‘03 Tundra Steering

I just bought a 2003 Tundra. The front end wobbles event after the rack and pinion replacement. After two alignments the steering wheel is still cocked to the left and the front wobbles still. I’m thinking shocks or control arms? Thoughts?

 

Jack up the lower control with a floor jack and check for play in the wheel from side to side and top to bottom. It should minimal to non-existent. Also look at the lower control arm bushings to see if torn. You’d have to jack at another point (crossmember or frame) to check for play in the LCAs.

 

Read this if you haven’t: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Seriously. Read it. Take the time.

WHEN and UNDER WHAT CONDITIONS does the wheel wobble? Like what exact speed(s) or road conditions does it start? And where do you feel it?

The steering wheel alignment … are you going to shitty chain store operations? Any place you go to get aligned, if you tell them the wheel and steering is off they should know how to fix this.

 

Shifty,
Thanks for that, I appreciate it. It’s got 229k on and the frame has been replaced on it. It typically does it over 70 but over large bumps too at lower speeds. It wobbles a bit side to side but mainly on the passenger side. The frame is in good shape and the place I get it aligned at a mechanic I’ve been taking these too for a while now. I’m definitely taking it back to them after they did the rack and pinion.

 

Make sure they know about the steering wheel misalignment.

Wobbling above 60mph, if felt in the steering wheel, is most often a wheel issue. Either wheel balance, tire cupping, or similar.

Side-to-side hop on bumps, especially on trucks that've had suspension lift/lower (aka 'bump steer') is not uncommon and can be helped with alignment, but we have no info about whether your truck is lifted, and by what method it's lifted, if so. Pics would help.

Steering play on bumps, i.e. just a jostle of the wheel, is not abnormal per se. Vibrations/rattles is. If you've gotten a new rack, I'd assume you got new bushings also, which doesn't leave a lot to diagnose there. But the shop you took it to should take responsibility to diagnose.

Whatever you do, BE CAREFUL of the lower balljoints. Not only do aftermarket fail, and FAST sometimes, it's critical you inspect them regularly, and when replacing, only use verified OEM lower ball joints, with 4 fresh bolts on each side.

If you currently have zero evidence the lower ball joints have ever been replaced, that should be #1 on your list to do ASAP.

If you currently have zero evidence the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and pulleys have ever been replaced, that should also be #1 on your list to do ASAP.

Those two things, and frame rust, are things you DO NOT FUCK AROUND with. DO NOT trust a seller's word when they say they replaced either/both. The timing belt stickers, for example, are 50¢ - $1 online, and shady sellers prefer $1 over the $1k plus to actually do the work.

 

If your steering wheels is still cockeyed after two alignments, stop using that lazy alignment shop.

 

I was told today that they used “the wrong bushings” when they replaced the rack and pinion. This is the first time I’ve ever had a problem there. I’m picking it up this evening so here’s to hoping it’s right and then on to replacing lower ball joints this weekend.

 

Are you talking about jacking and holding the vehicle at the frame or crossmember with jack or stands and then lifting the LCA separately with a second or the original jack? Or are you solely lifting straight-on the LCA?

What is the appropriate LCA jack point?

 

I used the crossmember for checking my LCA. The appropriate point is under the side frame rail up front.

The play in my right passenger LCA bushing…
https://youtu.be/dgpmc4OYToE

When checking the ball joints and tie rods, place the floor jack under one of the two branches of the LCA to lift the tire off the ground.