General Supercharger Thread

Yea push to start. I don't think I've ever moved the door on anything before, but lesson learned. The last flash the laptop was at 10%, Max battery saver, raining and lightning out, I was going you have to be shitting me, the last flash and everything is trying it's best to make this not work and then it fails and needs to be flashed again lmao

 

I've dealt with this with early 2000's vehicles, mostly with key programing. Some of the sequences are pretty humorous; as in "Who the hell thought of this?"

 

I hate it when during long days I forget to turn on my power inverter to keep the laptop charged, then just happen to notice during a flash that the battery is in the single digits. I usually try to remember to crack a window if needed, but if it's in the middle of a flash, I literally "sweat it out".

 

That's what bricked mine. Laptop battery was low and windows said night-night halfway through the flash

 

When I bricked mine, I think it was that my truck battery was below threshold. So yep, lots of things to be cautious about. You usually don't want to have someone jabbering in your ear and asking questions.

 

I’m so paranoid I make sure everything is charged, use a battery charger, remove the IC pump fuse, turn off all lights and accessories, turn off the head unit and don’t touch a damn thing or move a muscle while flashing lol

 

I don't have an ounce of experience w/this and may be talking out my a$$, buuuut... One of the things I've noticed w/my '21 is all the TSS warning beeps, sensors and such are actually quite freakin' overwhelming; almost to the point of white noise. It's my understanding that when you open/close a door (especially when the vehicle is running) that Toyota had programmed a series of long beep tones to sound off to 'remind you' to check and verify that you haven't left anyone behind in the vehicle w/it running (such as a child that could get into the driver's and drive off)... not sure if this reasoning is true or not, but either way I thinking it has to have something to do w/how those door sensors are tied to the ECU as part of the TSS.

 

I was wondering that too. Since the gauge cluster on the newer trucks shows which door is open, that makes me think it's tied into the rest of the system. Where as the older trucks it's just a light on the dash that the door is open, so they may be more resilient due to the truck being "dumber". All the chimes you mentioned certainly are annoying. Like heaven forbid you shut the truck off with the door open, it screams non stop until you at least close it, and then if you reopen it that's fine? Stupidest thing ever.

 

The 'tie in' seems to be problematic for a lot of other sensor based systems in the newer trucks that wasn't an issue in the previous years... Another example is the sonar parking sensors. I have them in my '08, but apparently they are an isolated computer module that is tied in the sensors and a singular display that sits above the center channel speaker.

My '21 Pro does not have the sonars... I saw Casey was tinkering around w/wiring up a BSM set up or something similar on his '21 Pro, and so I asked him if it was possible to use sensors, bumper, etc. from a different trim level '21 to incorporate sonar in our Pros (I'm pretty sure the Canadian Pros have them). He said that upon checking the wiring diagrams and such that it appears the parking sonar feature for the newer trucks are wired into the main ECU, and that to add them we'd have to go through a whole ECU swap out rabbit hole and it would be a freakin' mess

So, yeah this is definitely one area where advancement of technology and the integration of all systems is handcuffing to anyone looking to customize or troubleshoot issues...

 

The older 2.5 gens still communicate door status to the can bus. it doesn't display individual door open/close on the dash, but some aftermarket head units will, so it's in the system.

 

The Optitron dash cluster starting in the '07 Limiteds tell you which door is open. As a matter of fact, I swapped in a Limited cluster in my SR5 and it now indicates which door is open. Now with the Push-to-Start vehicles, when you leave the vehicle running and jump out with the fob in your pocket, to run back into the house or whatever, they make a ruckus. All the features that vehicles come with these days, and the way that they're integrated with each other, for whatever reason whether it's as a fail-safe or a security issue, or to keep some derp from poaching their baby by leaving them in a hot car, we have to deal with them. @snivilous found another quirk for us to add to our notes, thank you.

