What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Do you have blocks in the rear as well? Just curious how you have 3.5" of lift in the rear....

I'm not sure about the spacers up front, but if you already have some, I'd assume you could measure how thick yours is and compare to what is on the truck. Then figure out the lift height difference. I know the coachbuilder shims are half the thickness of the lift they provide or something like that (quarter thick shim gives like half inch lift).

 

No blocks or shackles in the rear (that I'm aware of). I should have grabbed a picture of the rear too. The higher RAS setting just gives it that much more lift in the back. So below is the profile pic of the truck before the RAS. Just image the rear sitting a measured +/- 3.5" higher over the rear tire (from bottom of fender). It looked ridiculous, which is why I went went with the lower setting on the RAS.

Edit: You are correct about the Coachbuilder shims. For their 1" lift shims they state that "[t]his product provides a 1:2 ratio and will measure .50" in actual thickness."

 

That’s a puck for sure.

If you’re doing all this to tow better, I’d suggest just picking up a set of 5100s.

 

Odd, I have the RAS as well and gained an inch with it. I'm a little confused how you have so much more lift in the rear with having blocks up front too.

I have about 2" lift up front with 6112, I added the RAS cause I was about level without and I'm back to having some rake. But not like what you have. Take a pic of your leaf springs to show the u-bolts. If you have blocks, they will be between the leafs and the frame.

 

Thanks. I'll try to grab some pics tonight.
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That is a cheaper steel spacer lift on your front struts.

Like Robert said, something ain’t right in the back if you’re getting that much lift in the ass unless you’ve got lift shackle or non-factory leafs

 

Installed the TRD air flow accelerator (

$33 PTR03-34079 Intake Flow Accelerator

PTR03-34079) in the stock airbox.

Hardest part was not losing the rubber grommets on the 10mm bolts holding the lower airbox in. Total install time was 15 minutes, and 10 of that was messing with the grommets.

I can't tell any difference in power or sound, but I do think it flows better and it's OEM fit and cheap enough ($30), so I'm happy with it.

 

Did you remove the grey filter in the top of the air box?

 

I did that on my 2013 but never did it on the 2020. Now I don't have to worry about removing it with the Stillen.

 

Didn’t really need to do anything with the grommets. Once you loosened the (2) 10mm bolts holding the air box in place, the box should have just came out easily.

 

Did 400 mile trip on mine after the swap. Truck runs smoother, shifts smoother. I also think it downshifts better also. No power gains from what I can tell, but I love what it does for 30 bucks invested.

 

Guys I know this is a forum for out tundras but you’re always so helpful. My dads GM dealer says dealer they diagnose transmission problem until the engine runs well on his 2017 gmc Sierra.

Father lost power on the highway and truck would only move in one gear. Had it towed to dealership who says that the truck “runs rough” and occasionally misses, says they can’t diagnose any transmission issues until that is figured out. My father states that at times the truck does run rough. Dealer attempted to replace an injector which didn’t fix the issue. Service advisor says five mechanics were puzzled and ultimately decided that the crankshaft must have lost shape and that it needs to be replaced to the tune of $5000. Is it true the transmission can’t even be diagnose posed until the engine issue is solved?

They aren’t charging him for the injector replacement (for now, I’m sure they would if he took the truck elsewhere)

 

Did you reset your ECM after the install? Did you unhook your battery during the install?

 

I did neither. You can do the entire install without unhooking any electronics. The video I saw on it didn't have me doing any resets.

 

I'd buy that. I would imagine that they can still read any codes that the transmission is throwing just fine, but without consistent load (ie: a well running engine) I'd think it would be impossible to actually run the truck through all the gears to see what's wrong. But I'm just some dude on the internet with a keyboard, not an actual mechanic, so take this with a very large grain of salt

 

No need to do that. Just take out the air box and remove the piece that’s on the air box and replace with TRD intake accelerator.

 

I think he's merely asking to say that mileage/hp output could be more accurate from a reset post install.

 

For a better gain, now do a SABM

 

Here are the promised pictures. My apologies in advance for the quantity. Since I wasn't sure which one may or may not prove relevant, I just went ahead and uploaded them all:




















The End.

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Has it arrived yet?

 

Just got delivered right before the storm came in. I already have a simple project in mind for the name on the lid.

 

Are you gonna keep the stock lid? Or plexiglass a new one

 

Keep it. Just going to cut some color matched letters for it.

 

Ooo niice, can't wait to see that

 

Yeah, There is a block in there.

 

I was thinking that little thing was an OEM piece, especially since its not very big and its in a wedge shape (smaller end forward). I've installed blocks on my Jeeps and Excursion, and those looked nothing this one. Sorry for my misrepresentation then.
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Don't be sorry. If everyone knew everything about their trucks this forum would be 'somedudeswithnothingtodo.com'

 

Reworking a few bed items.

 

Finish mounting the power tank tomorrow. And the blower comes Wednesday

 

Yesterday, I took her to the mechanic down the street from me for some 65K mile work. Radiator flush, Tranny flush and a new belt before it starts to make noise (it had 8 years on it). They did it in just a few hours and cost just over $600.