What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I chewed on this a little while working this evening. I do think there is a Sequoia sway bar at my local yard, but thought that the Jeep guys used a torsion style system. This isn't exactly what I was thinking, but looks cool none the less. I need to do some more research, but this looks like a fun build.

 

It may be thicker than my TRD rear sway bar for the Tundra too. I know the Sequoia fronts are thicker than ours.

 

You know it dog! Black On Black On Black On Black! I Did all the way to the back of the cab doing the front suspension, so it should be supafresh tip to tail.

 

I know the Antirock is pretty popular. I was planning on eventually incorporating one into my CJ7 stretch build. No doubt it will take a few sessions in the shop press to get the arms bent to exactly where you want them to be.

As rad as that currie torsion bar would be, i think it would be a waste on pretty much most leaf sprung vehicles. Now if you had a SAS front axle and links front and rear, then it would be perfect for a crawler. But on a multi-use pickup truck with rear leafs, i think a standard swaybar would offer better performance for daily use. At least those are my thoughts.

Just thinking here, is there room for the anti rock torsion bar? Would the fuel tank be in the way (when mounted fore), or spare tire (when mounted aft) be in the way? I’m not sure, but i think the the antirock can be mounted upside down?

 

I’m kinda kicking myself for not grabbing the sequoia rear seat bar when i had the chance when the U Pull yard was having a 75% off sale. But then again, i’m not running front or rear swaybars on my truck. So i guess there’s really no reason to kick myself in my own butt.

 

I think you are probably right here. An OEM bar (toyota or otherwise) would be an affordable way to add some rear stabilty.

I'm going to replace the existing spare tire crossmember with a tubular something or other. Freeing up some space for a water tank and more storage and that's prime real estate. I think the spare will go on a swing out style carrier.

 

I want a front Sequoia sway bar for my street queen. I wish I had done 5100's in front instead of 4600's. Anything to stiffen things up for general hoonery in the streets
I saw someone ordered a custom kit from SOS where instead of lowering the front 2" he went 2.5". I think in a few years I'll see if I can do that and pair with 5100's.
I guess I could try to run a Sequoia rear if it is indeed thicker than my TRD rear. But I don't think it would be worth it, since my rear already is pretty stiff with the 4" drop, 4x4 leaf springs, Wheelers AALs and 5100's.
I also been considering adding a single bastard leaf to my leaf packs.

 

Nothing like Jakejake but I gotta make do in my apartment parking lot. Used jack, stands, and cheapo Crescent wrenches. Cheater bar = my jack's hollow metal handle. This was a royal PITA to align into the truck and bolt up front eye and rear shackle hole while lining up that center nipple-thing, took multiple attempts removing and putting it back. Really had to muscle that bitch in there. Spud wrench and pry bar (long screw driver) required. Leafs are Husky HD from Rock Auto, and also got new Husky shackle bolts and U bolts, 7/8" size nutsnbolts. Re-used the old shackle as the bushing seemed fine. The Husky spring is much heavier than the old spring, no idea if old leaf spring was OEM but it used 19mm nutsnbolts so I assume OEM.

I realize the shackle is flipped wrong in photo.

 

I use some crescent tools, and would absolutely use the jack handle as a cheater bar.

I have been using an 18" drift punch to get the bolts slid through, an actual spud wrench would be a good tool to have on hand. Im almost a pro at this point though. The leafs will probably come out and go back in at least one more time. It's always easier the second or third time eh'?

A big hell yeah for getting it done with what you've got in the space available.

 

Thank you Jake, your build is truly amazing btw!

 

Jack handles make the best cheater pipes.

 

Met @Heathnewton36, 1gt to 1gt goodness

 

Sold the cap, eh?
So when's crackie turning into a DC?

 

Yeah! THIS

 

Hot damn, I didn't realize he signed up over here after I inbox'd him about your cap. Glad to see y'all were able to make it happen!

Now go hit the JY for a new front bumper skin, Noah!

Love the patina on @Heathnewton36's truck. Welcome to the forum, Heath! I think you'll find this forum to be a better/more functional resource than the FB group.

 

Eventually

I told him that I wished my hood would patina like that, jelly

 

Can anyone help me find a seat belt latch for the passenger bench in brown?

I can't seem to track it down. This is as far as I got

73230-0C020

 

I put in a new battery today. Went from the 24f to the 27f 'cause why the fuck not. Swap made the CEL go bye bye. Maybe I'll be lucky.....

Edit:: 30min in and no CEL yet....the suspense is killing me

 

All of them will come in tan/beige by default, Toyota has stopped making color-matched plastics for most of our interiors at this point, that ship sailed starting around 2021 or so. Text or PM me your VIN and I can run things down for you.

 

Did another shock adjustment. Started playing with rebound on the bypasses and this truck is really getting dialed. I just cooked these speed bumps doing 60mph. Extremely stable and doesn’t buck the rear whatsoever. It pops just a hair in the front since it’s still mid travel. Rears have about 4” of shock shaft still before bottoming out… which I still haven’t successfully done and trust me I’m trying.


Also someone sent me a pic of the archive garage rear shock relocation and I see why mine is letting me do some really rowdy stuff. I’ve got more uptravel due to my upper shock mount being further back. The red line is where my upper mount is.

 

Back on all four! Here's some beauty shots. Calling this a win for the day. Going to design the upper bag mount a chill out this evening.

 

I appreciate the effort that went into this. Super clean.

 

The metal work is art with the bolt head cutouts and weld beads ... and Dale's pretty cute too. After seeing this probably need to figure out how to get a CNC plasma cutter some day at home. Did you bend the 90s in the leaf pack holders hot and quench; what is the best process to do it right? And what size pipe did you canoe to fit the axle OD?

 

Mmmmmm that's all purrty and cleeeean

Outstanding job man

 

This may be a stupid question, but I thought the “canoes” would be welded to the axle tube?

 

Wagon style for quick detach.

@ToyotaDude I'll provide some more details in my build thread when I update it.

 

Your pinion angle will hold tight?
Color me impressed

 

Sorry toasty, I thought that was a joke. I will load it with some weight and set the pinion angle before welding the doubler to the axle tube. Probably tomorrowish.

 

Hahaha with all the cool shit your doing, it wouldn’t surprise me if you came up with something that could detach!

 

Nothing to do today so I squirted 4 coats of single stage urethane on my 2003 RCLB. All I need to do now is slap the topper back on and drive it until I'm dead.