General Supercharger Thread

not sure if this was asked or answered but why not also run an external intercooler as well?

 

The external unit is the heat exchanger like a radiator. air to water setup essentially

 

Thinking out loud here. It makes sense, block the heat coming up from the valley plate, butttt. 2, things that stand out. 1. Just like it keeps heat from heating the SC, I would venture to say it also keeps heat in the SC since the blanket doesn't let it dissipate the heat. 2. The whole engine compartment is pretty much the same heat around the engine. So blocking heat from the bottom doesn't do much when the whole SC is basically in an oven.

 

I would think the best bet would be a thin piece of foam/insulation, don't fill the whole valley. That will keep the engine heat away, while also giving the blower room for airflow under it and pull heat off. But I also suspect the difference is negligible either way since the whole thing is an oven like you said.

Now if the whole blower was sealed up from the rest of the engine bay, then I bet there'd be a big difference. Like the setups with the blower sticking out the hood, do that and insulate below it so it's not an aluminum block in an oven, I bet that really drops IATs.

 

Does anyone know the length of the intake manifold/supercharger mounting studs at the front of the engine?

 

Is the w/ end tanks, or just the core?

 

38-40mm from my shitty scan:

 

With end tanks

 

Appreciate it, but I need the total length, including what's threaded into the heads. I can probably remove mine with the blower still installed, but wanted to see if anyone had the info before I tried. The spacers came with screws to replace the studs, but I would rather keep the studs to make it easier to locate the supercharger and prevent slipping during reinstallation.

Probably going with one of the stainless steel options here:
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/threaded-rods/setup-studs~/

 

I can see the insulation being more beneficial for a downflow blower. It keeps the manifold/pan where the heat exchanger is located and the last part the air touches before entering the engine from getting as hot from the valley, meanwhile the rotor pack is mounted up above and dissipates heat to the engine bay as normal. On an upflow you can’t really insulate the area around the heat exchanger (the lid) so when you insulate the bottom you’re just insulating the rotor pack.

 

Toyota was nice enough to supply this info, but only because there is a part # split.

 

Here’s the 49.5mm stud, about 13mm threads into the block. 38mm is pretty close.

 

I don’t think any level of insulation will make a material difference

 

I think it could have a measurable benefit combined with the manifold spacers having observed testing others have done such as this. I would say 10-20 degrees F, 1.5 degrees timing and 50hp ain’t nothin. https://www.hellcat.org/threads/vid...induction-interchillers-spacer-plates.226815/

 

Perfect, thank you!

 

Super charger gas millage? tell me this ain't true LOL. I am on my second tank of 93 from Costco.

 

I'm lucky to get 9 city

 

I was going to ask you about mileage

my hwy miles improved a smidge after the blower

 

6726 LOL. Still in diapers if you ask me.

 

Dash gas mileage and estimates are off if you've replaced the injectors, the computer doesn't account for that or the additional airflow from the SC, and the numbers are incorrect. Only way is to manually do the math every fill up, or use a ScanGauge to display a recalculated value.

 

in use the scanguage 3

it is very accurate once you run the first tank

 

Yeah I am about to get the ScanGauge 3 if I find an elegant way to install it. I like non-intrusive stuff.

$270 ScanGauge 3 All New Touch Screen OBD2 Code Reader, Digital Gauges & Trip Computer with WiFi Updates SG3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFBQZZMC?smid=A3NXQNUYKZG65G

 

Reality:

 

every time someone mentions a sequoia, I miss our 2006

it was our best vehicle.

 

Scale the injector flow. You have 535s now, stock is like 440, so 535/440 = 1.21. Divide your read out by 1.21 and I bet it's pretty close. ie like 13.x

 

so i seem to get into boost Very fast/easy. it doesnt seem like it has the power/kick it had after i got the tune.
we have traveled with our tow camper. im not getting any codes etc. ive checked all fittings, bolts etc
not sure if im getting way to used to it or i actually have something weird going on

 

Disconnect the battery and make it learn your drive style over again?

 

I get into boost very quickly. A lite jab in part throttle can hit 4/5 psi easily. I have PE come in at 25 though so I dump some fuel to combat part throttle boost. What's your A/F when getting on it?

 

i have an OTT tune so i dont see 10s at any boost. i usually wont see that unless im in higher boosts

 

I guess as long as you don't have knock. I had knock in part throttle especially in mountains so I've richened it up. I aim for mid 10's but will sometimes ramp in lower depending on load.