What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nioce, gotta look that one up.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-rnnGl...BELRkTzieIFxSB2QaBmbvnxqpRxu9wKxoCOzsQAvD_BwE

 

We see several cases per year of "What the hell is leaking?!" and I'd guesstimate 1 in 8 is the oil cooler figure-8 seal. Half or more are probably valve cover gaskets and/or their FIPG poind and/or half moon plugs , one or two end up being cam seal towers.

 

Big complaint from 1GT owners on the Hallo11 (11") is it blocks the air vents in the center dash enough to make it aggravating.

 

Decided to go a different route for the shell light. These 5-chip LED lights are all over scAmazon and you can either get them in wired or battery. Battery takes (3) AAA batts.

I mounted to the rear door frame where the original one was. I marked the width between the sheet metal screws on that frame and opened two holes in the base with a step bit so it'd sit flush, right over the top of those sheet metal screws. Then mounted with some stubby flathead screws I had.

Overall, generally happy with the light output. My phone camera did long exposure so it looks twice as bright as it actually is, and it sucks using a rocker, but I can still find a way to rig this up to a piston-mounted switch using a piece of wire. Meanwhile, it's mounted with the 3-way rocker switch on top, so it's easy to access the battery door on the bottom for battery replacement.

​

 

Took the wife to our cabin for her birthday. Got to test out the Toyo AT3s off road and I’m pretty impressed. They’re quiet on the pavement and gripped really well off road.

 

I miss volume knobs.

It's like you read my mind

 

And on other topics, I had an interesting experience with the Foxbeam SS3 kit. I got the driver's side in with no issues. They slide right in if you line up the adjuster screw first on insertion, then pop in the stationary arm closest to the radiator in, then once the adjuster screw housing fully in, insert the outer pivot point. Worked great for driver's side. Not sure if my product took a hit in shipping or what, but when I popped in the passenger side, the whole f'n arm snapped off! I emailed them to see how they want to handle. I was already 3/4 done, so I'm just rocking it and hoping it'll hold with the adjuster screw and stationary pivot arm installed. More pics below this fail pic...

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Anyway, light output is great. Super wide beam, would nicely cover a ditch. Fitment is a little loose around the bumper skin pocket, which is undoubtedly necessary to allow for fine-tuning of position. It was very easy to center them, and they generally look (IMHO) great.

Output is markedly better with the DD SS3 pods than whatever these aftermarkets are that I bought. But y'all can decide on that.

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Before, no fogs

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Before, with halogen fogs

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After, with Foxbeam + DD SS3 fogs, I had to shoot wide because the light went waaaay wider. I haven't adjusted fully yet because I can't, given the passenger side housing broke.

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And for some front shots, before/during after:

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I need this for my 03. Thanx for sharing.

 

The diode dynamics is king for street legal pattern fog lights. I ran the SS3 pro for a little bit on the last truck, but I went back to Baja Designs because their higher end lighting was what I wanted and my OCD didn’t like mixing the brands on the front end.

 

That would cover the vents, half the dash, and a small child's head.

Also, don't make me get the 5.7 meme. I'll do it.

 

We need a 4.6 meme just for you.

 

Don’t talk about it. Be about it.

 

I'm on my laptop. Too lazy to get the tablet out.

 

Im guessing my 1G Sequioa is also SOL? pretty sure its the exact same dash and vents as 1G Tundra

 

you know goddamned well you have a PM dedicated to 1GT memes you could tap from. Fail.

 

Hey @khooiii,

Thank you for supporting Baja Designs! We hope your lighting package is exactly what you were looking for. If you have any questions about getting more light spread with your current setup, please feel free to reach out. We’d be happy to help fine-tune it with you.

Best,
Bill

Bill Sonevongxay | Forum Sales & Support 
Email: Bill@bajadesigns.com Phone: (760)560-2252

 

Again why BD is the best.

I think im good. Just need some more xl80’s whenever I get around to doing the bumper and we should be set.

 

Hey @khooiii,

Whenever you are ready for another set of XL80, shoot me a PM and I can help you out!

Best,
Bill

Bill Sonevongxay | Forum Sales & Support 
Email: Bill@bajadesigns.com Phone: (760)560-2252

 

I think so there isn’t a lot of places you can have a link and I’ve seen this one a lot, I originally thought it was my oil pan but thankfully it was only 2 dollar gasket

 

If you decide you need more light I just installed these in the work van. Because Ford decided on incandescent cargo light was enough in the Transit Connect.

$23 RVZONE 12v LED Interior Light Bar | 108LEDs 1600LM 6W DC 12 Volt led Strip Lights Enclosed Trailer Lights Fixture for Camper Truck Van RV Trailer Cargo Cabient Lights Fixture Motorhome Lorry (4Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/RVZONE-Interior-108LEDs-Trailer-Motorhome/dp/B09QYBZRJQ

Went from this


To this

 

Appreciate the suggestion, I just don't have time to run a 12v constant lead to the rear of the truck at the moment, or tap off anything at the rear to deal with it. I have the Nilight strips, I think same as @KNABORES installed, have had them for quite a while. Just haven't installed. I needed something easy and battery-operated for basic light, NOW, so I can do it the way I want to. The curse of being OCD and wanting everything to be done clean. FWIW, your setup is super clean and I love it.

Yeah, I think I've seen all of one time where someone's oil pan was leaking on a 2UZ and they had like 350k miles. I suspect someone dropped the oil pan at some point looking at/for something and that was the cause, in actuality - they didn't reseal correctly.

 

Tore up half the front end. This project has been a long time coming and will probably take me a few afternoons this week to complete.

New OEM LBJ and hardware
New lower control arms
New camber bolts
New struts/shocks all the way around
New sway bar links
New inner and outer tie rods

Oh, and new steering rack bushings and boots. You guys think I should do them? Or think there's another couple thousand miles I can squeeze out of these?

 

Some of the bolts looks worse for the wear as well and wondering if I should replace. The lower shock mount bolt got pretty mangled on the driver side during removal, and one of the steering rack bolts has some crushed threads.

I have the OEM LBJ bolts, but didn't order any other hardware. What is the tundras dot com braintrust opinion on getting boltandscrew shop hardware for the shock mount and possibly steering rack? Or do yall think those should be OEM for sure as well??

 

That's going to feel like a new truck! Also I just stopped feeling bad about MY procrastination on some things! Thanks
Shit, was your rack slamming around when you turned?
Looks like the "quick struts" I had on mine. Loving the 4600 Bilsteins.
Good luck with your cambolts

 

I have no idea how but I did not have any clunks or noticeable slamming etc during turns. I'm honestly shocked. No leaks or anything from the rack either.

Definitely quick struts on the front from a PO, still by some miracle has the TRD bilsteins on the rear, but they are all blown to hell and covered in rust converter paint.

I stupidly bought new quick struts from detroit axle last winter (now beyond return window) when I was in a "rush" to touch up the suspension. That's what is going on it now but I'm sure they'll blow out in a year and I'll re-do it with 5100s most likely.

Cam bolts came out of the LCAs without much fuss...the sleeves however...woof. Sawzall will be out first thing tomorrow

 

I struggled with one forever, and went straight to the angle grinder with a 7" cut wheel on all of them. Dangerous but those carbide sawzall blades are pricey.
Didn't know it, but this is how I was riding

 

54 bucks for a 3 pack, I already went ahead and bit the bullet. I'd give myself a budget nose job if I tried to run the angle grinder in there like you lol

Hobo freight doesn't make a 12" carbide blade yet, I checked