General Supercharger Thread

Well after a few months finally received the V2 prospeed CC. Heres what's shipped. No instructions, guess I'll have to wing it off their website pictures

 

some cannon fodder

>>>for all those folks that think S/C's wreck your mileage



this ~400 miles 21.49 gallons (i filled up & it was 21.45)

18.69 avg. mostly hwy

the 21.1 trip avg is 90 mile trip Conroe to South Houston - all hwy

not bad. I usually do 17mpg. we had a frigid 80degree cold front come thru.

trans temp (pan) is avg for 80deg ambient.

intake temp is always 31degree delta.

max on the AEM boost gauge(this tank) was 4.6lbs.

 

Well looks like this V2 no worky with mounting points if you have a 2650. It needs to be a few inches right to line up with the left mount point. The right mount point has nothing to attach to anyway so that makes no sense. If you're running a Whipple no issue I guess. Here's mine vs their picture.

 

Does that catch can dump what it catches back into the engine? So more like a catch and release can. And not to totally rain on your parade, but isn't the point of a PCV system to dispose unwanted gasses out of the engine? Not condense them and send it back...

 

Looks like you could just mount to the cowl if your gonna keep it. More stuff to that's in the way to get at the injectors.

 

According to PS it does. But the coolent running through supposedly does not allow the milkshake oil back. Idk. I am no Prospeed ball hugger. Originally looking for their V1 CC but they gave me this one at the same price. So here were are, albeit it doesn't mount with a 2650 anyway

 

Alright got it mounted and lined out. Guess I'll run it for a while and see how it does. It might just be snake oil. If I were to do it again I'd just get a regular CC, at least that way you can see and empty the milkshake.

 

I see the magnuson lid makes for a nice work bench. Looks like a good spot to set your 10mm and never see it again.

 

Ive actually knocked my socket set off the lid and had to fish them from the motor

 

I was packing up my TVS1900 to be shipped off and decided to pop the lid off to see if there was any oil accumulation, after seeing the one that @snivilous posted. I was satisfied that there wasn't much.



Buuuut . . . that was after I cleaned out these yellow bits of plastic that somehow got inside. I did pick this up second hand with a claimed 5k miles on it. I have no idea what it used to be.





The intercooler filtered it out preventing it from getting into the engine.



There was also some wear on the rotors.





I hope that this does the trick. I'm going to strap it to a pallet in the hope that it will reduce the chances of it getting flipped ass over tea kettle.

 

Wtf where the hell did that plastic come from?

 

I know, right? Must have happened with the previous owner. It's the density of a plastic food container, or a port cap.

 

Maybe the original installer didn’t remove the plastic plug from the intake port, and they were yellow at the time? Lol

 

That's something I've wondered. The only problem would be that the intake narrows at the bypass valve and it would've needed to get past that somehow. The plastic bits were about what I would imagine that red plugs thickness would be.

 

There FIFY. That’s EXACTY what I got filling up yesterday.

Seriously, though, how in the name of Dexter’s Laboratory do you guys get anything over 14 MPG? And I’m still on stock size tires and stock wheels! I mean, are you guys going 62 mph drafting semi’s downhill with the tires aired up to 100 psi after golf ball dimpling your body panels?

I do have an actual preponderance, though. I know this is an oddly specific question, but what does/should timing look like below 1500 rpm at higher loads? Say I’m lugging around at 60 mph through a twisty mountain road and throttle out of a corner after I’ve scrubbed a little speed. I don’t care to have the truck downshift as I’m only accelerating a few mph on a small incline, but the vacuum goes to 0 and load goes up just enough to keep the torque converter from unlocking or the trans from down shifting. I’m seeing negative ignition timing… Thinking maybe I should loosen up the transmission downshift tables.

 

I averaged 18mpg on a 300 mile drive to moab, but I was driving the speed limit, not passing people constantly, pretty much never in boost. It was very boring. But it is possible

 

14mpg is good for me too. This year's fuel quality is USA now and slightly better than most...we started using our supply within the last couple years...stronger octane...I've noticed I'm getting better mpg with same route, driving style and timing - slightly higher than 14.6mpg! BANZAI!

 

I don’t believe you. You were prolly day-dreaming about Moab. 18 mpg happened to me once. Bone stock. Nothing in the bed. Everybody on the road wanted to murder me.

 

Looks like that yellow foam around the engine in areas that you have to remove. But wtf lol

 

~62mph
cruise control
stock suspension
stock 1794 wheels
Michelin round black tires 37psi
107k on the odo

usually no traffic that interferes with my speed.

i cruise on the hwy at -9 to -10 inches mercury. -10 is the kwan. -10 usually means I'm hitting 22-23 mpg

when you cruise...what is your MAP? anywhere near -10?

 

I was definitely daydreaming about moab, and I didn't believe it at first either. Maybe my truck has reached a point where I've added so much extra weight and drag that now it helps gas mileage.

 

The foam that was in my engine was very foam-like and crumbly, not like the lid from a butter container. It remains a mystery.

Inertia . . .

