General Supercharger Thread

I think are supercharger is better then that whipple they put on fords for 3k.

How much boost are those fords even making on stock pulley stock injectors? I highly doubt it’s doing 8psi at 6k rpm WOT.

 

Going from 43psi to 53psi will do that...

 

There was some discussion a month or so back about larger crank pulleys. I can't seem to find the stock crank pulley size. I seem to recall it being around 7". Anybody know?

 

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I wanna say it’s 6.125” IIRC.

 

Stock is around 6.2, ASP crank is 6.71 and XAT and Prospeed are 7.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Probably . I couldn't find my caliper so I guesstimated it...

 

Here is what $34 of catch can on Amazon gets you.





This is what I have on my supercharged LS, and this one is going on my 2JZ as it gets boosted. On the LS it collects quite a bit of shit, though that's also on a fully built engine so not really apples to apples comparing to the Radium. For $34 there's a lot of stuff I like, all machined aluminum, has engravings for "in" and "out" which is really nice. Has a bunch of random fittings included. Has a dip stick. Includes some fuel line albeit not a lot. Includes a funky little bracket (not shown in photos). It's pretty basic, it includes 2-3x the amount of steel wool as needed, and you pack it into this little container thing and thread it in.

So what does an additional $265 gain you for the radium? It gets a custom made sheet metal bracket for the Tundra (that personally I don't like). I think the Radium is quite a bit bigger. Oh and you get the weird check valve ball thing people show that seems useless

Food for thought.

 

I have a radium one - pretty useless... not a drop in it after the last oil change. However, the mesh filter looks a bit more dense and, puck-like.

 

yeah I bought it because I didn’t want any oil getting back into the blower. So even if I don’t empty it past 10k miles I’ll still be happy.

 

How much smeg are y'all collecting in your functional catch cans? About 4-5 oz over 2 oil changes, 6K miles. Very oily too.

 

Backpressure. How well your exhaust flows and one method to check to see if your catalytic converter is a major impediment to flow, or plugged. It just showed up in my recommended to watch list. Discuss away!

 

Love Julian Edgar's channel.

 

Essentially none

 

Little to none in mine.

 

Towing update for me for anyone who cares: Just got back from a 500ish mile trip towing the camper around, 95 degrees out both travel days. Plus an extra 200+ miles without the trailer on mountainous roads. This tow included some pretty wicked low speed hills with switchbacks in the mountains of Virginia near Shenandoah national park. The truck performed flawlessly, and I was pretty pleased as usual. Towing in S4 on the highway with the trans thermostat pinned I’d often see trans temps in the 180s, coolant temps in the 190s. Towing in S5 I was seeing more like 200-210 on both the trans and on the coolant. 65mph in S5 sits at 2200rpm, and in S4 at 65mph sits at 2800. I noticed about 1 mpg better in S5 despite it pushing 5psi on the hills in cruise control and being essentially under more load. I thought that was odd. 9.5mpg out and 8.5mpg back. It runs great either way, but putting it in cruise in S4 is pretty leisurely. It almost never unlocks the TC on hills unless it’s a whopper. Lots of torque on tap for sure. 34.5” tires on stock gears.

Despite higher fuel costs for premium I spent almost $20 less on the trip out than my brothers 3/4 ton Chevy with the 6.0 gasser granted his trailer is a little heavier. Didn’t check on fuel expenses for return travel.

 

I checked mine after 2k. I had about an .5 oz of mostly thin oil crud. I have the Amazon $21 special, it has the micro filter mesh on the inlet that can be cleaned. It's a small canister but hangs nicely off the side of the SC.

 

I'd have to believe that with 3 inch exhaust piping and one 200cell cat on each side it would be flowing quite well.

 

About this much shmoeg every 1-2k miles. Usually see a 200 mile trip with a heavy trailer and hills at 70 mph in those miles.

 

I've seen some exhausts tested on a flow bench but I rarely see exhausts rated in this manner. You would also need to estimate what your needed exhaust output would be using online calculators.

The quickest way to assess what is left on the table with any exhaust is to remove everything behind the headers and replace with an straight pipe extender (presumably to retain scavenging). This doesn't account for any size/length tuning for specific RPM bands and seems only focused on the big end of the RPM.

 

Thanks for the added details. I'm mixed driving (City/Hwy) on hilly terrain. A couple of hard pulls over the life of the oil.

 

@Wynnded Here is a test of varying back pressures and their corresponding top end power.

https://youtu.be/V2Wv5-ZTOjM?si=8lMi1rsT8nwUaIbA

 

5.29s nitro gears that’s with trac off. I also wasn’t all the way in it, I am pretty sure that truck will bald 35s.

 

Agreed, and I think that this method applies more to testing a system that's already in place, such as a factory system.

 

Well fuck. So threw double rich banks and MAF code last week. Started idling rough with very low AFR 17s or higher. Reset codes. Cleaned MAF. No codes but very low AFR again. Replaced MAF, same issue. Thoughts?

 

Mine does that rough idle code if it’s 1605 I think

 

Yes. Rescanned and no pending or current codes.

Only thing that has changed is exhaust and this heat wave.

I'm reading some people throw codes after installing an exhaust. Going to give it some more time to reset.

 

Probably flows more now to throw somethings out of range. @snivilous thoughts

 

if you put new exhaust on that truck probably needs a retune. Sounds like it’s leaning itself out. I thought you had full stainless works system already ? What did you add ?

 

Can you datalog?

It's weird you have RICH codes but the truck is reading LEAN unless I'm not understanding. Exhaust doesn't usually seem to make enough difference to throw a code assuming the base tune doesn't have high fuel trims, but that's not to say it isn't possible. But I would expect lean codes, which it sounds like your AFR is showing. If the codes/AFR variance popped up after a modification then I wouldn't think twice that the tune just needs to get dialed in a bit. But if you have rich codes, and lean AFR, well that's a little weird---albeit could still just be as simple as needing the tune tweaked.