General Supercharger Thread

It s an upgrade kit to some of the parts that are know to fail or wear out prematurely in our transmissions. They are not oversized. It's a plug and play kit. From what I have read, there is no need to do the oversized parts if you are having no issues. As for firmer lockup and such, I dont know. My trans only has 45k on it and no issues so far, so I would thing I wouldn't notice anything special but won't have to worry about the specific issues that the kit fixes. Here's a brief description from Sonnax site on the kit.

Sonnax Zip Kit A750E-A761E-ZIP targets the root cause of multiple complaints by sealing the critical circuit pressure losses in Toyota/Lexus A750, A760 and A960 series valve bodies. The kit contains uniquely designed parts to prevent the loss of pressures within the main line, clutch apply control and lockup control circuits. The kit also seals multiple circuits known to suffer from end plug leakage or poor checkball sealing. No special tools are required for installing these parts.

The Zip Kit quick guide provides clear and easy instructions on one sheet to get the unit sealed up and back on the road fast. In addition to general rebuilding tips and technical information, the technical booklet included in this kit contains vacuum testing information and locations at other key areas of the valve body.

 

Funny, I was just looking at some info from Tom Woods driveshaft the other day; they noted that they don't balance shafts past 3200 RPM or so because that's as fast as their machine spins. Curious, I decided to do some math and figure out driveshaft speed with my stock tire size and factory gears as it's not uncommon for highway passing speeds to reach 95 MPH... or more...

70 MPH is almost 3200 driveshaft RPM.

95 MPH is almost 4300 driveshaft RPM.

120 MPH is over 5400 driveshaft RPM!!

And for the 5.13 crowd, 120 MPH would be almost 6500 driveshaft RPM...

Eeegatts!

 

No Reserve: 25k-Mile 2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4

 

Daaang

 

Wow, already sold twice before, over $30k

 

What's the general consensus on the wiring for the DW 340 pump in our baskets? Should I hardware the relay kit or am I okay with factory wiring? I'm doing the fuel pump swap today...

 

If not FFV I would just swap the pump and send it.

 

Badass! Done! The biggest step is the start! Far easier than I anticipated! New o-rings, new filter sock, swapped pump and reinstall!

 

As @snivilous stated its all good. Ran Aeromotive, AEM and Walbro 450 on stock wiring. I recently ran the larger gauge wiring but probably didn't need to.
I forgot but does the Toyota plug fit the DW?

 

Has anyone found the limits of the DW 340 yet, as in they could not achieve the AFR they want with a smaller pulley?

 

i'm maxing mine out at 99% DC with the 340. seeing 11.0 as the leanest at redline
that's with stock 2650 inlet and dw650 inj and 76 pulley

 

Since finding out that the sniv pulleys are essentially 5mm smaller than the Harrop pulleys from size to size based on how Sniv vs Harrop is measuring them, it makes sense why you’re using more fuel since you basically have a 70-71mm equivalent Harrop pulley. That’s a lot of air at sea level. I’d still say that’s not proof the fuel pump is not cutting it however, it could just as easily be your injectors are too small. I’ve basically maxed my 650s out at a higher fuel pressure even with a pulley 5mm-7mm larger than yours.

 

so much air lol more than I was anticipating, though not unhappy about it.
I Agree it's not confirmation that the FP is tapped, but I was leaning out early with the mag provided 255 and now have enough fueling with the dw340 FP on the dw650 INJ.
I see it as being pretty close to max considering 650's should tap around 340/350 at 43.5. Pushing more with it boost referenced but that's accounted for in the AFR obviously.

 

Yes to the plug, at least if you get the 340 kit that says it's usable with the Tundra. 100% plug and play with zero modifications, though the pump does come with a plug with flying leads in the event it needs to be adapted.

 

Victor did a series of videos with various pumps. I believe he also did injectors. He also did a video with aftermarket fuel lines.

 

Yes, DW plugs directly into OEM basket harness! Thanks again for the suggestion!

 

Yeah, that was before the DW340 was on the market. It seems to be the best performer for its size and plug and play ability available to date. On second thought, it may have been on the market but he didn’t test it in that video.

 

i thought you went with bigger injectors over the 650s?

 

no sir, 650cc injectors.
I would have gone 1000 but didn't like the janky prospeed harness and heard of drivability issues. Can't confirm, but it was enough to deter me.

 

I have the DW & Five-0 650's which in my truck's oddness are running at supernaturally low DC (per Sniv)

 

Last week I got rid of my mid pipe setup that had one gutted cat and a 200 cell metal cat. I wanted to get the gutted cat out of there and have a nice straight 3 inch to the new heavy material 400 cell cat. After seeing the video's about velocity and keeping things flowing after the collector I wanted to put the cat a the end of the midpipe. Glad I did as one of the metal cats was buggered up. At least the fuel smell is gone. Quieted it down a little at idle but still roars when on it. Oh and I ditched the BBQ paint for some rustoleum high heat ceramic paint. Haha someday stainless but what I got works...
It's held up well for the past 12years.

 

what size exhaust are you running?

 

JBA LT's 1 7/8 collectors. 3 inch true duals with x-pipe. One of DD's first creations for the Tundra.

 

post a vid. although ill be going with different mufflers but i still like to hear 3".

 

HP=

 

thats a no brainer

 

Hmmm, I know the solution, but I don't like it...upon swapping out my fuel pump basket, the float wasn't perfectly lined up or at the same position as my OEM basket. I bent the bar as close to the OEM as I could and felt okay about it...but now, though my efficiency seems to have increased on the DIC, the fuel level is far lower to get to the "normal" levels I've seen at certain mileage intervals...do I need to pull the damn basket again and bend the float arm a bit more? Argh! Is there a way it can be tuned more accurately without dropping the tank? Other than that annoyance, I smile everytime I pop that skinny pedal down to the floor!

 

Did you swap the tank? Why would the float arm have to get modified?

 

I bought an "extra" fuel pump basket to swap everything over easier/faster...plumbed the new pump in, put it back together and upon dropping the tank, I placed my OEM setup in my drain bin and threw in the modified basket in the tank and re-installed it. Just in case I really messed something up, I have the OEM fuel pump basket to throw back in as/if needed...I like having extra stuff I'll never use again...

...it may have been a function of being shipped the OEM basket to modify...