pretty much direct impact to the front wheels as my front winch bumper deflected the truck in an upwards motion to send me Airborne over the rock wall. I was decently impressed that at 60 MPH they didn't have any damage after taking that hard of a hit. It busted one of the tires and not the other so I was assuming that at least one of my wheels would be bent or something but they were not. I'm really not sure what it would take to bend one of these rims. There's no amount of off-roading that I will ever do that will equal the lick they took hitting a wall at 60 MPH which essentially ripped my control arms and buckled the frame there at the wheels.

 

I picked up the replacement steering rack boot today. Backstory: driver's side boot needs replaced, and according to the epc-data.com site and associated parts breakdown, it is part number 45535 - funny thing though, when you click on the link it takes you to 45536-0C010, and likewise when you click on the passenger boot labeled 45536, it takes you to 45535-0C010. Ha, I found a problem with the linking, good thing I caught that! Ordered 45535-0C010. Surprise! The links must have been right and the image is wrong, because 45535-0C010 is 100% too small for the driver's side and thus I got the wrong boot, but the right clamp. Ugh! The part I received is even labeled in my order confirmation "steering rack boot #1" but apparently #1 is not the driver's side.

After I removed it though I found a second hole, so at this point I have to assume the other side has a hole of its own or will soon, so I'm ordering the opposite boot/clamp to complete the set and will just replace both sides, no harm done. Just another 1-2 day delay now.

 

Tried to

 

Tried to take my drums off with no luck. Seems like there’s a lip I don’t recall? Anyone know if there are holes to push the drum out? The ones on my drum don’t look symmetrical.

 

I these two holes are threaded. Stick two bolts in there and press it off while hitting the drum with a hammer.

Can’t remember the thread size of said bolts but they had 12mm heads…


EDIT: I used old water pump bolts. Lemme see if I can find what size they are.

 

Hopefully the thread size and pitch are in the FSM. Thanks.

 

Yeah I never remember what size but I keep a couple of the right size screws in my tool bag.

 

Oil change, swap to winter tires, washer fluid top up, new wiper blades, quick spray down with the pressure washer. She's ready for winter.

 

Do you get the Krown treatment or just fluid film the undercarriage yourself?

 

Neither. I've never treated the undercarriage.