DD exhaust w/LT headers w/sound clip pg 8 post 229

Thanks That's different I like it. I also like using a 2 x 6 to spread out the weight.

I guess I should've worded my question better

we are preached to, and we preach to others about safety and working around or under your car if it is jacked up - be sure to use jack stands.

Yet in this situation where our hands are very vulnerable, we just overlook it and only support the engine by a jack?

 

Slow and steady. I like to lift it to where i need it then take a few steps back listen for it creaking. Maybe gently shake truck, have 2nd man there and seriosly rubing tubing to stop bleeding w 8/10 flat head to tighten. Know the clisesy fire department # , im going to try to due mine somewhere where i can use my come a long to be a back up. Something w some exposed structural steel

 

I firmly support that reasoning. That being said ,OSHA violations make the day go quicker.

If I were leaving both engine mounts undone for any extended amount of time I'd want something mechanical to hold it.

When I did my headers I only removed one mount at a time. And reinstalled the engine mount if I was done for the day. So realistically, you're only depending on a hydraulic jack for a few hours.

 

Do you have any friends that own an engine hoist? I'd ask around and see, or you may buy one from Harbor Freight then sell when you're done (or keep it for future projects)

 

If I have to lift the motor I put a 2x6 under a amall piece of plywood under the oil pan.

 

I just wasn't comfortable so I got a hoist. It was worth it for my peace of mind, even though the legs get in the way a bit The other way, I'm sure the Jack would've gotten in the way too

I thought the same thing about buying one from Harbor freight but one of the local rentals had the same One Harbor freight sells for $100 for a week

 

Do lits of logging before install on your 02"s ( all of them) , back them up. Write them down. Note weather, hot cold start etc. So you can make harwars modifications to post cat 02's to get within parameter. U should not have to mess with primary 02"s at all. I would data log on hour sessions with a buddy msking time stamps ( cold srt, part , thottle. Full throttle, hot start, weight in bed) . If you find yourself getting 12mpg all the time, the ecu ignoring primary 02's and going full rich.

@dirtydeeds please chime in with tips when you can please. Looks like we have 3-4 people getting ready to tackle install with your babies. If over phone is better hit us up whenever is good for you. . I mainly have wiring questions.

 

i'm getting the ECU mod from Quantum Auto Tuning that Keith recommended so I believe mine will be OK RE:codes.

as a matter of fact, the modified ecu arrived on my front doorstep as I was making this post

 

@dirtydeeds

Keith, I saw this post in another thread. And I've heard some references to it but you told me I wouldn't need that bypass if I'm not mistaken. Is this because of the ECU mod or will your headers not block the holes in the head and thereby remain functional?

 

Great! I think that was the best and safest option. Yes, legs are in the way and you have to maneuver around them, but if you ever need to lift an engine, support an engine, or lift other heavy objects into your truck (I've used mine to lift transmissions into my truck bed) you've got a hoist for that now.

 

They really haven't been in the way as much as I thought. This one has an adjustable boom And even at its furthest extension it supports a ton, which is ample for this project. Helps keep the legs out of the way

and then you can easily adjust the height of the engine side where you're working as needed

already have the top 4, now all 8 driver's side manifold nuts off

I pictured of having a lot of scrapes on my arms and my neck hurting. Nope but my hands esp thumb is fatigued



@KNABORES wasn't with you that had a special phrase for the side from an earlier thread?

 

Nice!

 

EDIT:

after a call with Keith just now, I finally understand. He told me previously the headers would throw codes without one of a few possible modifications, but I didn't realize it was from SAIS and because his headers block off the ports by design

so I chose the ECU programmed by The guy Keith recommended/Quantum Auto Tuning. This tune, of course, improves performance, and it is also designed for the headers thereby eliminating SAIS codes

so I can just remove these tubes or pipes for the SAIS and get them out-of-the-way. Sounds like this also averts the issues in the future where many opt for the Hewitt bypass with block off plates

Plodding along - now I've got the manifold off. Looks pretty clean for 312,000 miles

Driver front:



Driver rear:






Orig Post:

I have all the exhaust manifold nuts removed on the driver side, but can't the manifold off due to this clip (?) / part of SAIS at the end of the manifold

EDIT: there was no clip. It was where the SAIS tubes connected with flange joints - was hard discern from my view

10 mm bolt doesn't have enough clearance (edit has just enough clearance but good luck getting to it much less putting it back) for any of my sockets and you don't have enough room for an open ended wrench

Edit: Keith's headers by design block off the ports without the need for the block-off plates so I will be without the tubing.

