What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Changed the water pump, thermostat and coolant. Coolant was overdue for change, and I figured I would change out original WP and T'stat due to mileage (165k). After removal I could see just a trace of pink crusties on the WP so glad I did it now.

 

Last year I put on a trd rock warrior bumper from car part dot com and I can’t get rid of this streaking. Should I be painting this bumper?

 

If nobody answers you here I would ask the guys in this thread as well. https://www.tundras.com/threads/ask-the-detailer.18408/

 

Cerakote.

 

Like you I bought the same one, for the "Rock Warrior". The bumper came primed(black), ready for paint. So, yes it should be painted/powder coated etc.. for long term durability.

 

Thanks for the input online it says it comes power coated black, its not very thick like traditional powder coat.
https://www.carparts.com/details/To...umper/2013/SR5/8_Cyl_5-dot-7L/REPT823902.html

 

Looks like something has etched into the powder coat/paint. Assuming you've tried polishing with some compound. May be time for some paint or even "Line-X like coating" depending on the look you want.

 

Front seats in my 07 CM are getting a little tired looking. Not bad yet, but it won't be long. I don't plan on putting Katskinz on any time soon, so what seat cover system have you guys used to make it look pretty? I like the looks of Carhart but I hear they are tough to put on. Thanks.

 

Got this damage fixed, before and after shots:








Had them leave the emblems off, since I've been meaning to swap the chrome ones with these black ones anyway...now I have a good reason to finally do it.

 

Curious how much a body shop charged you for this?

 

I had quotes as high as $2,400, but there's a local shop I know of that does good work with warranty, that charged $1,000. That was with some extra touch-up work thrown in though. To just fix the damaged part he quoted me $600. There were some poorly touched up scratches on the driver door and front fender that the previous owner did with a paint pen and they looked horrible. So the $1k price included fixing all those and blending into the adjacent panels for a perfect color match.

I'm so happy with the work and the value that I plan to take my '03 4Runner in next since the clear coat on the roof is pretty much gone.

I really like the owner of this shop and can't say enough good things about him. He truly loves what he does and takes pride in it. When I dropped my truck off, he was showing me photos of the project he worked extra hours on over the weekend because he got to paint a couple of classic Jeeps for a customer and he was excited about them. The customer had brought them to him all the way from San Antonio to Houston. I definitely need to post about this place in the thread about good local shops...

 

That is amazing. So good to find people who enjoy their work and take pride in it. Really makes it easy to give them the business. Wish I lived closer to Houston because I also have some paint pen cover ups from the previous owner that look awful, and a dent in my rear quarter panel. I've seen quotes around me as high as $3500. No thanks I'll deal with a dent and choose more mods first.

 

Blacks cool, where'd you get that?

 

Found them on eBay. This is the product link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2832195002...alioLedQau&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The pics on the listing suck as the lighting makes it look like a matte silver, but they are in fact black.

 

Restored my headlights and fog lights today

 

Looks great!

 

Now time to debadge the truck!

 

Pics are a little dark but my truck is finally ready for some serious towing! Yup. Certified Rock Warrior tow pig. Lmao.

 

Started a serpentine belt job that turned into an oil change because I am lazy and don't want to drop the skid plate again a month from now when it's due. I ordered a Gates serpentine belt kit and the tensioner looks cheaply made. Sending it back for a dayco kit. The factory tensioner had dayco cast into it.



Unrelated, but does Anyone know what this means? Located on the front axle actuator

I know that A.D.D. stands for Automatic Disconnecting Differential. But "only oil"? Is there some way to lubricate the actuator?

Also, how often are you folks changing diff and Tcase oil? I did mine at 50,000 and I'm now at 64,000. I'd say I still have some time.

 

I changed my diff and t-case oil today, it was a little overdue, last done 35k ago. Super easy to do job, the only wrinkle this time was that the crush washer on the t-case drain plug would not come off the threads, so I just put it back in with the same one on it and will monitor for drips.

 

I’m running 75w90 full synthetic diff fluid in all diffs/trans case, I believe the book says 60k on intervals and that’s why I’m doing

 

It’ll be fine, might seep a bit but won’t leak out

 

What oil brands did you use? I see some of the 2.5 gen members running Ravenol in their transfer case?

 

That may be influenced by them having a different transfer case.

 

I use the Lucas brand, personally.

 

I used this in the front diff and t-case (I understand t-cases from 2014 and up require a different type)
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-90-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svg/


And I used this in the rear. I have 5.29 gears with 37s and a rear locker.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-140-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svo/

 

Made up some stumpy uprights for my Adarac bed rack. Next is welding up a hole in the frame and then the four giant rusted out holes in my bed.

 

Super nice! You could totally sell those

 

Just took my first decent trip in the tundra this weekend. 300+ mile round trip from incline village NV to mammoth lakes CA. Loved having the V8 power! And averaged 18.5mpg for the trip.