2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

Thanks!

 

I should have mentioned that lane centering won't automatically turn back on once the trailer is disconnected. You have to manually do it.

 

Thanks! It is the same with Tow-Haul mode. If you stop for fuel you need to remember to select it again.

 

Nope it does not close. I use ECO always including while in tow mode. I always have LCA off as it is PIA for
driving since 99% of travel encounters some type of road construction which causes LCA to have a shit-fit.

 

Took the Tundra on a long run today. NE experiencing first summer heat wave with temps today at 95. Running 65-80 on the interstate saw Trans Temp consistent at 196 Degrees. (SG3) Interesting part of this was the Trans Temp Gauge in the dash never moved from center. IMO, the gauge is worthless for indicating what the actual temp is. MPG running was 18.4 figured when refueled and from odometer. Most of the run was at +70MPH. It matched dead-on from the MPG electronic gauge.

 

My gauge is not digital - it is the old school style - it never moves off center once warm. The only way I truly know the temp is with the SGII (or equal) readout.

 

With the two recent examples where the coolers did not meet expectations, possible they are impacted by grill shutters closing when at speed? Anyone know the technical specs for grill function? I read they close when at speed for aero, and there is the electric fan providing airflow.

 

Do all of the Tundras come with the grille shutters?

 

grill shutters were open - they are closed until the radiator reaches operating temp. I know there have been conversations about the shutters and how they work in posts somewhere in the Gen3 forum. Can't speak for the other post where the temps were oem and over - suspect the point of interception was not the return line to the transmission - thus the fluid cooled by the cooler was then heated by the hockey puck and then returned to the transmission resulting in oem temps. For me - the unit is simply too small to deliver the temps I expected. Even the 188 I get for highway is far lower than non-cooler oem highway temps. I will be removing the 13402 (32k btu) and replacing it with the 53481 (59k btu).

 

I believe so. The only thing some don't come with is the auto drop air damn - based on trim level of vehicle.

 

I'm replacing the 13402 (32k btu) with the 53481 (59k btu).

 

My 52578 (46KBTU) and 13011 are on the way. May take a week or two for time to install.

 

Lmk how they perform for you. Will be interested in temps.

 

Here is an update on what I have learned after towing my 5200 pound camper twice.

• Without a trans cooler temp reached 226 degrees reading my Banks IDash gage in 72 degree air temperature in late May.
  
• With 59,000 BTU cooler the temp reached 212 degrees this trip in 85 degree heat in June.
• I confirmed that I was connected to the correct transmission line per post #177,178
• I picked up a friend and was showing him where the cooler was mounted. By accident I touched the cooler line and it was cold! What I discovered is the bypass valve/Thermostat does not open until a temperature of 195 - 200 degrees!! I checked it on three different trips and the result was the same! This is in line with what MaxPayne3 said in post #61.
• With no camper the trans temp reached 204 in 90 degree temperature. Today it was just under 200 degrees.

303Gen3 and anyone with a transmission temp gage with an aftermarket cooler can you see if you get similar results on your cooler lines being cold?

From what I am seeing we can only control the heat above 198 degrees unless we bypass the bypass valve/thermostat.
303Gen3 as stated I have the 59,000 BTU cooler. My suggestion would be to add the upgraded cooler to your 32,000 BTU cooler since you already own it. Just my 2 cents.

Boy I must say I like the Banks Idash gage much better that just lines as pointed out below. I am showing transmission temp, coolant temp, and engine oil temp.

 

We might need to get a t-stat and see if we can mod it

 

Isn’t there a way to keep the t stat open?

 

Something does not add up - I know what the temps my 32K BTU is cooling to, and it sounds like we all have connected to the cold return line shown in the most recent conversation posts (177-178). It would seem the bypass valve/thermostat mounted on the body of the transmission is suspect - otherwise there is no way the results of a larger BTU unit would result in hotter temps. The pic shown on post #61 shows the only passages for fluid to and from the transmission. Makes me wonder if the valve itself is stuck closed which would result in higher temps. Wonder if the valve can be "pinned" open (mine is under my cat shield so I'll have to see what I can see - likely nada). FWIW I have not reached under the hood to see if the hoses are cool or not - I have simply monitored the SGII readouts.

