General Supercharger Thread

Be ready to catch the check ball spring and accumulators/springs. I just layer the bolts and temp on a clean towel as I took them out. Accumulator side will want to pop down.

 

I took the OEM truck jack and secured a piece of wood to it. This way I was able to drop it down slowly so could catch the accumulator and spring, also the check bal and spring.

 

Well, the kit is all in. If you follow the instructions and go step by step, it's a piece of cake. Make to more mock up for the valvebody screws so everything goes back in where it belongs. Break time now, again.
By they way, 1 of the replaced parts was starting to get some wear.

 

Nice! Takevit for a spin yet? You may not notice it but good to have better seal all around on the accumulators etc.for longevity.

 

Well, it's in and it runs fine. I ain't going to lie, I was shitting bricks putting all back in. The kit itself is a walk in the park. Instructions are easy to read and the pictures are spot on. I will say I did find an error on the bolt size and the color code part. One set of bolts was labeled 25mm in red and 30mm in green, should be the other way around. My OCD ass triple and quadruple checked all the check balls, which didn't need to be replaced because from factory they aren't metal, and made sure all the plugs that I replaced were secure with their clips. One of the 4 accumulator pistons is a pain since it doesn't stay in place like the other 3, all thought the metal one does fall out, a bit of grease keeps it in place. The spring and check ball that goes in the case kept falling out since the grease only gave you so much time to work. I measured about 8-8.5 quarts that came out total. I still have to do a fluid level check. Also switched over to Valvoline Maxlife. When I was putting away the old parts, I noticed another part that was showing slight wear on it. I am at 47k miles, so wear does happen early on. Guess that's why those 2 parts that had wear are replaced with better ones.

Now as for the shifting. No noticeable difference to speak of. If there is, it's minor. I wasn't expecting anything, though, since what I think makes it shift better are the replacement of the springs in the 3 accumulator pistons. From the research I have done, the kit replaces problem parts for better ones and the actual better shifts come from the springs. I also added a high pressure Sonnax valve since the kit comes with a standard one. So, basically I just improved the longevity of the trans by replacing know failure parts.
Time wise. I started at 3pm and just finished now at 1am.

 

I don't recall from your earlier posts, but did this require any reaming? I think one of the bores gets worn faster and is often reamed, but some kits use a o-ringed piston instead of oversized bore. I'm usually a huge fan of shift kits if or no other reason than longevity and have done them on pretty much all of domestic vehicles that I have owned.

 

That was part of my research, also. My kit, as well as the Trans-Go kit comes with updated parts for the 2 parts that need to be reamed. Now from my understanding, there's no need to ream those 2 unless your trans is throughing a code. Both manuf offer a over sized valve. Both are a bit more complicated.To install the oversized valves you have to also buy a valvebody jig that Sonnax sells for $200. It's to keep the reamer in line with the bore. You also need a vise to hold the valvebody. It doesn't look complicated but still gut wrenching for someone whose never done it. Like I said only 2 of my valves had slight wear and the 2 that you ream were fine. Since I am at 47k, I figured get it done now instead of later. The zip kit was around $210 and the high pressure valve was like $30.

 

These are all the parts replaced. The 2nd pic is one of the parts that had some wear. That one is the B1 accumulator pistons. The updated one brings an O-ring and extra grooves for better lunrication. Cures delayed engagement, burnt clutches, forward slip &flare shifts. 3rd pic is the boost valve. That one I replaced with a high pressure one. That valve is explained here. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4452-line-pressure-booster-kit
The little plugs are now O-ring based for better seal. Here's all the info on the kit. https://www.sonnax.com/units/34-ab60e

 

were you throwing code, whats the reasoning for the kit?

 

I believe he did it as a preventative measure for the transmission.

 

Yup, what he said. ∆∆∆

 

Starter replaced, 6 hrs or so later over 2 days. I found a how to on YouTube showing to disconnect the solenoid and not jack up the engine. Worked like a charm.

If I had just put headers in I wouldn't have had to drill out and nutsert one of the heat shield bolts. Soon enough tho...

Also, Toyota and Denso no longer offer the "cold weather package" starter. So new one was smaller and easier to put back in.

 

6 hours to replace a starter when you have never done it before? How long now that you do know?

 

Well, I've done hundreds of starters, just not on this truck. I was a mechanic in my previous life.

If I didn't have ham hands and had a lift, 3-4 hrs likely.

 

Time for a built trans lol

 

I think we know where there's one ready to go...

 

he sold it lol

 

Dammit!

 

So, I

Ooops...

 

You can do it with long tubes in about 2 hours. As long as the manifold nuts don't give you trouble. Having an assortment of sockets extensions/wobble socket and cut down a 12mm box end to get around the shock tower. Most of the time is spent finessing that header back in and keeping the manifold gasket in place.

 

So I decided to calculate some data: Wheel Force (kinda like wheel torque, but calculated at one wheel) for OE Torque vs Supercharger Torque vs Tire size. Might cross post this on a few other threads, but maybe not. Then I made a chart, cuz those can be helpful. Hopefully...

 

Where did that happen? Out playing in the dunes?

 

Yea, no forward gears. It’ll crawl but any gas free revs. Reverse all good lol I’ve got an email out to level 10 see what they recommend for an upgrade

 

Those were my symptoms too. I described it as driving on ice in 2WD in terms of trying to move forward. I could eventually get up to speed on a hard and flat, but it took a while.

 

Did you have any symptoms before hand or just boom, no forward gears?

 

Sorry Rey, that sucks.

 

If you watch some of the vids he’s posted lately, it sounded to me like the transmission was shifting quite slowly. But maybe I am mistaken.

 

Nope zero symptoms, no noise, nothing

 

Nope no issues. @snivilous has the shifting dialed.

 

Is the oil nice and toasty? Solenoid failure SL2 or SLU? Reverse work?