Overhaul Efforts

Okay, so first post, but it's going to be a journey. I just changed the rear shocks and did a compression test. Trying to see if I need to tear this thing completely down. I'll be doing an oil pressure test tomorrow as there's a bit of a weep coming from the crank seal/oil pump/front of oil pan region. I'll post that tomorrow. My compression results are as follows

Cylinder : PSI
1: 172.5
2: 182.5
3: 150
4: 180
5: 147.5
6: 135
7: 180
8: 180

According to the Hayne's manual, as long as the lowest is within 75% of the highest, it may be in spec, just seems like 135psi is a bit on the low end. I did add a little oil to the spark plug hole (top of cylinder) and very minor compression changes (about 5psi to cylinder 6), so it doesn't sound like it's a ring, but it may be. Being it's got 160k, just wanted to get an idea if these are typical numbers with this mileage.

I'm going to replace all the spark plugs and coil packs (1 is cracked, and several seem to possibly be original).

On the hunt for some leaf springs as well, as it seems a bracket that wraps around the leafs is bent a bit, but still holding in there.

Notes:

Parts I've replaced:

Engine Bay:

• PCV Hose (P/N 12261-50070) HOSE, VENTILATION, N

Suspension:

Front:​

• Bilstein 4600 Coilovers
• Moog Sway Bar Endlink

Rear:​

• ATS Stock Leaf Springs w/ Shackles
• Bilstein 4600 Rear Shocks

​

Parts I need to replace:
Engine Bay:

Engine In:​

• Spark Plugs
• Ignition Coils
• Fuel injector o-rings and nylon washer?
• Intake Plenum gasket
• Intake Manifold gasket
• Engine Wiring Harness? (Note: Current harness looks dried out and brittle. So far, only wiring insulation has been affected, but this may need to be done the next 5 years.)
• Timing Belt Kit
• Hydraulic Tensioner
• Accessory Belt
• Power Steering Pump rebuild kit
• Head Gasket
• Head Bolts

Engine out:​

• Oil Pump
• Oil Pan Gasket

Suspension:

• Upper Ball Joints
• Lower Ball Joints
• Wheel Stud
• Lug Nutz

Interior:

Rear Window:​

• Rear Back Glass Motor (P/N 85710-0C050) MOTOR ASSEMBLY POWER WINDOW
• Rear Back Glass Regulator (P/N 69087-35020) BACK DOOR POWER WINDOW REGULATOR SUB-ASSEMBLY

 

Might want to replace valve cover gaskets (OEM or Felpro) and PCV valve.

 

Also, since buying the truck I've replaced:
Hood struts
Bilstein B6 4600 rear shocks

Things I need to do:
Front suspension (creaks)
✓Ball joint check (no play at all, look relatively newer, DEFINITELY at 200k mark)
Rear leaf springs with bushings (on the way)
Alignment
Address the sound system (I think this is preventing the rear window from rolling down, also go with something with Apple Play)
Transmission oil change
Grease everything with a zerk fitting underneath
Change the front and back brakes (thinking PowerStop Z26)
Bleed brake fluid
Bleed power steering system
Address rattle at the instrument panel
Take a look at the clips for the main cluster (where the A/C controls are, it looks like it's glued in)
There's more to come...

Things I've noticed:
Timing belt looks decently new and I was told it was changed about 60k miles ago, a newer thermostat housing and water pump somewhat confirms this
Rear tires are worn pretty unevenly, haven't checked the fronts
Oil wasn't too bad, was change about 5k miles

 

I'll do that tomorrow, as I got the VC gasket in the mail today. I'm assuming the valve cover gasket could cause somewhat of a leak if it's plasticized? Is that the correct logic?

 

Leak at front: Often cam seals. Total fucking bitch to do on the VVTi V8 you and I have for the '05-'06. A lot of times can be shored up with a quality non-magic-in-bottle product like ATP's AT-205.