 

I have kinda been pondering this as well. What I've started to do is look a what the absolute load is when seeing the knock retard. In my situation, if it's 10-20% I leave the timing alone, if it's higher, I'll pull a half degree at a time and keep an eye on it. If you're seeing 0 on your boost gauge, your load is likely above that 10-20%. I think that @snivilous might have a perspective as far as whether to pull timing or loosen up the converter as he's tuned a few different trucks, the other full-time tuners like @mZiggy and @JustDSM may be willing to offer strategies. Personally I'd like to see several base timing tables of tuned trucks so that I might have an idea what the trend seems to be as I'm always afraid of pulling so much timing that I've neutered performance.

 

The best the Sequoia has ever gotten was 15.9. That was pre mods, freeway trying to stay off the gas.

Now on 1.75" lift, 295's & all the SC mods, I'm lucky to get 14 freway, I average 9.5 street, last tank was a new low, 5.7!

 

Map is usually around -7, maybe -8 at 70 mph. With a headwind (which I seem to ALWAYS fight, even going there and back on the same road...) it's usually -6 or -5. I can only think of about 10 miles of road that I could do 62 mph on without disgruntling my fellow motorists. Our single lane highway is 65, the divided highway is 70, and the freeway is 80. Backroads are 50 or 55 depending on which county you are in. I can drive through five counties is 45 minutes going one direction, or stay in the same county for over an hour going the other direction. I'm not complaining that I can get where I need to go without dawdling, though.

That was my approach, too. I guess 7xxx lbs doesn't make for good inertia...?

So I haven't logged anything to really suss out the data, but I've driven over 1000 miles in the last week, more than half of that with an enclosed trailer between 4k and 8.5k+ lbs on the highway with 1-3k elevation changes one way. I have an Innovate PSB-1 for MAP and Wideband, and somehow though a Banks iDash was a good idea for all other vehicle vitals. Spoiler: it's hot garbage, IMO. The gauge itself is nice - very readable, not too bright, auto dims, shows lots of data at once. It's just EXTREMELY limited in what data it can show. AND, I'm pretty sure that some of that data is erroneous (I'll get to that in a minute).

Of the few parameters the iDash can actually display, I have Engine Load, Throttle Position, AFR on both banks, Ignition Advance, and a Banks parameter called Cylinder Air Density (CAD) on display. Load maxes out 100% at the same time my MAP gauge reads 0 InHG - which makes sense. Due to being above sea level, my CAD reads 83-86% or so depending on the elevation - which also makes sense as the cylinders aren't 100% full due to the lower air density. When I get in to boost and my MAP reads around 2.3psi, my CAD reads 100%; more boost and CAD reads over 100%, but in both cases, Load is still 100% as I guess it doesn't know how to read more than 100%.

Below say 1900 RPM and cruising, if I give it some throttle but not enough to unlock the converter or downshift, MAP goes up to between -2inHG and 2PSI, TPS goes to around 40, AFR can be either 14.7 or 10.1 (PE kicking in), and my ignition timing tanks to between 4 and -5, but usually 0 to -5 degrees. At that same RPM and cruise without that little extra throttle, timing is usually in the +6 to +9 degree range.

I don't know enough to know, but my gut says that negative ignition timing values means inefficient energy extraction from the fuel, and that I would be better off running higher RPM as I'm essentially bogging the engine at that point.

I understand that higher RPM + Lower load is going to see the highest ignition advance because fuel burns at the same rate no matter the RPM, so the flame needs to propagate sooner with a shorter (time wise) power stroke at higher RPMs in order to achieve complete combustion. My understanding has been that high load/low RPM driving is the most efficient driving mode, but I suppose it may not be true in this case. Before the SC, I would try to hold gears longer without the converter locked; as long as I wasn't slowing down, I assumed I was operating in the most efficient load range and tried not to go down a gear unless I needed to accelerate or climb. With the SC, I don't know if those 'rules' have changed, and I'm putting undue stress on the motor that way - the ignition timing being my main evidence as such.

To further complicate that preponderance... I mentioned that the iDash may be giving me some false data. When i let off the gas completely and coast or engine brake, my Wideband AFR usually goes to 22.x while the iDash stock AFR has been going to 11.x (the richest value the stock O2's can read). It does this consistently. But at cruise, they both read essentially the same 14.7. I would think the Wideband correct, but I'm lost at this point.

My apologies for the novellette...

 

I can literally see my gas gauge needle drop if I get on it

 

I was doing pretty good averaging 12.8-13mpg. Then of course yesterday I eas playing around and lost 1/2 a tank in short notice!

 

I think the hot tip here would be logs.

 

I laugh when I see posts whining about the cost of gas, (not referring to any posts here, there have been threads on it, usually with negative references to California) why would anyone get a big truck with a V8 & not consider the cost of ownership?

 

If I pay any attention to MPG at all lately I seem to be getting 14 on local rural roads 16ish on the highway at 72mph (we don’t have flat highways here). If I drive however I feel like and let it boost away from time to time I get more like 12ish. This is on some aggressive 35s. But hey, I didn’t supercharge it to worry about gas mileage. Luckily it’s just a weekend vehicle and tow vehicle for me, and every truck hogs gas when towing a camper except for maybe a 3.0 duramax and those are gutless in comparison.

If I daily drove this thing I’d be constantly prodding all the other vehicles on the road to see what it’s quicker than just for fun. In Mexico of course.