Getting to Level on Bilstein 6112's for Access Cabs

I definitely don’t plan on getting rid of them since I’ll loose some money if I do, so I might do some work on her today by moving it down a clip on both sides and see how she sits, at most I’ll go down two clips.

I’m glad I’m documenting it though, since I’ve seen trucks just like mine leveled out on 6112’s, see below when I found one last week at work on the 6112/5160 leveling kit looking sweet. Pretty sure it was on stock UCA’s as well:

 

It looks like you're at 6/8 which you can see in Billy's instructions, you shouldn't be doing unless you're in a DC. Billy says if you were in a DC, that would give you 2" lift. For the 4WD trucks, at least. But their measures don't make sense to me, I would expect more lift on an AC than a DC, inverse of what they show. They show AC 4WD as getting 0.3" less per bump-up.

If it were me, personally, I'd probably want to drop down to 6/4 instead of using 8/6.

 

But what settings is that truck running?

 

Beats me I didn’t check since I had no clue this was my issue, but maybe I’ll go hunt it down in the big parking lot on Monday before I do any unnecessary work

 

Or I’ll just give it a try today since I have some free time! I’ll let y’all know what I do, just running around grabbing stuff for when I move back to Gainesville Saturday.

 

I can try 6/4, but I’m just worried about clearance issues with the tires when they go on Thursday since the recommended lift is 2 inches according to almost all read ups for 285/70/17r fitment.

 

I hear you. I think, given your year AC and its specs, you could look toward @FirstGenVol. I want to say he's only lifted 1.75" up front with his ICON c/o setup. And with the alignment he's running, he only rubs (frame) at full lock in reverse, but he did need to remove his mudflaps.

Tire fitment is subjective. It varies wildly from multiple factors, including backspace/offset of your wheel, your alignment (caster esp.), which tire you choose as in how aggressive its tread is and whether it's true to diameter in size, and its width.

Lift height helps continue your clearance during compression events.

 

My goal is to just avoid as much unnecessary rub as possible while achieving level and have it road ready for when I move on Saturday. I don’t mind persuading the fender well with a sledge hammer or removing the mud flaps

 

my newish to me (2002 ac 4wd) came with overload springs on back and the back is very lifted compared to front.......since I have never driven a tundra b4 this one, I dont know what good brakes are....guess i will have to research what your talking about

 

Think I’m gonna tackle the work today and see how it goes. I found the thread that you were talking about this kind of issue @shifty` and the number charts don’t make any sense, why would a heavier, DC cab be able to go up 2.6 inches and at the same setting for an AC only go up 1 inch? So I might set it to 6/4 and see from there. I’m going to do some more research before I begin.

Gonna follow this video to do the spring compression too, thought it was a nifty little knowledge nugget:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HQNf3te9RSM

 

Bilstein states driveline geometry issues/binding, but we dont know if its that or....they only performed true QC on a DC set-up if that makes sense.

 

It sounds like, with the 5100s and 6112s, the most difficult part is popping off the circlips to drop them to another setting, without deforming the circlip.

 

Moving the both cutout points to their desired grove and the rest of the ring with a pair of pliers made it easy


And an unfortunate casualty:


Im going to go for 6/4 and see how things look. Job so far has been pretty easy so worst case scenario I just move up. Time for the passenger side!

 

Just need the right pliers.

Wilde Tool G409.NP Angle Tip Lock Ring Pliers, 9 inch with Satin Finish

$22 Wilde Tool G409.NP Angle Tip Lock Ring Pliers, 9" with Satin Finish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GWF4Q6D

 

Oh, I've got some, just don't expect others to have. Same thing I used on my UBJ retention clips and similar.

 

So decompression was super easy, both are ready to be compressed again, but the guy in the video picked shorter springs and his struts had enough clearance to slide back into place, bolt into the lower control arm, and jack back up to compress the spring. I don’t have enough clearance.

Anyone got bright ideas for moving the lower control arm down more to gain some clearance to get the bottom strut bolt into place?

 

Have seen some use a bottle jack to push UCA arm down but haven't done that myself. Could get some loaner spring compressors. I got 2 pairs and used 3 / shock instead of 2 to compressor the stock coils off the truck (less load on each but tricky to get placement). Even with struts fully assembled it took a bit of maneuvering the LCA to get the lower shock mount aligned to insert the bolt with sway bar detached but alignment cams not loosened.