Orig: wish I had known about this upfront that's part my fault for not knowing about SAIS. Would've loved to just put the block off plates and removed & bypassed this whole system

 

Thanks for updates man ! Document as much as you can for us! Im trying to see if i can squeeze my install in soon too.

Sorry i was not much help w newer emissions cat warming device. Not familiar with them. But super happy to hear Keith is working with ya. How many studs have you broke if any. Any final lessons learned would be hreat for community.

 

no broken studs. The only nut I stripped was where the exhaust manifold exits to the pipe toward the converter. That was probably my fault because I tried an impact wrench on it after I broke it loose but apparently it was not fully on the nut and/or not broken loose. Those were definitely the hard ones to get, not the manifold nuts. But I was able to remove the manifold with that cut off piece of pipe still attached

Key takeaways from removing my driver's side manifold - 2006 4.7 DC:

This is what I discovered while removing my driver side manifold which I attacked first to get the most difficult over with and had more objects in the way like the oil dipstick, transmission shift cable, etc.

I didn't have any fancy tools. My two impact wrenches were mostly useless.

I was uncomfortable with the various suggestions for jacking the engine one side at a time so I used an engine hoist. Admittedly I'm a bit skittish about such things and everyone else seem to do it without this, but if somebody could screw it up it would be me so it just wasn't worth risking my hands and arms. Well worth it for my peace of mind

I watched countless videos, but they weren't exactly my scenario and setup. Some of them were without SAIS, so didn't have the heat shield over the manifold or the SAIS tubes, some were 2ndGEN. Some skipped over some of the details that related to mine.

I've been able to do it all by myself, but another pair of eyes would've helped while jacking the motor

The latest version of DirtyDeeds headers for a 1stGen 4.7 block off the ports for the SAIS tubes. Therefore, you have to address the codes that it will throw up. Keith recommended the ECU mod from quantum auto tuning in California. This has the advantage of giving you the performance tuning as well as eliminating any SAIS related codes in the future. But I live in a state where I don't have to worry about emissions compliance And the SAIS has minimal impact on emissions just for a few seconds under certain conditions when you start the engine. You will also probably not get codes indicating that your converters are beginning to fail and/or causing performance issues

when I did pre-douse the exhaust manifold nuts with PB blaster, I couldn't get to all of them until the day before. But all came off relatively easily with a few light-moderate bumps of the wrench

I did have to remove the motor mounts and lift the motor on one side.

I saw where someone recommended disconnecting the fuse box and pushing it out of the way. That wasn't a factor because I didn't do anything on the manifold from up top. I did it through the fender / wheel well by removing both splash guards and from underneath.

I did remove the drivers wheel and the splash guards (?) which is how I got to all the top nuts on the manifold and the 2 nuts that held the sais tubes on the manifold to the sais tubes at rear of motor. You can't remove the manifold without disconnecting those two nuts on the SAIS tubes at the rear

so far I've gotten away without loosening the bracket for the dipstick mostly because I could hardly get to the damn thing due to part of the AC system blocking it.

Also didn't remove or disconnect the steering shaft which might've made removing the nuts that connect the sais tubes at the rear of the motor less tedious but overall I think it would've been slower with more potential headaches. Those nuts for the SAIS tubes have to be removed in order to remove the manifold since it's all connected

EDIT: One other thing. I really didn't need some of the extra wrenches I bought. And although I had and sometimes used a swivel head ratchet, the other swivels were useless. I used two extensions - a medium-long and a short one and there was just enough play in them so that I did not need a swivel other than occasionally the ratchet with a swiveling head.

Edit 2: also removed the nuts from the fan shroud. I should've taken it off because the fan is still jammed up against it after I raised the side of the motor

I also should've removed two vacuum hoses, but they just popped off while jacking the motor. Another set of eyes would've helped

I did takeoff the transmission shifting cable where it connects to the lever at the transmission. I thought I was gonna have to remove a bracket that was holding the shift cable, but it turned out to be unnecessary

I removed the heat shield by the catalytic converter on the driver side

I also removed a very small heat shield close to the exhaust manifold.

I took all of the bolts out of the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold. I was unable to remove it Because of the dipstick bracket. If I had taken that loose, I'll probably could've removed it, but I was able to shift it around to get to all of the exhaust manifold nuts without removing.

