What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Dropped the truck off for an alignment. This guy is one of the best in Amarillo. Hopefully it'll fix my wandering and tire cupping.

Quick question, will tires that have started cupping wear back to normal? Or is that it, they're that way till you buy new ones?

 

I've had luck swapping cupped fronts to the rear to true them up.

 

I swapped them before T2S this year, but noticed the fronts starting a bit. Hopefully I caught it in time. That's the thing that sucks about not driving the truck every day. It'll take a year to see any change.

 

I was gonna say that, but I remembered I can barely spin them in the wet.

 

Try some lube?

​

 

Are they that good a tire?? Because I can barely keep her hooked up when its wet. Hard on the throttle on a small incline the ass end nearly got in front of me.

 

When it's wet is he only time I can break the tires loose on the 03, unless I throw her into a curve and smash the skinny pedal. Then she'll light em up...
I'm hoping 4.10's will resolve the lack of bunouts.

 

They're pretty good, but I think it's more of a "33s on a 333k mile truck" issue. I'm still on stock gears too. Hell, I floored it in loose dirt and barely spun em halfway through 1st.

 

Even with my new tires, my truck is jumpy with initial throttle input. Won’t spin em in a straight line, but easily breaks loose when turning or when wet.

 

^ Me on Saturdays

Me on Sundays talking to wife: "You know my tires are getting pretty worn out. And if I need new tires, I really should go ahead do the suspension and everything. No sense in getting tires that are too small for a lift."

 

Same, except it will get loose going straight on wet.
30.5 dia/295k/3.91dif

 

Picked up the truck from alignment. This is as good as it gets I guess.

Before



After



So I guess I'm getting some new UCAs. At the same time, dude said my inner tie rod on the passenger side is going bad. Not enough to warrant replacement right away, but enough to give a little wiggle in the wheel. The truck did feel better at 65 so far.

New plan of action:
New JBA/Eibach/SPC uppers
New OEM inner and outer tie rods

That's about it. Ugh. I had a feeling it wouldn't fix anything. Maybe there's something else wrong that I missed? He said everything else was fine.

 

On my old stock tires, I could break em loose super easy in a straight line. One quick jab of the throttle at speeds under ~10mph and they’d spin right up.

New tires are wayyyyyy better. Still can spin the inside tire when accelerating around a corner, even with the rear sway, but a lot more throttle is needed. Not sure if this is due to the tire compound or the 1” diameter increase.

 

People mover bed would be awesome.

During the spring last year I popped off my bedcover and hauled around all the friends to various parties and bars near campus. I don’t drink, so I was cool with driving everyone around. We’d put four people in the cab and 4-6 people in the bed, it was a ton of fun.

I doubt you’d have space for more than 6 seats, it got pretty cramped back there with 5 or 6 guys. 8 people is also pretty close to max payload.

Edit: it’s legal to ride in the bed of a truck in Wisconsin if the rider is over 16 and seated.

 

Anyone recommend the best dealer to order lower ball joints for my 2007 Sequioa? Any coupons would be helpful! Im currently deployed and my truck is with my buddy ready to take them scary Moogs LBJ's off. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Given the recent flurry of complaints about the UBJ that come with the Eibach/SPC uppers, I'd probably recommend going JBA.

But then again, knowing what you intent to do long term, the SPC are going to give you the added adjustment you need. Maybe go with the sealed (non-greasable) UBJ for the SPC kit. @des2mtn posted more info here in reply to someone else.

My takeaway, w/o looking (which may be a big mistake) is the sealed ones are more reliable with less play, and possibly even less noisy.

 

Man, that's a good guy right there! I was just like you, always driving everyone around between bars in my truck in college, including in the bed, except I did drink--I just also had a truck.

 

30.4 dia (215/85-16)/220k/4.10dif. Tires will chirp leaving a stop sign on a straight dry road. If i remove the tailgate, i’m betting the chirps will be louder.