 

Ok, I see the swaybar links are out, so that's a plus.

I was able to muscle down the LCA with a leg while I slid the shock into place. I do not, cannot, will not ever recommend putting a jack under a shock. Assuming the top bolt of the shock is spun down to where it was when you pulled it off, there should be ample room to slide in the shock if you force the LCA downward. It may take some muscle but it should be do-able. It may be wise to pre-spin your shock end (eye end) to line up proper ahead of time. Or phone a friend.

 

Came across the same guy who did it again on a Tundra, BOTTLE JACK W

 

Yup, effectively the same thing, but without using your massive quads.

All those years of skateboarding early in life paid off when I was doing my suspension. I'd probably throw a 1x4 or plate of steel between the end of botle jack and frame to spread the force being applied.

 

PS - just make sure you don't do anything that would prevent you from getting the jack back out again!!!

 

I feel high so happy I got this shit to work Bottle Jack is out and it’s time to clean up and go to the auto store to grab a new strut bolt

 

Got a message back from Josh this morning and I’ll update everything accordingly as I get more info

I told him that the measuring conventions don’t make a lot of sense, because if stock height is at a 1 inch rake in the front, then I’m getting a 3.25 inch lift at clips 8/6. That’s according to measurements from rear to front, but my rear could be sagging some due to old leaf springs and the camper shell, though I don’t see it being a significant load.

 

Agan, this is what I warn everyone about: Online vendors often know DC better than our AC or even RC, unless the info is widely established online for AC/RC, they'll rely on what the vendor says or they just assume they're the same as DC in lift, which just isnt the case.

Think about this realistically:

• With 5100s, look at the matrix: AC is consistently higher at the same setting
• With 6112, it makes zero sense, why would the AC be consistently lower, to the tune of 0.3" or more, knowing it's a lighter truck, and completely contrarian to what we've established as true with the 5100? (a strut is a strut is a strut)
• What Josh is echoing is basically what is in the documentation from Bilstein
• I argue Bilstein has a fuckup in their documentation and they're actually posting values 1" lower than what they should be
• Yes, I realize that's a huge mistake to make on their part, but I'm suspecting you're going to be at 2" riding on 6/4 settings, which is the value in their chart for 4WD/AC/V8 plus 1"

I'm thinking the AC/V8/4WD values should be more like...

#6/#4 = 2"
#5/#3 = 1.7"
#4/#2 = 1.3"
#3 #1 = 0.8"

Again, it makes zero sense how the AC trucks would get LESS lift than a DC. This flies in the face of all logic we've seen with any lift kit for these trucks. It HAS TO BE a typo.

​

 

And actually, now I look at it ... The DC and Sequoia are supposed to have more-similar front suspension than the DC has to the AC/RC. Maybe I'm crazy, but look at the disparity, settings of #6/#4 on 6112 gives Sequoia almost double the lift of a DC? And more than double what an AC gets?

Looking at the 5100 chart, that seems more realistic of a layout to me. All-in-all, I suspect Bilstein's documentation is not correct. It'll be interesting to see where you're at once you drop to #6/#4.

 

@ shifty totally agree, thats why I want to eventuslly get my truck on 4 wheel scale, that way we will have better idea how much weight the front suspension supports on different 1st gen configurations. Only other thing I would like to research is dimension of front end suspension componets to verify email from bilstein. But , i agree
..most likely ovetsight on their part.

 

Does anybody know the specs of the lower shock mount bolt? I found the part number (90105-A0013) but it’s going to arrive after my estimated alignment date (Thursday) so I need to find a suitable replacement in the meantime I can pick up today.

Should I take it to the Ace Hardware monkeys so they can help me figure it out?

 

cut off wheel for the pinch weld

 

I would take old one to a Fastenal and get highest grade for temp use only. Do you mean pitch, thread count and dimensions? Let me try to find it for ya.

 

Doesn’t really matter as long as it provides a decent enough fit in the meantime, I’ll order a replacement part and swap it out when all is said and done.

Take a look at the part number (90105-A0013)