Dash Cam

I jumped in to ask about the connector. That's it.

 

I love these Dongar connectors. I've used them for dash cams in a CRV, Impreza, Pilot, Highlander, Rav4 and now my Tundra. It's nice when something just works. Can highly recommend them paired with the $100 4K Rove cameras on Amazon for good 4K video, and the Samsung Pro Endurance microSD cards designed to be used for dashcams.

 

Here in Canada the OEM dashcam is $500+ and only records facing forwards. I can buy Viofo A129+ Duo which has front and rear facing cameras as well as the hardwire kit for under $300.

 

Oh nice. Oem is a little cheaper in the US, looks like integrated dashcam going for about US$260 if you find a dealer who discounts, but I didn’t realize it is front only.

Seems odd these trucks have all these cameras built in but they can’t record without adding more dongles. Mine has the panoramic view package even

 

For anyone looking to make their own harness, you can buy the connector and wires on aliexpress for a lot cheaper:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003553150230.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.0.0.bf9df19cqVe44t
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003340350570.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.0.0.bf9df19cqVe44t
I used these with the hardwire kit for an Amazon dash cam and it works great, everything fits.

 

Anyone know how to remove this plastic part around the base? I felt like it was going to break.

 

Which connector did you buy, the 22-24AWG or the 20-22AWG connectors?

 

20-22awg. Thicker wires never hurt.

 

Thank you for all the info, installing the OEM dash cam tomorrow

 

Sorry to hear that

 

Just wanted to ask how you like this dash cam and the ability to upload to the cloud to view footage. Also, did your wiring make this cam always on? Thx

 

I don't use the cloud storage function of the dash cam, so i can't speak to that, but overall i like the dash cam, quality is good, only con is the price, i feel like it's kinda expensive

the wiring doesn't make the cam always on, the model i have can automatically turn off/goes into parking mode when the car is off

 

I was hoping the dash cam from toyota, would integrate with all the cameras already installed on the truck... unfortunately, it has it's own camera, looking forward, that gets everything from it, out to both corners of the front hood, and beyond... anything in the other 300 degrees around the truck, it's blind to.

 

Just got mine and installed it in 10 mins on my base SR5. Didn’t even have to use any tools but the overhead sunglass holder does take some pressure to pull off.

 

If anyone is interested in some kits, I also bought everything needed to make a couple kits (15 kits)

Downside, I'm in Canada, so shipping may be a bit more, but again, let me know if interested and I'll figure something out!

Note, I received the shrink tubing and everything to make it look nice, the pics are my prototype!

 

You have any updated pics with the shrink tubing? So the red wire is for on/off ignition and usb will run the always on feature on a dashcam?

 

Here you go:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/usb...n-dome-light-roof-cavity.121059/#post-3126763

Red wire is for always on, regardless of the truck being on or not, whereas the blue wire is for switched, when truck is turned on. You just need a Dash Cam that draws power from a USB outlet.

 

I just wish they'd have the security cam as an additional camera to record along with all the others. into 1 series of videos.

 

Hi

I am also located in Canada (toronto) what is your asking price for one shipped to L4E2Z7

thanks

 

Sent you a message

 

Any idea what fuse powers this connector?

 

Planning my dashcam installation, I went through this thread several times. Ultimately, I contacted Kevin at Dongar to obtain more information about the modification necessary to swap the power cable from ACC to 12v always-on. He sent me the following information:

"That modification is pretty easy but I still wouldn't recommend it. We actually have a brand new product coming out with built-in microcontroller and different modes that allow "always on" as well as ignition-on only and even a timed mode. It also has low voltage protection so it kills the camera before your truck gets below engine starting levels. You can see a demo video here. It'll be compatible with your Tundra, all new Tacomas, 3rd gen Tacomas, all new Land Cruisers, 4Runners and more, all in one kit. One other huge thing to consider about always-on cameras... After an incident, you're more likely to completely fill up and overwrite the entire SD card before you had the chance to review the footage, depending on how many channels your dashcam has, the quality settings, and sleep modes."​

This new adapter, as both an all-in-one and user configurable solution, seems like a massive step forward and should be just as plug-n-play as their current adapters. It is built on a custom PCB and should have a fall 2024 release date. I will use the roof-option connector as a stop-gap until this is released, but look forward to swapping this in.

