What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'm just going to bolt it to the framerail as a salute and sign of solidarity to my homeys and their struggles.

 

Finally got around to replacing a few things. Started with the alternator but wanted to replace the serp belt tensioner and idler pulley as they were making noise. Bought the alternator a while ago and went with the Denso 1065 which I think is the bigger one? I forget as it’s been many months and just sitting on my tool bench.


Had to remove the left and center timing belt covers to get the tensioner off though. New tensioner pulley was quite a bit smaller for some reason but the part number checked out.

Good news was the belt looked great but there was a coolant leak and I’m stupid and don’t know where it’s from.


I also got rid of my stupid washer fluid sensor dash light. A replacement sensor was $90-$120 so I just clipped the wires to the sensor and left them dangling. Light will never come on again.

 

Well it's been 2 hours but we're getting there. Pretty sure it's all wired correctly. Good thing I have fire extinguishers lol. But I know have non phone dependant GPS, which is nice. I got the antenna on the windshield in the 3rd pic




Now I just have to figure out the back up camera wiring.

Also I suck at/ hate electrical/ wiring work

 

Electrical taped connections?! Tell me it ain't so!

On the pulley: They updated the part to use a smaller pulley which is off-center just enough so the right-hand edge of the pulley wheel is still catching the belt at the same way. If you're interested in the exhaustive explanation I can find it for you on here.

On the leak, I was going to tell you it was the ring gasket or whatever that goes here, but then I noticed all of the pink cake over to the right, under the TB, and I'm wondering if it's not leaking at the throttle body passthru? See the mesh/hose the top arrow here is sitting in front of? IIRC, that comes up from the coolant neck to the left, then pushes hot coolant into the TB to the right of the arrow, then comes out the front of the TB and off to wherever. Can you shoot another pic up under the TB to see where the pink settles? I have no doubt someone else on here will know where the leak is.

​

 

Anyone know what this plug is for? I found it tucked down in the way back of my console area

 

External amp connector? Dunno, can’t tell you offhand.

 

Need to see the wire colors.

 

It temporary I gotta make sure it's all hooked up right. I'll dual crush end them once I know what needs fixed. Lol.

As bad as I am at this shit now, in high school I was thee guy to see about these things. Built volume to speaker matched boxes, amp and head installs. I could take a 12in and make it hit like a 15.

I used to be a no think wiz bang at that shit. Noooooow I'm like a Marine trying to explain the difference between the purple Crayola and the violet crayola

 

I honestly have no clue. I honed in on the wire that appears to be pink with light blue stripe ("P-L" in the 2000 model EWD) and the only place I see that wire is used is with ignition coils and with the combo meter (gauge cluster) for speed. I don't see any 16-pin or 20-pin matching that connector at a once-over. I'm 10mins deep in it at this point, and I'm calling it quits. Gotta crash out soon.

 

Thank you for the time.

Also here's why I taped everything. I tested the dimmer switch, nothing happens. Tried the reverse camera, nothing happened. Turned the lights on, and the reverse camera came on.

 

I'm getting a pretty big clunk from the front end when backing up down hill and turning the steering wheel. I have read some things saying that the ABS does this on Tundra, but I don't have ABS LOL.

It sounds like my front axle 4WD actuator is not coming out of 4WD and my front axle is binding or something. I only hear the transfer case when going in/out of 4WD, but not really hearing the front end. Honestly, I'm at a loss here as I don't have an error light on the 4WD or anything.

The other reason I think this may be the issue, is I have kinda just started doing 4HI on a regular basis to try to make sure things are working, etc.

Other thought were brakes somehow loose - not likely - no signs of issues, bolts tight.

Or . .just did the lift - I can re-torque everything in the AM.

Gonna do diff and xfer case fluids ASAP to make sure they are clean/fresh/new and are/were full.

 

While you are under there doing the front dif fluid just reach back and grab/turn the front drive shaft. If it spins freely (In 2wd) then your front diff is not engaged, likewise its stuck on engaged if you can't.
The dash 4x4 lights only tell you what position the transfer case is in (two switches on the actuator). I don't think there is any indicator for the front dif actuator position.

 

I figured they changed the pulley size with other modifications so thanks. That makes sense. Just scared me when I compared the two and had to double check part numbers.
I guess I can pull the TB and see if it’s leaking from one of those spots. But it’s all put back together and I can’t get a decent picture now. I’ll tackle it another day. Still have u joints and a center bearing to mess with next weekend.

 

Is your stock amp still behind the climate controls? It's like someone unplugged the amp to run the basic toyota harness but left the amp in there.

 

You're correct. I was wondering about that myself because the light green and turqouise wiring were in that connector. I swear I warned @VR6T about pulling the amp ahead of time, but maybe I got everyone but him.

@VR6T first off, illumination lead doesn't work, IIRC. And you have an unused piece of dead hardware (OEM amp) still in your dash. It's the thing on the left in this pic. The two harnesses you used for your radio are normally plugged into the amp, shown on the left here. The extra harness is what goes from your amp to the factory head unit. Yoink the factory amp from your dash. Pic of where the amp is located in the 2nd pic. 1st pic here shows the spare 3rd harness in your pic, plugged into an OEM radio.

​

 

I've had this experience with most radios but my touch screen Sony unit in the truck works just fine with illumination wire and I have the same configuration.

 

Thanks @BroHon - Wheel and front drive shaft turn freely, so, I think we can count that out as an issue.

Given all the checks/etc, I have narrowed it down to the front right CV Axle. This is the "good one" LOL. Boots look good, so hoping I can just regrease, but if already popping this loudly, who knows. I feel 0 play in it by hand, but . . I could use higher torque on the hands. Only happens when I brake, though, so . .if CV Axle, you would think it would pop, not as loudly, and every rotation when turning.

Taking the truck down to @BashFab this weekend for the sliders! Just want to make sure its good to go

 

I mean, if it only happens when braking, and if you're in 4WD, it could be an indication one of your calipers is clamping harder than others, forcing that wheel to turn less, resulting in binding. It would be nearly identical to the conditions you run into turning while driving slowly in 4WD on dry pavement. IIf one wheel has no way to slip, and you're in 4WD, the CV binds. But if it's happening in 2WD ... color me stumped.

 

Yes, definitely in 2WD. I haven't checked the control arm / alignment bolts yet and that was just done. I'll keep workin on it Thx for the feedback!

 

Boooooooo

 

Either someone is out to get you or you’re not having much luck lately. Wasn’t it just last week you had the puncture on the front left tire?

 

yup

 

Like a rented mule.

 

Ooh I bet that brown wire is the dimmer

 

Awww man, better dump that thing before you get the 3rd!

I'll give you a Honda civic and 2 chickens for it... good egg layers too

 

Plugged. A little pissant piece of a nail

 

Just put 4 of these in the cart

$173 Thunderer LT285/75R16 E RANGER A/TR 285 75 16 2857516 Tire

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GMB7V21

 

you order them? I've been eyeing these for a while

 

Nice and chunky, damn