2006 Tundra Lucchese #42 (I've got issues)

I did the neutral thing and yeah it made a huge difference, the system has never been serviced and the condenser is a little beat up, figured it was a good time to swap it all out. I'll check to refrigerant, if it just needs a recharge, I'll do that while I want for parts.

Ahhh, I see.. I've seen roof replacements done, so I assumed it was just bolted on from inside.

 

+1 for checking the freon charge. There are lots of videos and writeups on this but basically can get gauges / vacuum pump as loaners for 0 net cost upon return from LAPS and as low as like $11 can for R134. Can check fan clutch with truck off and cold thst it doesn't spin on its own more than like 1/2 turn. Videos on this too.

 

Have cleaned dirty radiator and condenser fins with a variety of things including a hose and gentle toothbrush and even tweezers when needed to remove debris. They even sell little condensor fin straightening tools but usually use a combination of tweezers or tiny needlenose or a little screwdriver or even dental pick to straighten them out one at a time and increase airflow. At 250k miles on original condensor and evaporator FWIW and produces cold air on 113 degree days. I personally wouldn't proactively replace all the OE parts with aftermarket until they failed. The OE is good sfuff. However I have swapped in a Denso compressor in a Taco because clutch failed and it is still going strong after like a decade.

 

I did the fan clutch when I did the timing belt a couple of weeks ago, there was significant play in the original clutch where I could freely spin it, so I got one from Toyota. I'll see where I can rent the vacuum stuff from, seems like a straight forward process.

I avoid aftermarket where I can, I usually just order OEM from the dealer, I'll look into repairing, but honestly replacing just sounds better to me. Denso has the whole system for around $400 give or take and its not a terrible price to pay for not suffering in this heat.

 

The FGT Tundra AC works well as designed. Mine will freeze me even on summer days in the south. A mod to electric fan requires you to wire it such that the fan come on either when AC activated or coolant reaches a specified temperature - not worth it. Agree you should check to be sure yours condensor and radiator fins are clean and straight. Make sure you check that your shroud is present properly attached. Based on all the questions in this thread, I suspect you lack the skills/tools to adequately service the AC unit. Take it to a reliable AC shop, preferably a local independent that’s been around a long time.

 

Agreed $400 is not bad for a full AC system swap (hoses, evaporator, and EV too?)

Is there something that is broken and needs repaired or is that YTBD? Replacing condenser and compressor and dryer may not fix the leak if it is at an o-ring elsewhere. That's usually tracked with R134 with dye. A recharge might be under $15, last a long time, and if not help pinpoint a leak.

 

If it is leaking, it's the slowest in the world, it still cools as long as its below 95 outside while idle, but above that the idle is cooling at 77. It's YTBD, I made an appointment with a reputable A/C mechanic to have them leak test and then evac/recharge for $200. So I'm going to hold off on buying parts since I was told by so many people (here and elsewhere) to wait on parts.

Loud and clear on that, from my visual inspection, everything is good and the condenser is just looks like hell, I straightened out all the bent fins and didn't notice any difference in the cooling. You would be correct on the lacking skills/tools to do the A/C, I've made an appointment with someone with both.

 

I thought this guy gives a good quick description on how an HVAC system works including what the high/low readings mean, and this guy gives a very in depth overview of more components like diagnosing electrical and compressor clutch issues. It sounds like your compressor/clutch is engaging and hence you don't have a blown fuse/relay or have a system that is completely empty. Gauges are a free loan and a can of R134 is like $12 at LAPS but can get one with dye for a few $ more.

 

Easy DIY AC blower and coil service/clean in this post #125 with linked YouTube university videos

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dri...ecial-05dc-refresh.133376/page-5#post-3686603

 

I just did my rear diff, transfer case, and front diff (holy over torqued bolts), I put 75-90 in the front/transfer, and 80-90 in the rear. I have the LSD sticker and decided to follow shifty's advice in another thread about fluids. After about 100miles the truck is starting to feel really sluggish and I'm hearing a very light whine in the rear diff at 30-40mph, should I just drain it and put 75-90 in it? Just in case when I did the fluids, I did all the zerks on the drive shaft (again) and did an oil/filter change. (appointment for A/C is on the 23rd).

 

When the truck is cold, if you throw it in reverse and kick the wheel hard to turn while in reverse going less than 2-3 mph is it choppy at all? (chatter)

At 30-40 if it's a whine, I'd expect pinion bearing more than rear-end.

 

I haven't noticed anything choppy, it feels smooth as butter.. maybe I'm describing the sound wrong, it's not high pitched, it sounds like a deeper mechanical sound like a sedan engine (but extremely faint), but in the rear of the truck. I had my wife drive it and I hung onto the tailgate to listen to it, but other than the sluggish feeling, and by that I mean the pedal feels heavier and I'm not getting the same acceleration as I was before, it feels fine.

 

Have found the Supertech 80-90W is the most economical, was confirmed that it includes additives for LSD, and is "recommended for Limited Slip / Positive Traction rear axles", so no additional additive was needed for mine; it runs without chatter. But sounds like that's not your issue.

Using a stethoscope should be able to tell if its the rear pinion or something else. FWIW had a whine that could hear in the cab then traced rearward from front diff to front wheels down the driveline through tcase to rear diff and rear wheels to locate it was actually the rear wheel bearing but it made noise at all speeds.

 

Okay, so I might have screwed up a bit? The PCV that plugs into the back of the air intake has been unplugged for a month or more.. around when I did the timing belt change, I just noticed while I was doing a check of the engine and saw it was off on the engine side, not the side of the intake. Is this super bad? I just did the oil a few days ago and it wasn't burned, check the oil again after plugging it back in and the oil seems fine, normal levels, very new color still. I probably drove 2k+ miles with it unplugged. Now that it is plugged in, the ticking noise I was hearing before changing the timing belt is back as a side note. not my image below, but the same hose.

 

Passenger side head actually doesn't see as much issue with varnish/buildup, so I'm thinking you're fine.

Check the ends of the hose. They like to crack, and it's easier for them to pop loose. My 2006 at 70k(ish) origianl miles were cracked. I replaced both hoses, which on OEM comes with foams included, about 6months ago.

 

Concur with @shifty` - it’s a vent but not connected vacuum like PCV hose. There might be a little by Venturi effect of the air intake but you’ll be fine. That part is still available for 2005-6 but discontinued for earlier FGTs. If yours is split or brittle replace now.