Here is a link to the demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TKX14F9hy8

 

the fuse box is right on the passagers side ... why not just run a wire to the box and fuse tap ? it took me 10mins to install that to my black view camera...just seems easier ..

 

I see your point, and am glad that worked well for you. I believe that plugging a single plug, which costs the same as a hardware kit, is going to be simpler and more time-effective than running another wire. I did the install today, and it took all of 30 seconds to just drop the dome light console, locate the plug, and plug in.

 

True I just wanted parking mode for my dash-cam. Now the camera can stay on for up to 48 hours after the truck is parked without draining the truck’s battery. Feeling more secure with this setup, knowing it will capture everything even when I’m not around. It also had LTE so it alerts me if something has hit the truck or bumped it.

 

Anyone in the South Texas area that could help w install ?

 

Has Donger released this yet? Doesn't seem to be on their website.

 

No, he said they are looking at Fall of 2024. However, he said that the company is anticipating offering discounts to past customers. To me, that implies, that if you currently have one of his adapters, a second/new one would be pro-rated. With how easy those adapters are to install and cost effective they are, I bought the old version to use immediately and am planning on buying the new version when it is released.

 

Good to know. I am still camera shopping / comparing, so I will probably wait till they release before pulling the trigger.

 

I am not in south texas, but install is relatively easy. Here is how I did mine

Parts & tools:

• $360 VIOFO A229 Pro 4K HDR Dash Cam, Dual STARVIS 2 IMX678 IMX675, 4K+2K Front and Rear Car Camera, 2 Channel with HDR, Voice Control, 5GHz WiFi GPS, Night Vision 2.0, 24H Parking Mode, Support 512GB Max
  Viofo A229 2 Channel Dashcam (front & rear)
• Dongar Dash Cam Power Adapter (5-Pin Type A) for Select Toyota/Lexus with Roof Option Connector, Compatible w/ 2024+ Toyota Tacoma
  Dongar "Roof Option" Connector for Toyota (5-Pin Type A; Part #707568713877)
• $43 SanDisk 512GB High Endurance Video microSDXC Card with Adapter for Dash Cam and Home Monitoring Systems - C10, U3, V30, 4K UHD, Micro SD Card - SDSQQNR-512G-GN6IA
  SanDisk 512GB High Endurance Video microSDXC Card
  
• $13 Gardner Bender EFT-15 Mini Cable Snake, 15 Ft Steel Fish Tape, Electrical Wire Fishing Tape, Red & Black
  Cable Snake
• $18 Poraxy 19Pcs Trim Removal Tool, Car Panel Door Audio Dashboard Trim Removal Tool Kit, Auto Clip Pliers Fastener Remover Set, Plastic Pry Tool, Automotive Upholstery Removal Kit
  Plastic Trim Tools
• Tape (painters or electrical)
• Heat Gun (optional)
• Heat Shrink (optional)
• Rear camera mounting bracket (various options, only if used)

Step 1: Unbox and Test Dashcam / Set out Tools

Before any installation, unbox and test the dashcam. Make sure that it records from both channels, there are no camera issues, bluetooth and all other features work. Nothing worse than getting all the way through the install, just to find out that the camera is not working. Also a good idea, set out everything you will use for the install. Here are the tools (minus the heat shrink & heat gun) that I used.


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Step 2: Remove Front Dome Light Console

This is much easier than I expected it to be. There are 2 red push clips in the front (towards the windshield) and 2 retaining posts in the back. To take it out, open the sunglass holder, and hold the inside while pulling firmly down. Otherwise, use a trim tool under the edge and pull it down. Be careful not to push against the headliner, because you will damage it, and always pull the front (windshield side) down first. Once the red clips pop out, angle the front down out of the cavity and slide the back retaining posts out. The console will drop out.