Valve covers also notorious for leaking, either at the side of the head, or at the half-moon plugs in the back of the head because some prior dumbass didn't bother to do them properly when changing the VC gaskets, or at the front corners of the camp tower where you need to clean well and FIPG before reinstalling the covers. Instructions are in the FSM for the gasket replacement, several bad YouTube videos on the topic exist and throw people off.

If you replace the coil packs, you need to know: Three are major issues with aftermarket parts on this one, including big-name brands like MSD. And there are a shitload of counterfeits for the Denso product being sold (and even fulfilled by!) scAmazon and on fleaBay. Buy from a trusted source, and look up your part number at www.densoautoparts.com, I recommend Summit Racing or Rock Auto for fulfillment if you REALLY need to replace them all. Seems silly to me, but you do you. 160k isn't that many miles on the clock.

You may have a sticky valve contributing to the 147 and 135 numbers. Try running a BG or SeaFoam cleaning product through the crankcas before your next OC. And top-end cleaning would be worthwhile. We had one guy on here replace his 2UZ because he had low/no pressure on one cylinder. Turns out it was a stuck valve, easily dealt with. He swapped in a new engine and could never get the new engine running, despite our best efforts to help. Never saw him on here again.

If you haven't already, get reading: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Creaks: Check those LBJ dude, this is not a joke. Known killer of these trucks. Use OEM only, and fresh bolts on replacement. Aftermarket often uses nylon/plastic internals and have a higher fail rate/lower mileage life.

Suspension, read the suspension section of that thread I linked. Sound system, same story, it's covered in great detail.

 

Thanks for the info! I may just replace the cracked one as it still starts up and runs perfect. I plan on following the Hayne's manual to a T, and there have been a couple videos I've watched that seem legit about a timing chain replacement, which included the half moons.

I'll try the

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 and a BG or SeaFoam product, heard about those as well.

I JUST got done with tearing out a Theta II out of a 1st gen Forte. There's so much more room in this thing, so I'm thinking it'll be a breeze with the manual. I'm hoping I can push a teardown in until I need to do a timing belt, probably at 190k-200k. I'll keep an eye on the condition of those two.

Thanks for much for the info! More fun is to be had!

 

Love Haynes and Chilton, have one of each for our trucks. But do yourself a favor. Grab the FSM for your truck, and click the download arrow in your browser to save a copy to your computer for reference. I like that Haynes and Chilton's give you the practical way, but I also like to use the FSM as a reference point to see Toyota's recommended way of doing things.

Stick around, bro and welcome to the forum. Tons of killer advice here, even if the guys on the Facebook groups like to say we act like "know it alls". That thread I linked is not my brain, it's the collective info we've learned here from various pitfalls and problem after problem coming up. You start to notice patterns with failures, and there are some creative solutions and info embedded in that thread you won't find elsewhere!

 

But that's the only reason I come here!

 

Done! Damn! What an awesome group! Appreciate all the info. I'll update tomorrow on some of the things I get done. I also need to finish a paver border this weekend, so that takes precedence. Hoping this truck lasts me a good long while. I also need to look around for a good auto paint guy to address some chips and runs from a previous owner. Busy busy busy!

 

Not a lot to it...

Keep your fluids at the right levels.
OEM LBJ and fresh bolts, properly torqued, proactively changed every 100-125k miles.
Change that timing belt/water pump/tensioner, with the genuine Aisin kit every 100k/10yrs, plus any pulleys not included with the kit.
Proactively replace the radiator and cap every 100-150k miles.
Use authentic NGK or Denso Iridium plugs for your VVTi.
For 4WD, grease all zerks on driveline at every oil change, and regularly check actuator rubber vent hoses are intact and not cracked, engage 4WD at least 5-10 miles per month.
Replace your rear diff vent breather proactively every 50k miles.
Replace PCV valves every 30k miles.

