Power Door Lock Fob & Autostarter Reccomendations

Hey all,

The truck I bought came with one bare metal non-factory key so I have no fob to unlock the doors. I'm 99% sure it has power locks though because the key unlocks both doors when I open the drivers side.

Anyhow, looking to get a key fob for power locks and an autostarter before Winter rolls around. Does anyone have reccomendations for all of that? Shop down the road will do one for $600 by a company called Viper with "two-way" communication between the fob. Apparently Compustar is another competitor?

Also what are peoples thoughts on keyless entry and push-start mods? I've seen a few of those floating around. Seems cool but what are the implications for security? Seems easily spoofable unless the tech is pretty robust.

 

No to all the fancy shit. Just get Keyless. There's 2 routes.

1) go to dealer, spend the $60 and get a fob based on your VIN. It will have the correct/corresponding FCC ID#. You just gotta link it or they might even do it for you depending on the dealer.
You then take that FCC ID# and go to scAmazon or fleabay and get fobs with matching ID #'s

2) take out ashtray, see red box, remove red box, get FCC ID# off Redbox. Repeat scamazon and fleabay tips above.


This has been discussed and you should be able to search/find the pics of the Redbox and how to get to it.

 

@DrogueDonkey it's covered in this thread, which everyone should read, see red and bold red text below: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Electrical stuff ... and keys

• Yes, adding factory power locks and power windows into a non-power truck is 100% possible. Ideally, get pre-loaded donor doors with door harness intact and door cards that match in color, and gut them for parts, or swap doors. It's plug and play.
• No, adding a full DC one-piece sliding rear window is not a bolt-in experience for AC and RC owners, the DC cab rear is different from the AC/RC cab. It may be possible to install the 3pc AC slider into a RC, since the cabs are similar dimensionally, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet.
• A majority of these trucks came with keyless entry (at least). If you're having OEM or aftermarket alarm problems or and/or you're considering adding an aftermarket alarm, first check if you an OEM unit (more info in next bullets), then consult this alarm flowchart to decide if it's necessary. Aftermarket alarms can be the devil, a problem waiting to happen. It doesn't matter how good the brand, most start to fail or glitch within 10-15 years. I used to install them for a living (Avital, Clifford FWIW) ... been there, done that. It's even worse with modern offerings, take this advice: Stick with OEM, if you can make it work.
• For OEM keyless/security, earlier trucks used Toyota's RS3000 alarm/keyless system, which had a limit of 4 simultaneously programmed remotes, and providing no warnings if you wanted to program a 5th fob. Later models used the RS3200 system. RS3000 is a bitch to program. RS3200 is much easier, but some Double Cab and potentially Sequoia used immobilizer keys, and a different programming process than you may find elsewhere online. RS3000 and RS3200 remotes ARE NOT interchangeable. Manuals for the RS3000 and RS3200 systems can be found here, and the 'special' programming instructions for some Double Cab found here. Always enter programming mode to 'clear' all previously programmed remotes before trying to add new ones, so you don't hit the 4 remote control limit! You can absolutely program new remotes on your own, there's a thread about RS3000 units here (since it's so difficult but read the whole thread), RS3200 programming is here.
• RS3000 remotes have an identified issue where the metal contact under the bottom will scrape through the PCB and produce weird results, including shorter range (more info). Just be aware of this. If you're having issues and battery doesn't solve it, crack open the transmitter and inspect the PCB.
• Some dealers, especially in the southwest, gratuitously installed aftermarket alarms from a company named "KARR" at a nice hefty 4-digit upcharge, even when vehicles had the OEM alarm/keyless system installed. These are a constant source of electrical woes for people and were often hackishly installed. The boxes for them are typically found zip-tied up under the steering column area, or shoved into kick panels
• AC/RC trucks don't use transponder/chipped keys (immobilizer). Some later-model DC and Sequoias do. Just something to be aware of if you need to swap keys or can't start the truck.
• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics), or into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

 

2006 Tundra I just bought came with one metal key. I heard the seller say something about "remote start" and she will "look for the fob." Her husband is in dire health so I'm not expecting her to look that hard. She has much more pressing concerns.

I hope to have mine in the dealership shop for a timing belt change, I'll ask about new keys and fobs then.

 

They will charge you out the fucking nose at the dealer for fobs and programming, it's a job you can do yourself easily on the '04+ trucks using RS3200. The earlier-years using RS3000 it's not the case, programming process is stupid without Techstream access. All the info you need to know is in my last reply, in either case, for programming

Since you have a DC (double cab), you need to pay special attention to the fact there are two sets of possible programming instructions. And also note that some DCs had immobilzer, so you may need a special key. If you're not replacing the keys, ignore this.

 

thanks for asking this, was just thinking about this myself for my new to me 2002. My 4runner has an auto start by nustart. it was 450 installed and programmed. it works my door locks as well.

now this tundra....I have no idea if it has auto locks...it came with only one key. but it will get an auto start soon, it is almost critical up here

 

It's pretty easy to look up in the dash for the unit. The info you need is in my reply above, one of those linked threads specifically for the RS3000 system.

 

@3bears Let me know what you end up going with! I don't think I have it on my profile, but I'm in Anchorage. Some might consider an autostart "fancy stuff" but up here its pretty much essential... Plus I consider it important for vehicle health. I want my motor properly warmed up after its been cold soaked in 20 below for the last ten hours...

@shifty` Thanks for the link to the info! I'll take a look at that asap.

Anybody have auto starter recommendations or experience?

 

ive been looking at other threads and i dont think mine has an alarm but will look under dash. One thread I read said if it has an alarm it has a little toyota security thing on the dash like my 4runner does, to left of steering wheel. or have a small blinking light.. I dont have either
Another thread said if you have power windows and locks then it has the function of remote locks
this thread was helpful too and post 19 has the little thing I was talking about 2000 Tundra SR5 Keyless Entry | Toyota Tundra Forum

also I called around friday afternoon 600 must be the common price for the viper system. nustart ranged from 450 to 600 depending on options. I had a nustart put in my 4runner that replaced a failed Compustart ( i think it was) 1/4 mile range one 2 way remote, one one way remote.was about 400. could get 2 two ways, 1/2 mile range and even cell phone as a remote. Up here too many places with out cell coverage, and a co-worker has a viper with cell remote and he says the range is poor

 

Mine is a 4 door with power windows and locks, I guess it originally came with keyless entry and remote starting...I'm not too big on either of those as I grew up in the 70's and 80's when such was not common. I would like to either have the system disabled or get a way to turn the alarms off for when I somehow set it off.

 

I was never a big fan either untill I moved to alaska when you have a month at minus 40...now its remote start, heaters for block tranny and battery, built in trickle charger minus 60 antifreeze....lots of the big boy diesel guys and truckers just let equipment run 24 hours