General Supercharger Thread

Fwiw, Zuk mentioned the front diffs rarely needing bearings.

Text from Zuk while mine was being done.
"Now tapping the races back in with the new washer plates and by the way, the bearings are in very nice near new condition..,..... I don't expect to see worn out bearings hardly ever never in front 9-in clamshells... They only have 100 miles maybe a couple hundred miles on them due to the part-time nature"

 

i believe yours will be different if youve got the cat back where it bolts up the front part of the stock exhaust.
i have the rear cats removed and RIGHT at the downstream O2 i have a 2.5 to 3" reducer and its 3 all the way back from there

 

Biting tongue, I have SPD & no code

 

I’ve always heard these trucks are super sensitive with cats as far as throwing codes using anything but OEM, but no one seems to have an issue with these SPDs (maybe the bigger diamater helps)? I’m so pumped to hear how it sounds without the 2 sets of cats. I have always thought the sound was being held back from being truly awesome with all of my catbacks because of how much the stock cats muffle the sound.

 

it wasn't a long time then pop, its done it ever scine i went larger pipes

 

now thinking since its throwing an A/F code that would be the upstream O2 wouldnt it? could the O2 may be failing out?
becuase doesnt the downstream O2 only monitor the cat?

 

Correct

 

so do you think the up stream O2 is going out?

 

No idea swap them around if you're feeling froggy

 

Exhaust valve seat cracked.

Detected via leakdown.

 

so maybe bad gasket between header and exhaust flange?

 

what gasket is that called? its a ring that is in there

 

Thanks for the tip! So they can be reused easily without damaging them? By this logic, is all that’s really needed the mini install kit? Or is there a kit somewhere in between the mini and the master that may be necessary?
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-18979366-toyota-9-ifs-mini-install-kit.html

 

ok so ill try replacing the gasket ring and go from there. next will be upstream O2, after that no damn clue

 

I also remember reading that he reuses the factory ring gear bolts. But I would verify that before accepting that as fact.

 

He did both of my diffs, but for LSD and elocker install, not gears. I went back and looked and he reused both ring gear bolt sets with red loctite.

 

Exhaust flange gasket or doughnut gasket, is what I have seen it called. Hard to keep up with all mods, but do you have aftermarket headers? Aftermarket heads usually dont have a gasket. It's a ball socket type of seal.

 

When I did my auburn lsd my local shop said it's perfectly acceptable to reuse the ring bolts as long as you cleaned up the threads and used red loctite.

 

When I did the Auburn 6 or 7 years ago, my installer was able to reuse all of the bearings and shims and it laid out just about perfect - well enough that I haven't had an issue in 130k miles of decently hard use. The truck had ~80k miles on it when the Auburn was installed. The trick was getting them off without damaging them. This go 'round, I'll replace them all. I'd imagine the fronts would be much easier to reuse, as noted above, because they don't see as many miles (unless you are @e30cabrio and drive around in AWD all the time). I'm sure my front diff has several thousand - if not 10,000 - miles of use on it.

Also reused ring gear bolts without issue. I don't recall which MFG/Retailer it is that actually recommends reusing the factory bolts because 'they are stronger than the aftermarket bolts available'. I want to say it was ECGS, but I may be mistaken.

I can't imagine you poor souls running around with a SC'd motor and open rear diff...

 

no, stock headers. stock down past first cat. removed rear cats earlier this year. right after the downstream O2 i went 3" back.
i went to autozone and got the doughnut one. maybe the old one is starting to let some out and causing the code

 

Oh, any stock front diff guys regearing...consider adding the ECGS bushing to replace the axle roller bearing. They're a super common cause of noise in the front ends of these trucks.

*Edit* I've got the R&R tools around here somewhere if anyone wanted to borrow them. Eaton uses a bushing in their elockers.

 

@pursuit2550

Who’s the second company besides ECGS?

 

I tried looking just now and couldn't find it. Maybe it's just ECGS. I haven't really done a deep dive into looking so I just did a broad search. I saw some complete 3rd members but it could also have been for the 1st Gen.

 

Currently at work we have a 24 F150 XLT CC V8. Went out to lunch today and my friend stepped on it to get on the highway, holy crap. That thing is a beast. So I look up the specs and 400hp/410tq 13.9 in the 1/4. I never knew those trucks were that fast stock. Just thought I share since I have never been in a new one.

What does a SC tundra run in the 1/4? Stock is like 15.

 

Depends on mods and weight of course. 12.8-13.7ish I’d say is a good range. My best 1/8th was 8.30 @84 which translates to 12.9ish. When I had less mods it was more like a 13.6 1/4. I’m sure on stock tires and extra weight removed it could be a lot better since it weighs 6500lbs. Figure removing even 500 lbs is worth another .5 second in the 1/4. F150s are quick though being lightweight aluminum and the 10 speed.

 

I guess I have to be cautious of those trucks then. Still amazing for a 400hp@crank vs 540hp@crank . Also noticed redline is 7k, wow. I guess the 10speed helps too.

 

A supercrew 4x4 XLT v8 f150 is literally 5100 lbs based on my googling. 5300 max. That’s a LOT lighter of a truck for sure.

 

Wow. My RCSB is all of 5280 lbs. Not much extra gear.