DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

Haaaaaave ya met @reywcms?

 

Lmao.


Disclaimer not responsible for significant others being upset at you lol

 

Tried finding in the thread, but a hundred plus pages, anyone running 37x13.50R18 with +25 offset?

I have Icon Billet uppers and Icon 2.5 remote resi shocks

 

I believe this was @KevinK ’s initial setup on 37s. Check out post #48 of his build thread. I’ll try to link to it, but I can’t ever get these links to work right.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/kom...h-speed-overland-rig.16989/page-2#post-420330

 

The 13.5 may need a bit of a modification. The +25 fits with the 12.5 more so. That 1” will make a difference.

 

That’s what she said

 

Thanks for the pointers, I’ll have to go read KevinKs build again.

maybe better to stick with 12.50.

are you guys getting proper articulation up and down with your set ups?

 

Yes

 

So true I am on 37 12.5

 

Still hitting the fender well on big hits yeah no liner tbinking of bigger bump stops on my MT 2 set up. same as @KevinK currently.
3.0 coilovers and 2.5 omega S2

 

I live vicariously through @reywcms so technically, yes.

 

Lol

 

That is my current setup

 

That 1 inch makes a difference with the Icon billet UCA. With the alignment shoving the tire as far forward as possible when in reverse full lock the side walls decsribed as 12.5 actually measure 13.5” and rub the UCA slightly. Never caused a problem yet

 

Ya think? With LT you are golden Mister

 

I need to check my lift sometime.

 

Anyone running +35mm Method 703s?

 

I think @bmw345 is running +35.

 

Looks like an easy offset to clear 37s. But doesn’t look like it’ll work if you add in secondary bypasses on midtravel.

 

+25 701 r18s fit Mid Travel 2.5 secondaries

 

Yeah but 18s…I’m a 17 guy haha! I do have a few +25mm options in a 17”.

 

I’ve had these for a few years now, very happy with the fitment and the finish has held up great
https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/six-speed-17-wheel?variant=31150097760356

 

Adding secondary’s would require you to add an additional shock hoop anyway. At that point, I’d assume you’re doing everything you can to gain max up travel/down travel to clear your tires.

Why limit yourself to an “easy” to fit offset?

 

Keep in mind that most 17” wheels are 8.5” wide, while the 18s are more likely 9” wide.

The only reason that matters is because it changes the relationship between offset and backspacing. Look at an online wheel offset comparison tool to see what this means, but the backspacing difference (which is what affects clearance to UCA) between a +25 18” wheel and a +35 17” wheel is NOT 10mm.

 

Good advice!

 

I just looked it up. An 8.5” wide wheel with +35mm offset will sit only 4mm CLOSER to the UCA than a 9” wide +25mm offset wheel. Less than 1/4” difference on the backspacing.

It’s the outer edge where you’re gonna see the difference. The 8.5” wide +35mm wheel will have 16mm LESS poke than the 9” wide +25mm wheel. This means more clearance for the fender well, body mount, and back side of the bumper. Quite a bit more…

 

I like my tire tucked in under the fender, and easy to fit = less BS to deal with.

 

Do you thinks I’ll be able to stuff some Patagonias 38x13.5?

What issues could I run into if I’ve already done pinch weld, BMC, pushed bumper forward, casters at 6*, trimmed front caps? What issues can I run into in the rear aside from rubbing the liners?

What potential mechanical issues can I be facing moving up an extra inch in diameter?

Grabber X3 currently sits at 80lbs per.
Patagonias will sit at 84lbs.

Going to be running the VTX rogue with these tires if I do use them. So downgrading to 17s and probably keeping the 18s aside for spare purposes until I can find another cheap set of 17s.

 

Correct, our first 37s setup was 37x13.5 on 18

I preferred the 13.5 width, but when we switched to beadlocked 0 offset 17s, the tires we wanted to run didn’t come in 13.5 width.
The beadlocks also made the 0 offset into a -5 offset (verified by measuring the new backspacing after OMF converted the Methods)

This guy fucks.

You’re gonna have to take your current setup out someplace where you can articulate the suspension completely and cycle the steering from lock to lock. Measure everywhere the tire gets close to metal and plan on rubbing or trimming.

Also bear in mind the different shoulder profiles of the old and new tires (where the tread meets the sidewall). Some tires have a very wide shoulder, and some slope off toward the sidewall sooner.