Any electronic parts, pumps, sensors, relays, etc., go with the OEM brand.
Any part that takes more than 1hr to replace, or requires replacing other parts to accomplish, go with the OEM brand.

List of OEM brands: Denso, Aisin, Advics, which are Toyota-related, and in some cases non-Toyota brands exist. Like, many bearings and joints are Spicer, MAF is made by Hitachi, other bearings are Koyo (wheels, IIRC).

That engine should last you a solid 500k miles.

 

Solid information. I'll look into the PCV as well. There's some hoses I'll need to identify because they are CRUSTY and loose!

I did check the LBJ's as soon as I got home, they're solid! No play whatsoever and they look to be in good condition. I'll plan to get a pair before 200k.

Update: when checking the LBJ's, I noticed the front has drilled and slotted rotors, and the calipers look to be about brand new. The not so good news is that someone sheared a lug bolt on both sides of the front. I'll check into how to replace, I assume it'll need to be pressed. HOPEFULLY, I can do that in place and I don't have to take it off to use my shop press.

 

Ditto on the PCV because they cause oil leaks when they get clogged up. Under ideal conditions you have a negative crankcase pressure (vacuum) meaning the PCV sucks more out than the blowby of the piston rings blows in. If you have positive crankcase pressure, seals and gaskets will leak that otherwise would not.
I don't replace my PCV valves, just take them out and clean them with carburetor cleaner.

 

I'll check the PCV valve tomorrow and clean it up. Thanks!

 

Wheel studs are easy to replace. Jack up truck. Remove wheel. Remove caliper. Remove rotor. Hammer broken stud out. Hold new stud against splines. Use an oversize nut as a spacer and then thread lug nut onto new stud. Tightening the lug nut over the space will pull the new stud into position over splines. Remove lug nut and spacer nut. Replace rotor, caliper and wheel. That’s it.

 

+1 ^^

Or just buy a stud setter. Lisle makes one, it’s sold at any auto parts store. It’s worth having in the toolbox, even knowing a stack of washers combined with a lug nut works too. I like the tools because good ones have a bushing that rotates to reduce strain.

Note the wheel studs front and rear are different in our trucks. Lengthwise, if you have rear drums at least.

More info here with part numbers to use at the local parts store, but read my reply above this one I’m linking for possibly other good details: https://www.tundras.com/threads/broken-wheel-hun.121117/#post-3107155

 

Thanks y'all! So, after picking up some concrete (6 bags at 320 lbs) my truck is riding on bump stops in the back. I made note of the terrible condition of the leaf springs, is there any other suspension components in the back I would want to address with extreme sag? I would do the research, but wanted to post something real quick for a quick answer while I'm doing some concrete work.

Being this is my work truck, the valve cover gasket and rear suspension is now my top priority. Thank you!

 

Options out back:

• Airbags - This is a one-stop-shop kit to perk up the rear when hauling, just don't be a dumbass ... plumb the bags to separate valves so they don't slosh air back/forth between each other, keep your OEM springs.
• Replacement springs, stiffer but OEM (maybe no lift), and keep your overload spring
• Replacement springs, heavy duty/"HD", you'll get some lift, and keep your overload spring
• OEM springs but add-a-leaf: You can get anywhere from 3/4" lift to 1.75" lift, but lose your overload spring

 

Went with ATS stock springs. Should have them installed next weekend. I don't drive the truck much as it is now, only for jobs or materials, but I think it'll be safe. Plus, I'm guessing it'll need an alignment.

In the meantime, I'm going to attack the valve cover gasket and get that oil pressure test done, then use some of the previously mentioned chemicals (

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 and SeaFoam) and see how that affects my results. I'm planning on cleaning the leak at the crank/oil pump/oil pan so I can more closely monitor. I'll also get a new coil pack to replace the cracked one and I'm guessing the truck will be good until I can scrounge up enough money to get the rock chips paint corrected. I'm also wanting to get that updated grill and refresh the headlights, as there's a bit of yellowing. Probably ceramic coat them as well.