I saw several references to disconnecting the driveshaft from the transmission, but Keith didn't feel that was necessary and therefore, I didn't do it. That might've only been for 2ndGen tundras

I cut my catalytic converters so I could send them to Keith in order him to modify them by enlarging the entrances and exits and maintaining it as a bolt on system

Edit 3:

I am using Keith's recommended option to extend O2 wiring harness for the headers by splicing with the same color & gauge wires to extend approx 2 feet, soldering the wires, covering with heat shrink, wrapping with electrical tape, then heat reflective conduit, and routing / securing as far away from the header and exhaust as possible

i'm sure I could've fabricated a plate to block off/seal the remaining SAIS tubes but I just ordered the block off plates from Hewitt. I don't feel like tinkering and redoing it so i'm taking off the tubes and doing it at what I believe is the pump as @Riverdale21 did in his installation here: https://www.tundras.com/posts/2496638.

 

Ok cool thanks for taking minutes. This thread will be super helpful. I need to find thosr gaskets you got and figure out where my donut gaskets went. After speaking with keith do u have a game plan for wiring?

 

Yes, he said to get the same color of wires, solder, use heat shrink and heat protective conduit as well as Securing them as far from the exhaust as I can. Just a rough guess but it looks like it will need about two more feet of wire


He thought this was much better than using the snap on extended wiring harnesses

 

SAIS removal

edit:

hewitt bypass instructions didnt help. Since their plates are inserted between the rubes with all of the tubes in place, it's not the same situation as I have here where I am removing/losing the tubes on the exhaust manifolds

orig:

i'm trying to read up on this, but it's always so damn hard to find just the right scenario. I'm not using a bypass kit, but I am removing the tubes that feed air by the manifold into exhaust ports


So the ECU mod handles the codes/check engine situation

the DD headers block off the ports where it would inject air briefly during start up if the conditions are met

The tubes that feed the air into the exhaust port will no longer be present. But those tubes connected to another tube behind the engine, which I'm sure leads to the air pump.

what I'm researching is if I have to do anything further??? I don't see how I can get to the back of the engine and remove all of that system, but those tubes will be open and exposed If I don't do something

 

See my post about header install. I put the Hewitt SAIS bypass plates directly onto the SAIS pumps. The flange shape is the same on the pumps as it is on the manifold.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-00-04-headers-onto-05-06-motor.97796/page-2#post-2496638

 

thanks I'm not actually using the bypass kit, but I believe I can just fabricate a little plate and drill 2 holes for the bolts and mimic what you're doing with the kit

 

I should've read your post first. I'm glad to see how you did that because I didn't want those pipes just dangling.

I just couldn't see back there well because I've got The driver side of the Engine jacked up and it's also tilting back toward the firewall


Anyway, thanks. Great info.

 

Once you get the pipe off the pump you can use the flange to trace and make a plate.

I should have chimed in earlier this morning to answer your questions but you tagged Keith, and I didn't want to step on his toes.

I'm not familiar with the chip you're using, I would imagine tuners have the ability to bypass SAIS systems. When I installed headers I had the Hewitt kit. But the other issues you outlined, I'm glad you were able to get answers from Keith.

In the thread I linked, the first post shows the difference between VVTI and non-VVTI headers. Also shows how Dirty Deeds works around the SAIS ports on the head.

 

He does it differently now. Now he blocks off the port

that was also part of the confusion. Many have evolved over time and there's so many different versions

 

Can you post a pic of of youv02 bung placement in relation to collector to see if any changes werecmade. Mine looks like it will work. Wish i kept a old o2 to test fit.

 

Any yes i ckeaned then up q lil after this pic. Just minor stuff for peace of mind.

 

While I was fresh and rested this morning, I went back through and updated post # 105 with the key points I remembered while removing the more challenging driver's exhaust manifold.

Some but not all were referenced in the numerous videos I watched and other various recommendations I received. A few things others recommended or did in their installation I found unnecessary in mine

 

I didn't even plate mine off. Not necessary with the bypass and these headers. I imagine turn off the SAIS with a tune would be the same as far as not needing the plates.

 

I had wondered about that. I just wondered if it wasn't possible for insects to crawl up the tube and then follow it into the intake.

I would love to do the full delete that I saw in another post sometime in the NOT immediate future lol