DD exhaust w/LT headers w/sound clip pg 8 post 229

Did I miss pics of the install?

 

I'm bad about that

I did post pictures of the hoist and my set up.


In my defense, some of these places are so tight it is hard to get a good picture

 

As long as your SAIS isn't stuck open, you'll be fine, assuming you either program it out or bypass it

 

I meant of them installed. Or you still working on em?

 

I did have to use a few more swivels installing the header. 14 mm socket and ratchet wrench

this is every tool I needed to install the header (only) on the driver side. The swivel headed ratchet wrench on the far right I only needed to remove the old exhaust manifold.




The same was true for installing the driver side header and removing the exhaust manifold. All of the top nuts I accessed through the access behind the two splash guards that I removed

all the bottom nuts were access from the bottom

One good thing about using an engine hoist, it was really easy to make slight adjustments to the height for easier access for the manifold/header in all of these tight spots

 

I am putting the final turns on the driver side header

I'm taking my time with it because it doesn't look like the cats will be returned until next Monday

And I've got many other projects at home to do. But I should be done with the driver side and lowering it today and having the passenger side Prepped and ready to start on tomorrow

I might get lucky and do the passenger side in one day but worst case is Friday morning. Just depends on how long I work tomorrow. Probably take the 4th off

 

I hope you ordered some O2 harness extensions. Or you going to splice into the O2 sensor harness?

 

topside of driver header installed - still have motor mount, including the cable attachment to secure and lower that side of the engine

That's a little anti-seize I rubbed off on the header accidentally

 

I followed Keith's recommendations. I spliced, soldered, covered with heat shrink, and then with heat reflective conduit

from the collector
EDIT: later changed harness route to behind heat shield (see below)


Past the transmission shift cable, and the parking brake cable. That zip tie is purposely loose






this zip tie is also purposely loose but the O2 sensor harness on this can't get any closer to the header

EDIT:

I rerouted the extended O2 sensor harness behind the heat shield. Did not like the zip tying it to one of the other wiring harnesses. The heat shield was perfect. I bent the heat shield slightly toward the cab on one side so I didn't have to zip tie to the other wiring harness which was poor form.


Did not like:



And last, the header from underneath without the motor mount installed




i'll touch up with the same paint Keith used once I'm done

 

Is rust around the flanges (??? Flat surface just outside the freeze plugs on the engine block) normal? Seems like there's some very slight seepage. Sprayed it with WD-40 so it's not quite as obvious now

 

I mean you live in the south, surface rust happens with the humidity and can be worse if you live near the coast. But it's usually not a big deal. My bare steel BFF sliders sat in my garage for two weeks before I could install and paint em and got surface rust on em from the humidity.

 

Found a convenient use for these magnetic trays from hobo freight when you're on your back under your truck

 

Passenger side is much smoother after doing the driver side

after bumbling and fumbling on the driver side, I found the correct o2/header install sequence to be:

Install o2 harness in header bung

place header unbolted as though you are ready to bolt on

Route o2 harness behind the catalytic converter heat shield and then secure the heat shield

My choice was to bend the edge of that heat shield so I did not have to secure my modified harness until i was close to the other connector near the engine. Harness is now protected and very secure

plug-in the O2 sensor harness

bolt on the header

also worth noting. I didn't have an extra pair of eyes to keep an eye as I jacked each side of the engine up. On the passenger side, I jammed the O2 sensor into the firewall. This is most likely why I could not get the O2 sensor out. It seemed to be cross threaded.

No big deal on the downstream O2 sensors, but for the upstream, even though they're twice as much as the downstream, ideal time to replace with Denso while you're in there, which is the OEM part. But again, if you use the extended harness instead of slicing and soldering it's just as quick and easy as replacing the downstream sensors


A bit tacky, but effective:


there was an access hole to another nut (dont recall what it was to) right where the O2 sensor connects. I ran the harness through that hole and used needle nose pliers to bend that hole so the sharp edge would not contact/cut the O2 harness


Just read another thread where shifty and others adamantly said to never ever cut a wiring harness. Guess I've broken that rule twice now with my power seats and now the o2 harnesses. However, this is the accessory side and not the truck side. It's not like cutting the factory stereo wiring harness

P. S. My right hand has never hurt so bad. Good thing my lady friend was willing to massage my hand lol. It is still killing me this morning. Just seems like almost every nut and bolt is in such a tight spot. Nothing impossible but just tight, challenging, and slow going

 

So when's the pretty pictures?

 

Prob tomorrow. Limited pictures during the install, And most of those have already been posted. But at least I will get some when complete.


By the way in retrospect, Keith was the one that insisted to splice and solder the O2 wiring harness. He said he was perfectionistic that way. But he also races and works on these things all the time. And he also told me that the check engine light was no big deal and he rode with his like that for years Ugh

Now that I see what's going on under the truck that was just dumb for my needs. Now using his preference, if I ever have to replace that O2 sensor in the future, it becomes a major task.

If I had used a quality extended harness the sensor replacement is a breeze. The bung is in the collector which protrudes way out from under the engine, i.e. very accessible. You don't have to connect to the factory plug which is more or less behind the engine and extremely difficult to access. You just plug it into the extension, which is right near the O2 sensor.

Wish I could go back and change to the Harness extension

 

Let me help you with that, pal.

https://urdusa.com/urd-o2-sensor-extension-harness/

 

Thanks I saw those last night. Wasn't sure about the website. I just ordered a set. Great price compared to some others.

It's too late for my project because I can't wait and I already have one side assembled. But I will keep them secure in my truck in case I'm ever out of town or if ever these fail.

 

I drove sparingly, with mine unplugged for a few days, until the extensions came in.

 

You were able to get your hands in there and plug in the extension to the motor side plug?

 

I looked hard and never saw them from gadget

 

How many codes did that trigger? I was hoping to do my timing belt this weekend, but I hate to complicate matters without working through/completing the exhaust system

 

No, I tried and while I was down there I noticed that my mechanic hadn't actually replaced my sway bar bushings, that I had paid for not too long prior to that. So I took it back and complained and told em to make it up to me they could put it on the lift and plug in my O2 sensors hahaha

I could've done the bushings myself, but this truck was a bit of a mess when I bought it and I was working like 80hrs a week on nights.

 

I think they're new because I didn't buy from him either. In fact I had a hell of a time finding em like 3 years ago. Even had to send one pair back because they were the wrong plastic part, didn't work

 

Yeah I think i sent you a link for the ones I found

 

One per side iirc

 

I went with these :
https://www.casperselectronics.com/...uct/product&path=7_40&product_id=575&limit=25

Called to verify with bosch p/n. Great service incase URD does not work out. I found a company that can control open/control loop in case it ends up being sensitive, lmk. Thanks for updates@

 

I think those are what I used as well

 

@455h0le_dachshund @FrenchToasty @BluegrapeVr6

Guys, did you even need an extension on the passenger side? Maybe mine is different because it's 2WD

I didn't realize when I disconnected it that it appears the passenger side is routed over the transmission from the other side. And it appears the upstream harness comes out right where the upstream O2 sensor will now be located.

it looks like if you disconnect the upstream plug from the bracket, it comes directly down toward the new location of the upstream O2 sensor


Orange is upstream connector, yellow is downstream

 

I believe I only used one correct, I think I sent the other one to Dan

 

First crank with headers only - no cats mufflers resonators tailpipe. My drive to the muffler shop won't be nearly as bad as I was anticipating

i'm sure it's hard to tell with the loud noise but I could heard no leaks around the headers.