General Supercharger Thread

So I’ve seen some trucks have a passenger lean to them from the rear, the other day my wife was driving behind me and snapped a picture at a light and said looks like you have a lot of weight on the passenger side because it’s leaning hard and when you take off from a light it looks ridiculous. Has anyone else noticed this with their trucks? Especially since we have more power and the torque of the truck goes in that direction. (The truck has never hauled anything more than a couple hundred pounds in the bed and has only towed a seadoo.)

 

Every time late July through August hits, I wonder why I live in Tennessee.

Then, September hits. I harvest as many deer as I want, find world class fishing within an hour of my house, and take my family backpacking in one of several state parks. Next spring rolls around, and I pay my state income tax (0%), property tax on my house (very low but creeping up), and property tax on vehicles (0%). It’s then that I finally remember how much I love this place.

Then July hits, and I start to wonder again lol

 

Driver side is done, #1 plug tube is still full of oil after Auto Nation Tempe repaired the timing cover seep 4/23 & "fixed" their messed up gasket 4/24. Not happy.

The truck is running fine, I ran out of time/"cool" it was 101 when I stopped, no energy for removing the catch can & doing the remaining 4.

 

Stay cool! That heat will get ya. Oh you got the big prospeed setup to get out of the way...good its running with no "hiccups ".
I had occasional oil on #4 coil. Wierd thing, when I switched to my heavy 30w oil blend it went away. I cleaned it up when I switched my plugs back to ikh24's from the ngk's. No more misfires!
That passenger side got me. My fricking beard kept getting caught on the radiator cap and intake clamps...ripping hair out
Hopefully will get it running when the UPS guy shows up this afternoon.

 

You forgot the part about humidity... Blehhhhhhhhhh... The rest sounds nice, though.

Looks more like road crown to me. It has been argued that the factory tundra lean, which is on the driver's side due to driver, battery, steering, and gas tank, is countered by road crown so the stock vehicle rides level on the road. But when we get rid of the tundra lean with a leveling kit or other means, we get a passenger side lean due to road crown.

 

With regard to the supercharger coupler replacement topic ... what does this group recommend for how to remove the coupler and how to press the new one on?

 

It just slips on opposing pins from snout and rotor pack. Some will loosen the blower on intake enough to lift front snout to get at bolts. Some will take water crossover and idler pulley off. Don't drp the snout bolts in center section...its an abyss!
Similar design...

 

I predict 120+

 

I could NEVER forget the humidity. The heat and humidity of August is exactly what I'm talking about. They always seem to sneak up on us Tennessee folk because June and early July are usually not too bad. August is brutal. Feels like I took a shower in my clothes the second I step outside. Still glad I don't live in Houston though.

I don't think it's road crown. The OEM driver springs compensate for all the driver side weight already.

There are multiple threads with people posting their truck parked on perfectly level surfaces showing the same thing. Almost every single Tundra parked on a level surface will have a rear passenger bedside that sits lower than the driver side and a passenger rear wheel that sticks out (looks like it has less positive offset) than the driver side.

My speculation is that this is from the one-wheel-peel torque of our open rear diff that puts more strain on the passenger side leafs and pulls the axle out of alignment with the frame. Any bed alignment issue will exacerbate the visual asymmetry. Toyota even compensated for this by placing the upper rear shock mounts opposite each other (one forward and one behind the rear axle).

I wonder if a SC and the factory open diff would make it worse as well...

 

Ah I love it up here on the mountain, until the flatlanders come running from the heat

 

Lived on Oahu in '82, because of the humidity (just like above) if I never go back I'M GOOD WITH IT.

Cooler weather was the only thing I liked about my parents living in Prescot

 

It can be a bitch to get out. Need one or two sizes of prying tools to stick in the center bore and then work around and pull it off. I like to undo the blower bolts and angle the nose up and then the snout can be unbolted, then you don't have to screw with coolant but both options kind of suck. I put grease on the pins to try and help pull it off in the future.

 

Like anti-cease? I've read a lithium grease is also used...

 

@ViktorG has a great YouTube video on this. I’m sure it was posted somewhere back on one of these pages, but here it is.

https://youtu.be/T0zR6X2uyBg?si=feFhpzUo0HUtKuVk

 

Yeah, I've checked this one out, and will probably take the path he went ... as in, NOT removing the S/C and injectors and such. Any way ya slice it, doesn't look like fun.

 

Either or. I use whatever grease is in the gun anti-seize would probably be fine, though I usually only use that for metal on metal contact.

 

Well it runs with the 8arfts coils. I didn't log anything and seemed to fire right up.
I do have a rattle from either steering pump or alternator. Both spun freely when I was looking over the pulleys but no load from the belt. Good alt output and steering works. It's not coming from the engine and at first thought it was the SC coupler, has that rattle sound. Will look at it later when it cools.
Edit: tested with old tensioner and replaced with new one. Rattle is gone and most likely the bad tensioner. It snapped my belt when I got on it and it lost tension under load.

 

I haven't taken a snout off ... is that really as easy as it seems? Like, once you have access/all the bolts off, just tap it with a rubber mallet and wiggle it away from the housing?

 

Yup. There's 6 bolts, and they're (nearly) impossible to reach without moving the coolant crossover or tilting the whole supercharger up. Once they're pulled hit it with a mallet a few times and it'll wiggle off the coupler and that's it.

It wouldn't hurt to grab the O-rings too but isn't mandatory. You can get a snout O-ring kit, that includes the two O-rings that go between the snout and the blower body as well as the throttle body O-ring.

Pry the old coupler off, throw some grease on the pins (three on the blower body, three on the snout), tap the new coupler on, line up the pins as best as possible (which is half way luck) and tap the snout back on. Six bolts back in, and you're off to the races.

 

Did you move to longer hardware for the coils? I'm going to swap to these if all looks good even though I just bought brand new tundra coils lol damnit.

 

The 8arfts coils are about 5mm longer. I just got m6x1.0 bolts from bottom flange to bolt was 20mm. Stock were 15mm.

 

The 4 I did were fine with the OEM bolts

 

There is still enough thread on stock ones to work. I just did it to be prepared if needed.

 

I'll have to hook up hpt and see if I get those random startup misfires and low rpm ones that don't set off the cel but I randomly see them on the logs. The big reason I wanted to try these.

 

Keep us posted! What’d you drop the plug gaps to?

 

Thanks for posting those ebay 8arfts coils! I was looking at new ones and was finding it to be a costly experiment. I know 4 coils are low mileage but the other 4 I have no idea, but they looked clean and are firing.

 

The ones I installed are super clean, the others are oddly red but otherwise look ok, I'll try to get them in in the morning.

 

I kept them at .024. I had the ngk's at .026 but I believe they were bogus ones as they were pretty cheap...

 

Yeah ive heard prescotts gotten pretty weird like as in seattle/portland weird lol

 

Last half of vaca switched from a M3 comp to a M4 comp. Man down at Las Vegas elevation these fuckers both pulled damn hard. Tested the M3 to Hoover dam and the M4 at valley of fire. Unlike the supercharged though they both had lag, but once boost kicked in they rolled out with vigor. Very impressed by their performance, especially in 110+ temps. Fun rentals. With that said I'm glad to be back in the truck and missed the sound of a V8 with Downpipes! Beemers just didn't have that growl lol