What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

295/75r16 if you wanna cut some shit up.
I don't know what all the fuss is about E rated tires. I didn't even know my tire rating til just now. Lol
Still don't know WTF it means. Nor do I really care.

 

Lots of belts, deeper rubber usually, and an extra 20# per tire in weight. Stiff. Made to carry more weight.

 

So I have MT EXP'S 265/70/16 and they are E. They are sensitive to tire preasure. I run them at 34/34 and dutifully rotate. I think they are technically 32's basically. No rub w -4.5 backspacing. They dont ride like road tire but have been excellant for price -$160 tire on sale. I have 40K miles on them and no vibratiom 0-100 MPH. With the cheap pro comps , they are two pounds lighter per wheel than stock goodyears w steel rims ( im talking weight of rims and tires combined).

Most importantly I like the 10 ply. Hell i pulled out a 1.×25" T20 screw last night. I have yanked several screws out of these tires, never had a leak.

I think they are way pricier now but I would buy them again for price I paid. I have never gotten it stuck and had it up to shafts in mud several times.

For my needs I would not go any larger.

 

If you drive enough rough dirt roads or carry enough weight, load range starts to matter. I'm surrounded by miles and miles and miles of rough dirt roads, and for many people, whether because of work or play or both, they're out banging down dirt roads almost daily. 60+ miles away from pavement. Most have learned E rating is the only way to go, at least if you drive a full size.

I did fine for years in my Tacoma with C rated, but once the tread started getting low, I'd start getting flats. E are more ply (10 ply), and especially higher ply sidewall. And yeah, I found with the same exact tire, P rated vs LT E the tread was way deeper on LT E. If you only drive pavement and gravel, you don't need them unless you haul a LOT of weight. But yeah, sounds like with some tire sizes you don't have a choice.

There is absolutely a difference in how they feel on the road, but opinions seem to vary...maybe the tire brand matters, maybe it's the more the person driving. I don't know. I had E tires for about two weeks, and didn't like them. I ended up going with P rated tires, and I may regret that if I start getting flats...we'll see. Sometimes you gotta compromise to get the size you want. My P rated XL (extra load) tires weigh about 10 pounds less per tire than the equivalent LT E.

Generally, P are 2 ply. C are 6 ply. D are 8. E are 10. For me, C is the sweet spot between weight, ride comfort and durability (aka not constantly getting flats).

 

I gotta add, my FGT isnt my daily and only used for camping and offroading. So E rated makes perfect sense for me and any harshness or extra road noise is totally worth it for me. The extra insurance of an E when in the middle of nowhere is nice to have.

 

Exactly.

I waffled and tormented myself over what to get when I found I couldn't get the tire I wanted in the load range I wanted. I drive a lot of dirt. But even driving dirt multiple times a week, sometimes 30 miles from pavement, I'm still 90% highway, and my Tundra is my daily driver. That's why I like LT C. But I couldn't get it...so it was LT E, P XL, or go with a tire brand I didn't want. Should have gone with whatever tire brand offered my size in LT C, but here I am.

I'll find out how well they do. I've been looking into trading my pull behind camper for a slide-in pop-up camper, and if I do that, I'll need to get new tires to accommodate 1,000 pounds in the back of my truck. So then I'll actually have a reason to put up with LT Es.

 

Same. I didn't even look at load though. I saw 255x85r16, known brand, and good reviews and clicked buy.

 

Yea i wanted that size too, so when i saw it was in E i didnt mind. I just wanted 33 skinnies!

 

Wants 33 skinnies, loves skinny jeans and man buns....... Oh look at that, Californian...... Big surprise

 

Hahaha, ill give you that, that was funny. But...I wanna get out of california, and man buns are the ugliest things ever. Besides I shave my head lol

 

I'm running E-rated and similar tire pressure to everyone one else. I think 35/34 front/rear. I haul weight at times and am not worried about a flat when going off pavement (which is often). Sure a little harsh or louder than passenger tires, but no biggie.

