What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Woah. Those look beefy.

 

They are, I like how the lbj stud is recessed into a pocket, so it’s almost got its own built in skid

 

New OE Toyo LBJs or does it come with LCA?

 

I found some used moogs on FB marketplace………

when I first got the truck I put oem LBJs on, I’ve got maybe 25-30k miles on them. I inspected them and cleaned up the boot sealing surface before I landed them in the lca

 

Im not sure if the 1st line was a joke? lol. But used OE is cool. Im terrified of my Moogs 30K later

 

Anyone get valve cover gaskets (and drive belt) shipped folded/wadded up like this? Two sets of VC gaskets so 4 total (2 for BestgenTundra and 2 for 1st gen Tacoma), along with the intake gaskets / spark plug tubes / bolts, washers, LBJ dust protectors, PCV, oil filter, etc. all in this bag. Seems like the VC gaskets should have shipped separately with the intake gaskets in a flat box.

 

Yeah I was just joshin you. I don’t know if I’d buy used oe either, my safety isn’t worth a 50$ savings

 

Replaced the OEM pump pictured with a new OEM. Works perfectly now. From what I've read on here the little curved (words are escaping me atm) area in the picture that is darker in spots is what was the issue. Haven't tested for difference in different places on the strip to verify but it's not stalling when I get to just below 1/4 tank of tank before the gas light ever comes in now. Btw, gas cans nowadays suck for putting gas in vehicles. Did they outlaw the accordion style nozzles on plastic gas cans?
Probably a good reason to carry a Jerry can aboard.

 

Yes gas cans have sucked for quit a few years now (thanks again ca) you can buy the regular plastic nozzles and vents on the zon for cheap

 

These work well and they sell an extension for a few bucks that makes fueling vehicles pretty easy.
https://nospill.com/collections/gasoline

 

I purchased a pre-owned OEM skid plate off eBay, cleaned it up, painted it black on the bottom, white on top (easier to tell if anything is leaking). Installed a new positive battery terminal, and repainted the roof matte black. My truck is oxidized and the roof was rusting. I sanded off the rust, cleaned it, masked off the areas I didn't want painted, and painted the roof black. Once totally dry, I will clear coat it. My truck is old, and has seen better days. Just need it to continue lasting.

 

Spent the last 2 days washing the RV, sealing what needed sealing. hotels suddenly seem attractive. makes Tundra washing seem simple.

 

Went to the local junkyard and grabbed a spare CV Axle. Not only did i want a spare to have when offroading, but i wanted to learn how to remove and reinstall one. So the junkyard was the perfect place to practice that.

Im not really sure what the axle nut torque was but ended up using a jack i found on the ground under my breaker bar to break it free. Any one know what that nut is supposed to be torqued to?

Also, on the FGT i removed the CV Axle from, i noticed the LBJ had a zerk fitting as well as the outer tie rod, never seen that before. Kinda cool


Also, upgraded my rear behind the seat storage. Should be stronger and hold some more stuff than before.


Also, gonna be removing my diff drop kit and going back to stock bolts. I have the OEM bolts coming in the mail tomorrow, was curious what these are supposed to be torqued to for the front OEM diff.

 

Is that "hub nut" the torque for the cv axle nut? 83 ft/lbs? The video i watched said it was 103 ft/lbs.

Also is that diff front mounting cushion x chassis frame the diff bolts im changing? 101 ft/lbs then?

EDIT: Mustve misheard in the video, because according to you guys its 173 ft/lbs for that lock nut

 

I believe drive shaft lock nut is the CV nut. I think the hub nuts are actually the lug nuts.

 

@oscardog86

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Hub nut is the lugs, 83ftlbs
Axle nut is “lock nut” on the diagram, 173ftlbs

 

Hub nut is bang it on with the impact, IMO. Never had a problem. Smart move getting a junkyard axle because OEM used is so much better than my NAPA axles which I replace every 2 or 3 years. That cool zerk on the ball joint is aftermarket. If I saw one on any of mine I would yank it off and replace it with OEM LBJ.

 

How long did it last?

 

A little bit over six years, can't tell you how many miles off the top of my head. Plan is to reinstall the Magnaflow and old O2 sensor once I pass, then reinstall the Walker again in two years when I have to test again.

 

Thanks! I'm coming up on emissions and the cheap ebay ones I used are terrible.

 

Got the truck alignment done today; there still are good people in this world. I left a 40$ tip taped to the shifter, it didn’t get taken, and I got 60$ knocked off the bill for being in the local 4r group. @assassin10000 what say you?
And it wasn’t that easy, I have another page of trials and tribulations.

 

Holy crap. How’d you get caster that high? Is it the aftermarket upper control arms that provide it?

For me, paying the guy an extra $40 would allow an extra 15 minutes mucking around with it only to say it’s impossible.

 

Someone on here had like 3.2 caster recently on OEM suspension. It made me want to go back to the "Toy / Lex Overlanding" shop that did my alignment and have some words with the shop manager who refused to take my caster deep into the 2s.

 

Yeah the solo arms move the lbj 1” forward. He was saying my rear passenger side frame might be bent a bit because he couldn’t get where he wanted with that back one. One of my front cams was def locked in when I tried to remove and I know that was an “excuse” last time but no big deal, I saw they weren’t BSing about that

 

I think the lack of off-road specialty shops and service says a lot about the Northeast in my area especially. They just don’t care. They could have the latest and greatest Hunter machines and nobody knows or cares how to use it, they all adjust it the same way it was done 50 years ago.

I shouldn’t be so negative though. If they have relatively new gear (less than 15 years old) at the schools, hopefully one of the new graduates know how to use that stuff. Trick is to find out who’s employing them.

 

3.2 on stock at stock ride height, maybe. Definitely with SPC, JBA, TC, etc. upper arms.

 

Does it drive weird with caster that high? I've heard too much caster can cause the truck to become unstable at high speed over big bumps and I've experienced this a few times I think. There is a huge pot hole on I-40 that I've hit twice, and for a brief moment it feels like I don't have control of the steering. Darkness is the one that mentioned this issue. My caster is closer to 3.0 though.

 

That was ridiculous. I remember getting 2nd hand anger from this when you mentioned it. Fuck that shop.