 

I have an '18 Sequoia cluster running CAN translation off a Teensy, it shows door/hood/rear door open status. Seems that indicates the data is there in gen 2 also.

 

Just noticed XAT has injector listed for the 3urfe now.

https://xatracing.com/choose-your-engine/3ur-fe-3ur-fbe-2007-5-7-v8/Victory-Fuel-Injectors.html

 

870cc seems like a nice cushion but still have to deal with pigtails.

 

Not a Toyota but cooling is cooling.

What do we make of this?

Gauge painted in the middle, live data says 221, actual thermometer not above 170. came down rapidly after I shut it off.

 

Could be a bad sensor, or the rad gauge could be off...need a tie-breaker

 

My first question would be to ask if the readings were taken from the same location . . ? Another thought would be to ask if both thermometers were calibrated to the same baseline. Either one could be off by a large margin.

 

The sensor is on the side of the radiator & is new. The thermometer is on the frame of the radiator, as close to the sensor as I can get.

Middle is supposed to be happy, under the 3rd line is ok, mayhem above the 3rd line (purportedly) as it is a new 6k motor I'm not taking chances.

 

So the thermometer isn't in the coolant, just attached to the outside of the radiator?

221 seems a little high for middle of the gauge...maybe the reading is false?

 

To me, this wouldn't be accurate at all, but I'll defer to the more familiar.

 

Right, I can't get to coolant, it is 12+ inches below the cap. I can slightly get it on a small "puddle" in the bleeder but that shows bottom of the range, never moves the needle.

I have taken thermal laser readings, I get up to 141 at the thermostat housing, 102 at the outlet of the radiator on the hose. As it is 109+++ ambient and I don't want to warp the aluminum head, I;m being crazy careful.

 

Ya, I've noticed that with some analogue gauges, like the Tundra cluster, the needles aren't keyed to the mechanism (servo) that moves them, there's just a smooth round post that the needle's round receptical fits on the end of.

 

I don't think external temp is going to be accurate enough to compare, you would need another sensor in the coolant to compare to. Best option is to get another sensor, if reads the same at least you have a spare.

 

I would only trust the sensor in the coolant. Get another sensor and swap it out, if it reads the same then I would believe it.

The sensor location is important, if it's in the factory spot then they put it there for a reason so I would use that. Any other measurement I would take with a big grain of salt. If the sensor is new I would tend to believe it also, if it's a fresh engine then there's a variety of things that could be happening. Bubble, system isn't bled correctly, water pump doing weird shit, radiator doing weird shit, etc. On my Hilux I have to jack up the rear axle since the engine is mounted at an angle and the bleed port is at the back of the head so the front of the head gets an air bubble.

 

The thermometer is 13 degrees low.





I'd think the gauge in the dash is getting its data from the sensor telling the Autel it is at 221. I also think over 220 I'd have a warped head.

I'll order a sensor & not drive it.

 

I dunno? I saw 241 climbing a loooong grade dragging an RV.

Still running just fine.

I was stressing pretty bad when I saw that number on SG2.

 

It's running fine. I lasered the thermostat housing not over 145, under 103 at the outlet hose of the radiator.

I doubt it's gaining 80+ degrees inside and losing over 90 in the radiator.

People on BMW forums "say" iron block/ aluminum head motors of this type have warped heads at 220.

Dunno.

I appreciate all input gentleman!

 

Thanks for the catch can link @snivilous! Run the final lines once everything’s back together

 

Almost lost my Tundra 2 weeks ago. Came home from vacation to find this in my driveway. A wicked storm with some tornados blew through the area and made a huge mess. If we weren't away on vacation, my Tundra would have 100% been parked right under the tree. Thankfully she was tucked away in the garage with the Camaro. And luckily it was a pine and split apart easily not causing too much damage to the house. And my wife even asked me to leave the truck outside so it looks like we were home. Thank god I went with my gut and said it's safer in the garage.

 

Glad it was ok.