Thanks for the advice buying the truck - now to fix it! :)

I got the Zerex Asian vehicle stuff. What do I need to do to flush the engine so that I'm starting out with a fresh coolant system?

 

drain the radiator, unhook the radiator hoses and drain those out. Then there are two brass petcocks on either side of the motor you can open to drain as well. Flush with water if desired to really get the old out, and then after reassembly, refill with the Toyota pink or red 50/50.

 

how do I flush the engine? Hook up some sort of transfer pump to the brass petcock and run distilled water through?

 

Honestly wouldn't bother with a distilled water flush. hose through the open upper radiator hose with the lower unhooked and petcocks open will flush it good enough. If a true flush is desired, beyond that, then using a radiator flush product prior to unhooking everything may help remove deposits. Any liquid that's in there will get pretty flushed out using the previously described methods.

 

https://youtu.be/jFB_adKLmPg?si=Enxu-BGtwrnm7YuH

Faye's the best.....kind of.....

 

She looks to be a little deeper in a heroin hole every time I see a video of her. She’s a solid Toyota mech though

 

the best professionals; in anything I've ever been around (food and auto), have always had some sort of addiction.

I'm not one to judge unless it begins to harm others. Lol

 

Ok so I’ve tore it all apart exempt pulling the water pump and the belt.

the timing marks on the camshafts pretty well line up. But the crankshaft shows a 2* off?

 

You may find this site helpful: https://www.toyoheadquarters.com/threads/toyota-2uz-fe-timing-belt-marks-4-7l.335/

I recommend following that joker.

 

Thank you! That clears things up!

 

I put in about 1 hr 40 mins getting everything pulled besides the crankshaft bolt.. that took two trips to Oreillys. But I would recommend using this guys trick of the chain vise grip I broke a breaker bar trying to do the starter trick lol
https://youtu.be/tdGjZP5U_0M?si=9suhVclniwVgtFvb

 

Yeah starter trick is sketchy...

 

New vote for doing putting in a new radiator. 10 years and 200k of peace of mind. I also strongly suggest putting in a Hewitt bypass kit. You have the emissions air pumps under the intake that will put you in limp mode when you're having fun in the mountains 150 miles from home.

 

Wanted to update everyone. The truck is sitting in the garage waiting for the new parts to be delivered.

I decided to take the time to replace all the fluids. I replaced the rear diff with 80w-90 Dino Lucas oil. The front diff and transfer case with

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 from Amsoil. I did the engine oil mobil1 5w-30 and OEM filter.

I plan to replace the transmission oil after I can drive again and warm it up before draining.

The only thing I can think of still to do is replace the LBJ’s eventually and be done with it.

 

Sounds like the right plan. I have Lucas oil sitting, ready for whenever I decide to prioritize the rear diff. Also have transmission oil sitting around. Problem for me has been my parking area is uneven dirt. Not like it's a huge deal to find a friend with a flat spot to do transmission fluid. But so far, the fact that I can't just do it at home on a random day I happen to feel like doing it has been enough of a hurdle to keep me from doing it. I want to have a nice, level surface to park on for checking my transmission fluid level before & after.

Are you doing a full flush, or just drain and replace what's in the pan, multiple times over the next few hundred miles? I plan to do the second.

 

just planning to do a couple drain and flushes. Thankfully I have a flat garage to work out of

 

Well, I royally fucked up. I forgot to Torque the timing belt tensioner mounting bolt until after I released the tensioner. When I tried to keep tightening it, it just kept spinning, so I thought that was wrong and I removed the tensioner only to find out that I stripped the bolt‍♂️‍♂️‍♂️‍♂️

i’m realizing because it was under tension that’s why it stripped.

what can I do to fix this?? Obviously, I can tap the hole to a bigger size, but I don’t know about the bolt. Or I could JB weld the bolt in there and never replace the swivel assembly.. I could still replace the tensioner and bearing when I replace the belt again.

fuck me… ‍♂️‍♂️

 

It looks like the part that it bolts into can be replaced, but I don’t know if that’s something I can do from the front side of the engine or if I would have to pull the engine to do that??

 

Heli-coil it.

Best if you have someone experienced do it.

 

Never heard of that. Looks like what it mounts to is the oil pump body. I could replace this with an AISIN for $66 plus shipping from rock auto. I'm just curious how difficult that is to replace..

 

I'll try to helicoil does anyone know what thread size it is?

 

Have you tried to retap it with a thread chase? Not sure how boogered it is. If the threads can be salvaged, that’s better than Heli-coil. But Heli-coil is a solid option otherwise.

 

I ended up doing the Heli coil. I was concerned that the threads were too buggered.

timing belt is in, harmonic balancer is in

now, I’m just waiting on USPS to deliver my serpentine belt kit tomorrow

 

For future reference a little more expensive but a timesert is probably the better option. Good work on it!

 

I ended up finishing the truck up this evening. We drove it about 60 miles with no major issues so that’s good. The truck is putting right along..

I did get a check engine light at about 30 miles into the trip. When I got home I pulled the code with my scan gauge and got a P0101 code indicating the MAF has an issue.

do you guys think I need to clean the MAF? I’m just gonna try to clear the code and keep driving it to see if it was just a fluke since it didn’t come on for quite awhile.

also, wanted to say thank you to everyone for your advice and assistance on this project!

 

Start with checking the harness is clipped securely. If it is, pull it out and look for crap on the socket or bent pins. If you didn’t remove it (no need to) during the process, have a can of MAF cleaner handy, pull it. Inspect for debris on the sensor, thru the view slot. If nothing, empty half a can of cleaner onto the sensor and its internals, then give it 20min to come back to ambient temp, it’ll be cold as shit. Reinstall.

The biggest mistake people make doing the timing belt is not properly routing the crank position harness, and it gets butchered by belt/pulley. That said, you touch on a LOT of wires and unclip a lot of harness while you’re in there, so it’s a good idea to go over your work as a whole. But definitely check that crank position sensor harness, that it’s tucked up, it gets routed behind one of the accessory brackets.