2006 Tundra Lucchese #42 (I've got issues)

I was going to say drill and extract, but I like your buddy's idea better.

 

I actually have a question regarding that, do you happen to know what metal the engine is casted in? I know Iron, but is it white iron or? I tried to google, but it only gave me cast iron. (Apparently this is the best time for me to learn proper welding so hes making me do the welding). Will flux core from a mig welder stick to the block?

 

Sure as flux will. I've seen 3/4" plate get stuck together with flux.

 

So what should I use to make sure it doesn't stick to the block? I'm trying to get just the bolt out and not weld the bolt in there lol

 

Do practice passes.

Maybe try running a .030 wire instead of .035 to be a little more accurate.

do more practice passes.

 

I'd probably consider another method first like drilling and extracting. But if I were to weld it I'd consider an antispatter spray and then using a nut with ID smaller than the bolt OD with the weld tacking the center hole. Could run a test by threading a bolt flush with another nut to simulate. Summoning @JakeJake for more thoughts.

 

The engine is cast iron.

But the part the tension bolts too is part of the oil pump/front cover and is aluminum iirc.

 

That bolt is a perfect candidate to weld a nut on, I really wouldn't think twice about it. I typically go in dry, fill the bolt up until its cherry red, and then let it cool a bit before spinning it out. The heat helps un stick what was left of the previous fastener.

 

Is 10 ft./lb. within the accuracy range of that torque wrench or might it need to have the accuracy verified or be calibrated?

 

That would be amazing, still in the holding pattern for the welder to arrive, when I was comparing the parts of the block, that area did look different compared to the rest of it. It looks like a bolted on cover.

I have no idea, no other bolt besides that one failed, it's a brand new torque wrench so I assumed I was golden.

 

I usually test them against a torque adapter like the $50 Quinn at harbor freight. Larger wrenches like one that goes up to 150 ft lbs might not have good accuracy at low ranges, so for 10 ft lbs I'd probably be using a 1/4" in lb wrench and convert to ft. lbs. Even a 3/8" 5-80 ft lb that has accuracy at top 20% of scale may not be that accurate at 10 ft lbs. The wrench you're using should claim it's accuracy range. And again, I test them after purchase and occassionally thereafter against the claim. Also can get a feel over time of what 10, 20, 90, and 132 ft lbs feels like with different wrench lengths so can sense when they are malfunctioning.

 

For low torques I have a newton meter/inch-pound torque wrench. Like ToyotaDude said, any torque wrench, when you're at the lowest or highest end of its scale, is going to be far less accurate than its middle range.

Sometimes bolts just break though.

 

Check it with a magnet... If not magnetic its aluminum.

 

You absolute genius, I totally forgot about that, I just ran out and it is... NOT magnetic! Its Aluminum! Thank you!!

 

I got it out, took a few attempts because of the limited working room. Ordered new bolts, should be here Wednesday.

 

Nice work! Threads in the housing look ok?

 

Yup, a little dirty, but I'm going to hit it with some parts cleaner and a brush.

 

These are the original LBJ that were put on the truck, it's insane how good of condition they're in. I almost feel like I shouldn't have bother to swap them out, though they were significantly broken in, there was no play in the joint at all.

 

Nice.

Doesn't matter, but I hear you. This isn't a part you let wear out before replacing. It's something to replace every 100,000 or so, regardless of condition, or anytime you buy a truck and aren't sure when they were last replaced, regardless of condition.

Maybe someone on the facebook site will buy your old ones

 

Yep, it's like car insurance or seat belts. Seat belt has never saved me from flying out a window, but I still buckle up every time, knowing if the time ever comes, I don't want to fly out the window. And insurance-wise, until recently when someone ran me off the road in the wife's SUV and my tire bumped a parked Tesla's front bumper, I can't tell you the last time I've had an incident where someone else's insurance failed to cover it. And yet I've paid tens of thousands of dollars into car insurance over the last couple decades.

Some things you just handle proactively, pay up front, all in anticipation of an event where it's going to pay off. Sometimes the payoff is "a normal day without incident".

 

Another issue I've found. Both CV inner joint boots are torn, still a lot of grease in there, but I don't want to wait too long to change them. So.. do I reboot with the OE kit from Toyota? I noticed the remans are gone or discontinued, I don't really want to mess with aftermarket if I can avoid it. If I do reboot, is it difficult?

Another update: I'm getting a quote to have it painted professionally. I'm doing a terrible job and cannot do the clear coat properly at all. I don't know if it's me, the gun, or just the fact I'm painting in 105 degree heat (109 in my garage). I can do the prime and base coat till the cows come home, but the clear coat is just not happening, it orange peels horribly. I went through a gallon of the stuff trying to get it right.

The truck is reassembled and running beautifully, I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without you guys.

 

Reboot kit. But OEM, and you won’t need to do it again for another 10+ years.

 

Congrats on all the work you've done.

Here's videos on rebooting, OEM part numbers, and also also some aftermarket boot ideas if you ever plan to lift it much, then OEM can likely split again and so these other kits are options (like the Allpro one from Wheelers etc.).

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

I would reboot before swapping for aftermarket if joints arent dirty or worn/popping now that remans arent available, but I got one of the last sets of remans for like $75 / each IIRC that am treating with silicone for a few years (or might get some 303) to see how long they'll last, but expecting when they eventually split or right before they do (because 3" lift), planning to swap on on the inner Allpro kit.

Re the painting, yes 109 is a hard environment and likely needs some adjustments to keep the paint "wet" long enough. It sounds like maybe the spray gun pressure is too high so spraying an orange peel pattern and the paint might also be too thick or flashing too fast because of the heat so setting the dimpling in before it can flow out a little. Have you practiced with thinner paint and different gun settings on some test surfaces?

 

reboot kit ordered, I tried getting some paint shops to look at the vehicle, that was a no-go, they're backed up for months on months. My roof is going to rust through before I can get in. Anyone got a how-to to remove the roof? I haven't been able to find one on youtube or google.

 

What do you mean remove the roof? Do you have a photo of the rust? If not severe requiring welding in new metal, rust can be sanded, and if more than bondo seems needed, long strand fiberglass might be a good filler. Then epoxy coat it to seal against the weather and topcoat later.

 

I wanted to remove it to paint it, but I figured its better to just build a platform to stand on and paint, just a huge pain to paint the roof.

On a side note, is it possible to fit an A/C condenser fan (pic below) like they have on the sequoias? I would need to put a wire harness in for it and a relay (I'm assuming), and figure out how to mount it to a new condenser. I know I can't use the sequoia condenser, and I can't find a tundra condenser that has the mounting spots for it. The reason I want it is because at idle, my AC just doesn't work for crap, I know it's the 100+ degree weather here and figured this would be a good option for hot summers. I'm already planning on replacing the compressor, condenser, +all the hardware. Would the computer need new soft to run it, or just plugging in a temp sensor work?

 

Check the Freon first. If it’s low, it’s not going to blow cold at low at idle with no air coming thru the condenser. You can also bump it into neutral and give it 1500rpm or so and typically see a drastic change. Also could be fan clutch and not pulling enough air.

 

I haven't looked close, but isn't the roof part of the entire cab? It's one piece, minus the doors. Roof, pillars, floor/tub are all one piece of metal.

 

Yeah you can’t take the roof off. It’s the top of the cab tub.