What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I went with refurbished steel spare tires rims on my Tacoma and really liked how they looked. They aged quickly...but still looked great. I like my starfish rims on the Tundra, but if I ever replace them I'll consider going with the black steel spare rims again. These photos prove they look great on the Tundra too.

 

I agree, I could have taken the time to sandblast and paint them properly but time was limited. I’ve always enjoyed the look of steelies myself.

 

Put the Tundra to work. Pulled the camper up the mountain this weekend. Fall colors are getting awesome. Petit Jean state park in Arkansas.

 

The pad pin holes don't look that wild to me. Look at the gaps in my post of the new OEM pads with new pins. They need to have some room so the pads slide and don't bind. Have seen where they get stuck on top or bottom or one side or the other and pads wear unevenly. And if adding grease definitely high temp caliper brake grease. Did you grease the backs of the pads/shims per FSM grease points?

 

That spring on the brake pads is backwards I believe

 

Agreed. Here is a photo of caliper loaded with new OEM pads and the spring tabs holding the pads firmly with the spring pushing the leading side of the pads outwards during forward travel.

 

Yep, shims have always been regreased per FSM however, this is the third time reusing shims so definitely a little rust.

 

I could try swapping the spring around however I don’t think it’ll matter that much.

 

Yep, the spring is upside down.

 

Backwards but not upside down.

 

No, they are not. They’ve always been on top since I’ve had the truck new.

 

Dual spring club!

the kinks sit on top of the pad.


deleted my comment, cause knabores, cc80, and toyota dude had it covered.

 

I hate letting people work on my truck. Last alignment guy who had trouble with my truck mangled a dust boot which I’ve only found out today, caused the CV axle to get a small leak at the differential and lastly adjusted the total toe from only one side of the truck so the inner toe rods are uneven.

Now I just found out somewhere along the line someone had put large tie wraps in place of the bands on my CV axles. SMH

 

With a significant assist from @FirstGenVol , I cleared all the remotes from my RS3000 ECU and programmed 2 remotes. I also replaced the ignition ring and driver's footwell bulbs with LEDs since I had the lower dash panel pulled out.

This forum (all of you) absolutely rocks as a source of information and support on these trucks!

 

This spring is upside down (and mis-shaped to boot).

 

Wow how did someone cause a leak where the CV mates to the diff getting an alignment? Did they remove the CV for some reason?

Are you talking about a tear in a CV boot or the steering rack.

If the CV needs repaired and you have OE CVs that are still in good mechanical shape can reboot them instead of swapping in aftermarket. Here's a link to writeup and video for how to reboot with various options, including OE, and also aftermarket (like the Allpro from Wheelers etc.) if lifted or plan to lift, so they don't re-tear.

And there are part numbers with economical source for worm style rolled edge band clamps to replace the zip ties that don't require the SST to install. Think all in it's like $15-20 for them including shipping.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

When they couldn’t get it to align they drove it off the plates to reset and you could hear it pop where the tire was under stress on the plate and immediately became unstressed as it came off the plate. That lead to the leak (which I found after I got home; beforehand it was bone dry).

After that they managed to get it aligned. The problem was that the tires were so far out of alignment, the machine couldn’t handle it until starting over with a 2nd attempt. (These were new LCAs and hardware)

The other issue was the dust boot on the steering rack getting mangled and hidden from view. Probably in frustration.

 

You mean backwards, right? Upside down makes no sense (unless you think it should be installed on the bottom caliper pin then you would be wrong for my year vehicle).

 

They're inside out.

 

They're reversed

 

Saw the movie.

Best description yet.

 

Sorry to hear. Never heard of a CV popping out like that without crazy droop and no limiting straps. Is it the driver or passenger side? The driver side allows driving the oil seal in till it seats, and the circlip on the end of the CV is like $1.50 and calls for replacement. The passenger side requires measuring the depth so it is not overdriven and doesn't seal on the OD of the CV. And if the driver side, might want to swap the needle bearing for the ECGS bushing while you're at it. Loaner tools are available in the forum.

 

It’s the drivers side. The leak isn’t severe enough yet. Not sure if it’ll get worse with time though.

 

I run the clips on both upper and lower pins and can’t think of a single reason why running just one makes more sense than running 2, other than the “it came that way”

 

Clearly prolapsed.

 

Got my shot power steering rack bushings swapped out for a fresh set of Total Chaos PU ones, along with an upgrade to SuspensionMaxx sway bar end links (SMX-122270T).

For those who installed the same end links, do mine look correct? I did my best to follow the provided install instructions, but comparing to others' photos, my passenger side lower bushing is not exposed at all. I don't see what looks like "improper" compression (ie, too much bulge). If I go much looser on the top nuts, the sleeve is able to spin somewhat freely.

For reference, I'm running Bilstein 5100 shocks with an OME 2884 (set to bottom notch) on my 4x4 DC (~1.5" lift/level).

 

Instructions show roughly what you've got. Bottom cams are parallel, which is probably people's biggest screwup. I'd like to see more engagement on the top bushings, no more than 1-2 threads spun down. Remember, poly bushings at play. I'd slab a little poly-safe grease on any part that may tough metal.

 

Went for an inspection and the guy said it would fail for the e-brake before he even pulled it into the garage in to do it. Apparently it’s got to hold the truck back with a little gas. Originally thought it only had to prevent coasting in drive with no gas or parked on an incline. Guess I was wrong.

Now I can’t even pull the drums to take a look on the proper orientation for the adjuster ( up or down to tighten) because my Karen neighbor is home with a sprained ankle and ready to report me.

I can’t win.