With my other BFG AT 265/75/16 tires installed, AND when i had my bed completely removed from the frame, the tundra would leave two separate smokey contrails across a dry intersection. I feel at thought the 4.10 gears are a decent do-all gearing for the original bone stock base model 245/70-16 tires. The 4.10 is still tall enough for 75mph cruising down the interstate with zero load in the bed, yet at the same time able to tow and haul 1~2 tons. The only reason i went to the 4.10 was because i found them at a U-Pull-It yard for $26 for each 3rd member (they had a 75% off sale). For what i do, i’d still prefer either a 4.30 with the little 245/70-16 tires, or a 4.56 for my larger 265/75/16’s.

 

What UCA's are you running now?

 

Alignment shops been telling me for years I need to replace my inner tie rods. Fuck em, they ain't broken.

 

One of my inners was really sloppy. Really tightened up the steering. @bmf4069 werent the inners included with the fresh rack?

 

Totally agree. Trailer is a much better option for just about everything involving hauling.

Aluminum flatbed could keep weight down and make transporting large things straightforward. Maybe even tent camp on top.

I’m on a streak of only NA beerskis since 9/12/23 so I’ve passed the one year mark. Hence, it would be cool to drive drunk F’s around.

An 8’ bed allows for more space, 4 per side would be 2’ a person, anyone wider than that needs to go exercise if they want to fit

Then a lower bunk and upper bunk, comfortable sleeping for 4, the layout makes total sense. Just has to be done with metal and then insulated big time and some ventilation and maybe mild HVAC. I do wish someone made a platform / pod they got certified at 80mph or something then it’d just be a matter of properly securing to the frame.

Thinking out loud, 8 full grown adults w decent mix of ladies, maybe 1200-1300, that’s within spec for payload on these things and leaves room for driver and added weight of the pod. Though ditching bed and shell would shave some too and offset some of the pod weight. Roll cage w fiberglass should be sufficient w 5 point harnesses, otherwise a crash and roll likely ends poorly if bodies aren’t secured even if the pod survives.

It’s in the right general ballpark at least.

But a 12 passenger van is likely far cheaper.

 

Lift on the early trucks gets minimal caster. But where are the adjusters set underneath?

Yeah, it's ok. Your tire costs will get you in the end.

Shoulda been.

 

Freedoms. I was hoping they shifted the ball joints to get a bit more caster, but I'm starting to think they're stock, but tubular.

 

Yup. New outer as well. But seeing how someone found out the outers Detroit Axle sells are just moogs, I'm questioning what the inners are. I'm sensing another front suspension rebuild coming soon.

I can get some pics tomorrow if you want.

 

2002 AC LTD 4x4 4.7 L
I needed the key code for my brother's 2002 Tundra so I can have a used glove box lock re-keyed to match his master key. He's like the 4th or 5th owner, so he never got the key code tag. He also travels a lot for business, so it would be tough to get him into the dealer with the title, etc to get the code from them. As shown in the video below, Toyota puts the key code on the passenger side door lock cylinder (or driver's side if there is no passenger side lock).

I found another video to help me deconstruct the Gen1 Tundra door.

Here is the result of tearing it all apart...


...and here is the removed door handle with lock cylinder.


I was able to see the 5-digit code without removing the cylinder.

The glove box is scheduled for delivery today. Hopefully, I can get the handle with lock cylinder extracted from the used glove box and over to the locksmith before they close for the weekend. Do we have anything on this forum that shows how to swap out the handles on these glove boxes?

 

Time for new brake pads on the tundra. Is powerstop still the favorite?

 

I used Advics (OEM supplier) and I was generally quite happy. Maybe the Powerstop are better at grabbing? I dunno. But the Advics pads, I looked up the right kit here, came with everything, shims pre-glued, all springs, you pull em out of the box, make sure the screamer is facing up on the outboard side, and slap it all together. Bought from RockAuto, but other vendors may sell.

 

2002 AC LTD 4x4 4.7 L
Earlier this year, my brother and I installed a new seat belt buckle for the driver side. As I've been getting it set up for my use, the seat belt light started flashing. I took the seat back out the other night and discovered that the seat ran over the new seatbelt wire and broke the connection.


So, I cut out the damaged wire and opened up the leads on both sides for soldering.

After a moderate job soldering the wires together, I insulated them from each other with electrical tape and then shrouded the whole thing in shrink tubing.


I THINK I got the cord routed out of the seat track this time and then reinstalled the seat. Presto! No more blinking seatbelt light.