General Supercharger Thread

Congrats on the new rig, but sorry to see your Tundra go... I've enjoyed reading about your build, and I'm sure many of us would have no problem seeing posts on your adventures w/the new rig (and to see what you end up throwing at it)

 

Sometimes the relearn can be awhile...but good to go back to somewhat stock and eliminate any oddities.

 

Reassuring to know. I think that when I'm out in the truck, I'll try to take a route that necessitates driving conditions that will promote TCU learning in the rough shifting area so that it accumulates the data it needs to smooth out the shifts sooner versus trying to drive around it as one might have a tendency to do, and causing it taking longer. If that makes sense.

 

So, over the weekend my truck went from making 8 psi down to 4-5 psi. No codes, don't really see any dusting but it is not making the same boost. For a Stage 2 Harrop is the belt to use still the K081177HD?

Any other ideas?

 

Hmm. A bad connection at the bypass valve vacuum hose, or a cracked hose? Malfunctioning bypass valve or plugged air filter? I believe that is still the go to belt.

 

I checked the hoses on the bypass and they all look ok. SC has been on for 3 years and about 10k miles. It is always garaged so no worry about mice or any other vermin getting under the hood.

 

Did you give it the beans all the way to redline and even at redline it wasn’t making 7 or 8? What size pulley? There is also the possibility the problem is with the boost gauge and not the truck, which I think may be more likely.

 

Any changes in altitude or weather that could explain the drop?

Could be a boost leak if SC isn't properly tightened down, or a boost leak at the sensor. I had a boost leak after first installing my SC, no vacuum leak, only leak under load because two bolts weren't torqued correctly. The threads weren't clean and they weren't engaging all the way and providing clamping to hold the SC down.

 

Yeah, it was a full pull. All 512 hp are not there. 80mm pulley

 

This SC has been on for 3 years. I doubt it could loosen, plus wouldn't that cause some issues with the way it was running. Lots of air going past the MAF but only some of it getting into the cylinders? Seems it would be really rich? The WB02 is reading just like normal, around 10-11.

 

Blower to manifold? Torque specs aren't very high I believe?

 

Correct, not very high, but my threads were dirty after removing the stock intake and blowing out the holes...the bolts were torqued before they were fully seated, so there was a leak. I had to remove the blower and chase the threads to get the bolts to fully seat, and then when torqued the leak was gone.

I didn't have any issues with idling or driving under vacuum, boost was missing though (I think the weight of the SC kept it sealed until under boost). The boost pressure is after the MAF and fueling is based on wideband readings or throttle input, so it didn't make a difference like if it was efficiency-based with a MAP sensor.

 

Here you can see what I'm talking about. The passenger side long bolts weren't engaging like the driver's side. This was the sole cause of my boost leak and chasing the threads fixed my issue...probably not the same issue unless the bolts came loose for some reason.

 

Driver side coils and plugs done. Plugs looked awesome thanks to @snivilous.

 

hows it run?

 

I'm sure @reywcms will chime in after getting his rig put back together after he gets his Whipple back from being serviced.
Been running them for the past 45 days. Runs great with no misfires and seems to fire up quicker than the older coils. But like the idea that these coils were designed for forced induction engines.

 

Yep blowers still at Whipple but I’ll let everyone know soon as she’s back together. I also went down in plug gap all should be good.

 

Badass!

 

What gap? I settled on .024 with the 8ar fts coils. No issues so far

 

Went down to .020 not far off what we used to run in the blown mustang and vette days

 

Should be good to go...Last year I gapped down to .021 and it ran well. No issues on the lkh24's. I gapped them from .028 to .021, was just testing to see any difference. I did have random misfires gapped at .028 on ngk plugs.

 

Did you try larger gaps with the new 8AR coils?

 

No I didn't. I kept the same thinking of smaller gapping on forced induction to prevent misfires. Forgot the reason for stronger coil to maintain a bigger spark. Safe to try the larger gap of .030 or bigger to .045? Would it be too strong for the 3urfe?

 

Since they were 25% off I got the Toyota coils, they appear to be identical to the Lexus version.

 

Are you going back to the original stock ones? The 8arfts coils are a different design. 90919-02269 doesn't cross reference to the part number you posted.
From @Jowett

The coil arrived and is obviously different, so a little research leads to the following… For the newer generations of engines, Toyota has moved the goods up and out of the spark plug tube, it’s no longer a stick or pencil type unit, but a top mount coil. This move is for an increase in durability due the coil being able to run cooler. The engine literature also mentions these are a high energy type, but do they produce more of what we need? I suspect they might. While not listed as a Dynamic Force Series Engine, the 8ARFTS was a transitional engine that uses much of the newer DFS technologies. Just as with the run to higher performing spark plugs to prevent misfires, perhaps too with the coils?

They physically bolt in place of the stock coil, and the wire harness plug snaps right on. The harness connector is a much more durable type, and supports the wires leading into coil with a loom. Now to find out if they are truly compatible.

New type.

Old type.

 

That was not my plan, looking at my original, it looks like I threw 400 bucks away

They are for the new turbo V6, maybe they will work.

 

@Mdl Opening up the gap will be the real world test. The DILFR7K9G plugs that come in the 8AR-FTS are spec’d to have a gap of .035”/.89mm. Start with .030? It produces mid teens for boost with a max of 17 psi.

@e30cabrio Those coils are for the 3UR, 1GR, and a whole variety of the previous generation of engines. The new twin turbo V6 coils have a different number, and will not work our generation of engines. We got lucky (still to be proven as better) with the 8arfts being a crossover of technologies/compatibilities.

 

The 8AR coils do have pretty different dwell settings than the 3UR coils. Are you guys compensating for that? We have to do that either with the user defined parameters or externally in the binary as HPT does not support it in the base file definitions.

 

@JustDSM TY for chiming in, much appreciated. Longer dwell for a larger spark? Too much dwell will over heat a coil not designed for it… with the 8AR having nearly twice the charge time at 4500… this is interesting. The coils may well require a tune to realize their full capacity (if it exists).

 

@Jowett @JustDSM interesting...we will have to see what's up.