 

Why not split the difference with 275's? I didn't realize no one made C range tires in 16".

I'm running C range 33's and plan to keep doing so on the next set. Never had an issue popping a tire off pavement(yet).

 

There’s like 2 tires in 275/70/16. Not 33” though.

 

Right. Maybe I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about 285's(33) vs much smaller 265's. I was asking if you could split the difference to get bigger than 265 while avoiding the E range issue.

 

Nothing due to TS Debby but I did put a new heating element and thermal switch in my dryer.

 

I was. Practically zero options in 275. I’ll probably just say fuck it and go with the 285s in E.

 

This drawer has been kicking my ass all week.


I think the worst of it is done and I can get some details dialed in tomorrow.

 

Looks like you won the fight though! Looks great. Do you put a degree or 2 of angle on that for drainage?
Looks like it's Dale approved How can that face not make a dude smile hahaha

 

I didn't even think about drainage, park uphill

The drawer box has a channel all the way around it that gets a bulb seal, and there's some intentional geometry with the recessed door so any water has to make two 90 degree turns before the seal. Ill snag some pictures of all that for the build thread that I have been forgetting to update

 

I used a tire psi calculator that said I should run then at about 40psi to meet the load requirements. It’s crazy that our stock P tire has a higher load rating at 30psi than E load at 40psi. E load doesn’t actually support more weight until the higher psi levels. The perfect tire doesn’t exist, it’s always a compromise.

 

Attaboy

 

I am going to un-install my front diff drop as I don't have terrible angle anyway and I would like the clearance back. Anyone have the part number for the OEM bolts that get replaced by the diff drop kits? This Toyota diagram is showing bolt 90080-11420, but the bolt pictured looks nothing like the bolt that holds the front diff up. Or, if anyone wants to mail me your stock bolts I will send you my drop kit for free! haha

 

(B)AAL springs got the rust-be-gone treatment. Top half will get the same.

 

Double cut burr grinder does wonders on the flaky stuff. More effective than a wire wheel and less destructive than a grinding disc. And, so much easier to get in the tight spots than either. All equally messy though.

 

I could get a measurement of mine and thread pitch probably when I'm home if that would do you any good (if I can remember). I'd like to hang on to mine though as I honestly don't know that I need to keep my diff drop on either

 

More parts in transit. Hoping @OverSquareEng is still alive, but I'm feeling guilty with these SS3 pods just sitting on the closet shelf, so I'm throwing money at these pods from Foxbeam...

I need to sell some more shit. Poppa didn't have enough money in the bank to buy these damn things until I can deal with Honda CRV part returns.

​

 

Interesting comparison on spark plugs.

Below are the plugs of unknown mileage I pulled from my Tundra after a year and couple months of ownership back in 2018. They are the standard nickel NGK v power plugs. Looks like one of them had been replaced already before I bought the truck but it was pretty amazing how well the truck ran with these massive gaps and *barely there* electrodes.



I wanted to replace them and forget about them, so I ordered some NGK iridium plugs thinking I was covered for 100K miles. Fast forward to a 2024, I was looking back at my maintenance logs and decided to check the specs on those plugs, then realizing I bought the cheaper iridiums that are only rated for 50K miles. Well I had already put 70K miles on these plugs so I decided to replace them this week with the 100K mile iridiums that use a platinum ground disc. Here are the plugs that I pulled that were 20K+ miles overdue for replacement.



Honestly they look pretty fantastic and I probably could've kept running them to 100K .

 

Not quite how it it looked in my head, but I'm really digging it. It'll still see some changes as I continue to flesh things out and dial in the details.

 

Yes, that's the right part number. Just went through my receipts because I've ordered some.

2x 90080-11420 Bolt with Washer
2x 90179-14063 Nut

 

This is so so hot

Best becareful Jake those sleepy time pee pee touchers will come get ya and then ask for 10 bucks...... @bmf4069