1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I don't think so.

 

HOLY STINKIN' SMOKES!! Mine appears to be mounted to a white plastic plate, which is then held on by the stud and nut you can just see in the lower left of this photo. Did you have to remove a fastener to pull the whole assembly down? That plastic plate also holds something else wrapped in electrical tape below the nut.

 

I mean you said it was a dodge so....

 

I bet it's behind the gauge cluster, which is way easy to remove. That's where my 03's RS3200 is. Whiles it's easy to get to, it's not easy to mess with. It's in there good behind a metal dash bar.

Anyways if you're just trying to program a new fob, why do you need to get to the brain? There should be a long procedure to program it. At least for the rs3200, it's like turn key on, roll down driver window, open door, turn key off, shut door, turn key on, roll up window, hit the lock... blah blah blah.

There's some videos on YouTube how to do the programming.

Edit: you found it already.

 

No I don't remember having to do that. Did you move the ball vent like I suggested?

 

If you mean this piece, then yes.

Okay, headed back down to see if I can work it free and far enough out to program.

 

Reclamp the boots. There's info on which clamps to buy on here. Lemme see if I can find it. DO NOT replace the axle! Seriously dude. OEM CV axles are fantastic.

Here you go, @ToyotaDude to the rescue! https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

RS3000 requires shorting some wires or some crazy shit. Or if you have a spare laptop with TechStream on it, I'm sure you can just program the fugger.

 

Right on, this is exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks for that @shifty`

 

I haven't been following the discussion that close but I was able to add a new keyless entry to mine. It was a pain but I eventually figured it out with help from a few ppl here.

 

Damn. I'm glad I never had to program new fobs on my 99 Tacoma then. Even though it's rs3000 was easy to access

 

@FirstGenVol you were following close enough to keep me pointed in the right direction. Big thanks!

Turns out my RS3000 ECU was actually hard mounted to a metal plate that was itself mounted to a stud with a 10mm nut roughly in the location @FirstGenVol mentioned. I dismounted it because I didn't recognize the recessed program switch was accessible (if almost out of view) on the bottom. Once I had access to the program switch, it took me less than 60 seconds to clear all previous remotes and then add the original and the spare remote following the PDF instructions posted by @shifty` here. Thanks to all who responded.

EDIT: FWIW this 2002 AC LTD has the RS3000 ECU, but uses the BAB237131-056 fobs.

 

I have my suspicions there are a couple of fobs that work for the RS3000 systems. I think it may support the older and newer style fobs....

 

Interesting suspicion. I have my doubts.

 

Any recommendations for surp belts? Are the $60+ dollar ones worth the ChaChing?
Thing started squealing like a banshee this last week. That's what I get for scrubbing it super clean when I did my fan bracket Got in there with my stethiscope and its on the alt pulley, WD40 spritz and she goes silent, so I'm pretty sure it's not the alt bearing.

 

OEM, AISIN or Gates are what I’ve always used.

 

I went with the Gates HD. Green one.

 

The solution used to be Gatorback belts until someone else bought them out and now it’s Continental Elite? Also heard Gates HD as a replacement. A new OEM will last you another 50k miles before happening again. Been down that road on both factory warranty and platinum extended care warrants a couple of times.

 

Just ordered a Gates NBH-25060882HD $50.54
NAPA has two HD green, they said both are Gates brand. One slightly bigger than the other, both show as "fit" though. At least if I have a problem I can take it right back/ local store. The one I can get today is the larger one.

 

I’ll probably go with the Continental Elite Poly-V since research shows the Goodyear Gatorback were made by Continental for sometime before the packaging stopped referencing the Gatorback. I know those work in the cold weather, but I don’t know as much about the Gates HD Green and who here from the North or Canada have been running with them for some time (over 50k miles) to solve their squeal issue.

 

Well, this is the 2nd person in one month that confirmed having the RS3000 box in their truck, and confirmed the remote with FCC ID ending in '056' worked for their truck. That same remote works for my '06 with RS3200. I want to say both RS3000 people were driving '02 or maybe one had an '03.

 

Is there an advantage to using the RS3200 fob with the RS3000 system? I've been thinking of getting another fob.

 

If possible? Dunno. Does the football shaped remote have a panic button? Does RS3000 support panic function? That's ultimately what I'd be checking.

 

It does- you hold down the lock/unlock button. Both lock/unlock/panic are all activated by the same button, someone told me the other one is for a second Toyota vehicle.

Can't you roll the windows down with the fob on the RS3200? Or is that just on Sequoias?

 

No option for window rolldown on the RS3200 I'm aware of. I didn't even know that was a thing for the Sequoias.

 

Just looked it up- it only works if you put the key in the lock and hold it in the unlock position. All the windows and the sunroof will open.

On my Lexuses you can hold the unlock button on the fob and it'll roll down all the windows. Mixed those two up.

 

I don't know about no fcc IDs.
I'm more interested in what the fob looks like

 

Someone told me the reason the rs3000 fob has 2 buttons is you can program the 'other' button for a different vehicle.

 

It's like you boys aren't even speaking English today.

 

I was told that too. Had to confirm with the manual.