Trying to stay with low-dollar cost items as I'm also trying to update my house and build a ton of equity. My game plan is playing the long game.

Thanks again @shifty` and @bfunke !

 

VC gaskets, all the part numbers and info you'll need is here: https://www.tundras.com/posts/2712883

NOTE: Many of the Toyota Parts sites have a 25% off sale that ends TODAY. Get on it, Hoss! https://autoparts.toyota.com/

 

The part numbers I need to get for the VC gasket sets are:
112130F010 - Pass VC Gasket (1)
112140F010 - Driver VC Gasket (1)
119350010 - Spark Plug Tube Gaskets (8)
9008010330 - Valve Cover Bolt with Grommet (18) (*I'm seeing a note that this is for a Land Cruiser, but will fit and includes the bolt and seal, rather than buying them both separately)
0029500103 - Toyota FIPG 3 Sealant

Just wanted to confirm the bolts with the grommets before I press order, in case there's something I'm missing and to consolidate this in my own thread for future potential use.

Edit: I'd rather pick these up from my local dealer, so I don't pay shipping, which is nice. But to save time, I see YotaShop has some kits. Are these verified as genuine OEM Toyota parts?

 

Good call on new bolts. The rubber gets hard, dry and brittle. New rubber will seal tight at the specified torque. When I ordered 90080-10330, I got a bag of 10 bolts.

 

Just verified the dealer sells them by each bolt. Thanks for letting me know. I'll place this order. Appreciate y'all!

 

Alright, leaf springs are giving me some trouble, unfortunately. It seems that someone did a "cheap man's" lowering kit, so I'll need to get some OEM parts. Trouble is: P/N 48306-04010 (Bumper Sub-Assembly, Rear) is discontinued EVERYWHERE. Anyone know of a similar part that would work? Looking for the bump stop that goes on top of the leaf spring.

I'm not wanting to put it back together with the aftermarket kit because I want stock ride height. This means I'm also going to have to take a look at the front, because it's level, with the crap lowering kit.

I called the dealership and they said possibly a Lexus would work. My last resort is driving a couple hours to Phoenix to a salvage yard! Thanks!

 

Yes, you can buy hilux bumpstops. Direct swap. But the domestic sources are limited, it’s a foreign part. Cheap part though.

 

Toyota p/n

$38 48306-35110 for Toyota Hilux Pickup MK5 KDN165 2.5TD 08/2001-07/2005

48306-35110, you'll need two. You'll need to order from Partsouq or Amayama, Partsouq does have a presence on fleaBay if you feel more comfortable with having it as a known mediating platform, it's one of the rare times (/people) I'd say it's OK to order from on there. There areother sellers I DO NOT trust on there. These are a hair taller than OEM but what you want if you intend to stay with a lil lift

 

I was looking at the 35110 seeing that it LOOKS like it'll work. I'll order those, as they're available. I'll look into the other ones because I'm getting wheel studs and other parts, so if I can save on these types of parts. Thanks again @shifty` !

 

Looking at the front, nothing jumps out at me. They appear to be 4600's. Anyone see anything that would work as a lowering aspect on the front? Just wanted to get parts ordered if the rake would be extreme, since the rear will be raised without the "lowering system".

Looks like the sway bar end links are getting a bit cracked, so I will order those. Everything else looks okay to me, unless someone sees anything concerning?

 

The swaybar links are way squashed but it may just be because it’s lifted in air. I’d love to see them when on the ground.

I don’t see a strut spacer, just what looks like 4600s. And those are OEM springs, not lifted. I know this because I see the purple paint stripes near the top two coils. Toyota used colored stripes like that to differentiate spring rates/length for various models.

 

The part the front spring sits on at the middle of the 4600 shock. Looks like the SOS performance drop.

https://sosperformance.com/products/sos-performance-2-front-lowering-kit-fits-2000-2006-tundra