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Step 3: Run the Rear Camera Wire

This was the hardest part of the install. Please note, I am not a mechanic, nor am I a professional installer. Using the cable snake, I first tried a single run from the back edge of the headliner, by the rear window, around the moonroof, and into the dome light cavity. Naturally, that failed.

The best was I figured out to do this was take it step by step. I routed the wire in the following order: Dome light cavity -> driver's door -> rear driver side door -> rear dome light cavity -> out the rear window headliner.

Following this pattern, first step is to remove the weather stripping on the driver's door. Very easy, just grab and pull - there is no adhesive, just a groove that affixes it to the seam weld and holds the headliner. This will expose the top of the headliner, and airbag.





Run the wire fish above the airbag, and into the front dome light cavity. Once you can see the end of the wire fish, pull it through and use tape (electrical or painters) to tie the USB-C cable to the fish. Then, simply pull the fish out.







Once the wire is at the driver's side door, it is very simple to get it over the passenger side door. Pull the weather stripping down further, and do the same for the rear passenger side door. Just like you already have, run the wire fish through, starting at the rear door and into the front door. Affix the cable to the fish, and pull through.



Now, you will have to get from the rear dome light to the rear door. This rear dome light has 4 spring metal tabs that are grooved to press against the headliner/mounting points in the roof. In order to remove this, you need to gently pull down on the rear dome light, by sliding a trim tool under the outer lip and using it as a lever to create space, then sliding another trim tool into the space and pushing upwards and inwards on each spring metal tab until the headliner is out of the groove, and free of the clip. Once all tabs are moved up, the rear dome light will drop freely with no resistance.





I wasn't able to get the fish into this cavity and through to the rear door. I ended up going from the rear door into the rear dome light cavity, taping the wire to the fish at the rear door, and pushing it further into the cavity instead of pulling. A little tricky, because the tape liked to slide along the smooth metal fish, but it worked.



Now that your cable is at the rear dome light, you just need to get it to poke out of the rear headliner. Toyota made a very inconvenient ridge near the back, the best way I was able to do this was using a trim tool to lever down on the headliner, running the fish in at an angle just to get around the ridge, then straighten it out to get into the rear dome light cavity. I wasn't able to get a good picture of this, since it already takes 3 hands, but this is how to push down on the headliner. NOTE: I do not suggest removing the rear window weather stripping. (1) you don't need to and (2) it is glued on, and you may damage it, but at a minimum will need to re-glue it.



Once your wire is poking out of the back headliner, you have completed this step.
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Step 4: Locate and Attach the Dongar Connector

The connector you are looking for is located on the driver's side of the front dome light cavity, and held in place by a small plastic clip.



Slide the connector forward to free it, and drop it out of the cavity. Plug in the male end of the Dongar connector into the truck, and clip the Dongar female plug back into the retaining clip to avoid rattle.

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Plug the USB-A end of the dashcam power cable into the Dongar microcontroller. Optionally, heat shrink this connection to prevent accidental disconnection.



Run both your dashcam power cable and the rear camera connection cable through the front lip of the headliner and onto the windshield. Then, zip tie your excess cable and tuck it into the cavity to prevent rattle and keep everything organized.




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Step 5: Finish Install

With your wires exposed, front and back, push both dome lights back into the roof cavities. I recommend using the attached static stickers on your windshield, especially if you have tint, rather than mounting your dashcam directly to the glass/film. Make sure to clean the area with isopropyl alcohol (which is tint safe) first, and do not get trapped air bubbles when applying the static sticker. Follow the rest of the Viofo install instructions in regards to securing the cam with 3M tape and powering it up.
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Mounting the Rear Dashcam

There are a lot of options for mounting a rear dashcam, but I didn't like any of them. I ended up fabricating my own bracket, which is basically a magnet on a spacer, with a slope that matches the *very annoying* ridge that Toyota has added near the rear window. I understand that this is not the most practical for most people, but there are commercial options out there. Pics of the one that I made.






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Hope this helps! Good luck with the install.