5.7L Transmission Cooler Kits

I wouldn't call that good enough, not even from my house. YMMV

Which way is front on that photo? If you need the rear to drop, dry deflating the tires to see if that is enough. If that is a driveway, you can also attempt to use the grade in your driveway to your advantage. Otherwise, if those don't work, really wide planks or you can try using leveling blocks (most commonly used by the RV community).

 

Following for when they’re back in stock. I would love to get my hands on one of these

 

No kit - just ordered the parts. All arrived fast except the pipes. Last one took some digging since it was ordered just before the nationwide dealer system takeover - so when I called to ask for my part they said they needed a part number to look for it - found it 10 mins later by looking thru their racks - computers were pf no use. This could be why Gen Cooling is behind on orders.

I added mine on yesterday - 4 OEM parts + a haydon 699.

Bottom line - easy install - test drove - the overall change is about 35-44 degrees cooler under All circumstances. Before the highest during repeated SG was 248 now the highest is 209 - which can cool down to 185 in about 1 minute of idling. Now that is transmission cooling like never before on my Sequndra - woohoo.

Adding in parts - cost list

I used the attached for the part nums plus its good to visualize the setup. The cost breakdown was thermostat 142 - pipe 120 - thermo hoses to pipe (both) 70 - o-rings (2) 8 - haydon cooler 46 hose & clamps 15 1.5 rts trans fluid 12 Total $413

Took about 4 hrs total to install - test for leaks. So glad I did this. Upset with Toyota for labeling the vehicle with a "Tow Package" that does not include a real trans cooler.


https://autoparts.villagetoyota.com...NER&model_year=2010&model_year_code=2010:8648

 

pin the thermostat & run that rig @ 170degrees.

 

How do you pin the thermostat?

 

Well I wasn't quick enough when I got my notice that the kits were in stock and so I'm back on the list No problem selling at $1300 per kit

 

Got my notice and cooler kit is ordered from GCS.....oh yeah

 

Now the work begins
Set up the OBD sensor and app 7/23
Mounted the brackets and fittings on the cooler 7/24

 

Question..

Are you guys using the Sparks parts 2017 tundra part with the thermostat and external cooler OR one or the other?

 

Someone else correct me, but <=2018 are the parts. Better aftermarket coolers are available if you are willing to fab your own bracket, else stock will work and return everything to pre-2019 status.

 

I dont understand you question.

you need to use a an aftermarket cooler because the 2018 and under used a section of the AC condenser for cooling.

 

AND that's why the forum is so great. I was 1/2 right, and that almost makes the 80% rule.

 

Look up GCS AT cooler kit in this forum

 

Just buy the parts from a dealer - thermostat - to/from pipe - 2 custom toyo hoses - cooler of your choice - some connectiong hose and clamps. Attach the cooler directly to the AC condensor and yes your cooler kit will come with cushion pads to protect cooler and condensor. This will cost sub $500 maybe 450 is you shop well. Direct attachment to the condensor yields Best cooling - mouning 4" or more away reduces cooling by about 30-40% then under heavy SG it may need an aux fan to help out. Luck deciding.

 

Can you explain this more?
If its mounted like the GCS kit and not directly on the condensor, why is it not getting good cooling?
thanks,
X

 

If mounted there and its still not enough then I would add an Aux fan over it. Use a 5 way relay. The signal wire goes to the Ignition via an Add a Fuse connection and the constant hot can go to any free 20amp+ source (I used the trailer sway control for example). Using this your rig should run 170 in most situations with temporary spikes to 200 under the most extreme SG situations yet it will cool down to mid 180s in seconds after speed is stabilized. Luck.

 

Question: what are you all running temps wise after the install - drove truck about 10 hours home from vacation and exited the highway. My scan gauge 3 was set to alarm at 210* and the converter (I think) temp alarm went off while sitting in traffic on side roads. Usually the two temps (pan and converter) are within 2-4* of each other and did very well while on highway. I have driven to work etc prior to my trip and had no alarms.
I checked the fluid level and all good and no leaks. Is 210* ok and just due to the long drive maybe?
Thanks in advance,
X

 

My can go 220+ in hot weather when pedaling hard. Way better then 270+ in chilly weather when not pedaling at all.

 

I drove mine mid-aug (100+ outside temps all the way) for 14 hours - cruising 75-80 the trans tc (higher of two) would be at 170 - during multiple stop-go lights in towns it would climb to 190 for a few seconds then back down again.

I've got a fan going on the trans cooler. Without it the temps would be about 20 or more degrees hotter in all cases.

I think 210 is ok for momentary temps (like in multiple stop/go's)- not constant cruising but that's my opinion only.

 

I've seen 210+ TC on a few occasions mainly going up hills in D then I slap over to S4 or S5 and it cools back down to pan temp very rapidly. My question with the vertical mounted GCS cooler is that the trans fluid out line is connected to lower port of radiator and trans in is connected to the top. I was always led to believe for thermal efficiency vice versa like engine cooling system. I called them about that and they said trans out connected at the bottom is better for removing air?

 

Can you show us how you mounted the Hayden?

 

Which shop did it? I live in RI, and wouldn't mind the drive to have someone with experience do it right. Thanks!

 

Yes. In vertically mounted oil coolers hot fluid flows upwards.

 

Fairfield Automatic transmission in Fairfield CT. Ask for Scott

 

I'm getting my wires crossed.
Are you saying that the GCS cooler instructions are correct in that the transmission out/GCS oil cooler-in is at the bottom of the vertically mounted cooler, and the transmission-in/GCS cooler-out is at the top of the vertically mounted cooler? Or the opposite?

 

Hot/in - at the bottom, cold/out - at the top.

 

Finished installing mine today. It was a bit of a PIA. Had to remove my Valhalla plates and some of the tight areas really suck. My hard lines mounting seemed to be a bit further apart than the holes and took a long time getting it put in. But done and ready to see the lower temps. Oh and still need to put the plates back on. Tomorrow's problem.

 

Great job. It’s well worth the time, money, and effort (and sore body aches).