 

Might be good time to pick up one of these. Made checking pan temps real easy when I was diagnosing my mom's Juke CVT trans.

$19 Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun 774, Meat Food Candy Oven Thermometer for Griddle Accessories, Heat Gun for Cooking Refrigerator Tools, Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Thermometer-774-Temperature-Accessories/dp/B0B71HFH9K/

 

When I get around doing mine, I'm bypassing everything, straight from the transmission to the aftermarket oil cooler. Engineers tend to over do it! As you have already figured out the OEM valve doesn't open until it's too late. This has been an issue on numerous OE bypass valves, one issue is they get stuck in the closed position and the trans fluid never reaches the cooler. As for the "warmer" it's also unnecessary IMO. Once your transmission fluid gets to about 80 degrees its within "operating range". Your transmission is going to automatically heat up to range just from a short drive as your frictions alone in the drums are going to generate heat. Add the advantage of the active air shutter in our trucks which stays closed (preventing airflow over the radiator & condenser) until the engine is up to operating temperature is a huge advantage for those in colder climates. The other issue even adding inline to the radiator, is that your transmission fluid will never really get cooler than the water temperature in the radiator. Even on the return side, it's still likely to be with 10-15 degrees cooler than the coolant temperature. That's why I had eluded to bypassing everything in my earlier post.

 

This is the way....straight out the trans into external cooler and back in it goes, nice and cool

 

maybe reading the trans fluid level check procedure might tell us. IIRC, tacomas and older tundras required you pin it during the process.

 

This will require some more research, after looking at the transmission thermostat more closely (number 60 on the diagram), it appears to be mechanically operated. On most of the Big 3 units this bypass valve is basically a square chunk of aluminum with an input and an output. The guts are basically a thermistor plunger with a spring. These guts are usually replaceable or can be removed all together, or I just leave the whole thing out and make extensions to connect the tubes together. However, the Toyota one bolts directly to the transmission case which presents a problem. There doesn't appear to be any threaded taps in the case as the thermostat appears machined to fit to a machined part of the case. There doesn't appear to even be a gasket between the thermostat and case housing, usually I would see 2 O rings but nothing on my diagrams indicate any. There does appear to be a hex head cap on the thermostat which may be where the plunger and spring assembly is located. If this is the case, then either one would have to tap threads into the holes (supply and return) on the case for a fitting so you can run 2 lines directly to a cooler, or see if the plunger and spring assembly can be removed so there is fluid flowing freely all the time. Otherwise, we are stuck with a thermostat that is preset to only open at whatever temperature the genius Toyota Engineers designed it for, be it 180, 190, etc degrees. So if the thermostat is set at 180 degrees and your cooler cools the fluid down to say 150 degrees, the thermostat is only going to reopen once the temp reaches 180 degress again, no matter what else in the system is bypassed.

 

I guess the answer is to buy one and take it apart. It starts with the thermostat.

To your point in my last post the transmission temp was within a degree of the engine coolant temperature.

Between buying the Banks gage and the cooler plus my labor to design brackets and install both what I have learned is everything you said is spot on.

 

I know guys over in the Mustang Forum were fabricating a pin to keep the thermostat pined open. I’ll see if I can find it, concept here for this tranny must be the same.

 

Also. I wish Ratio Tek made a kit for the Yota Asin Transmission.

got it installed in my A10 Mustang. Drives like a manual.

https://transend.us/products/681155/details

 

Not the specialist you are - I presume the hexhead with the circle lock clip is the thermostatic valve cylinder?

Wondering what one would cost from the scrap yard? I'm going to call around and see if I can find one on the cheap. Gut it and see what falls out? Maybe a low temp thermostatic replacement or removal with free flow?

Input and insight appreciated.

Do you have access to the fluid level check procedure? If the thermostat has a valve to be "pinned" the procedure should indicate it along with fluid temp range. ???

 

My engine oil temp has never gone over 205ish. Coolant (radiator) is always sub 200 - runs between 185 and 198.

Trans oil temp holds par
with engine oil temp since addition of cooler. Pre trans cooler my engine oil was 205 and trans temp was 215.

Have to think our differences are hybrid (your truck) and non-hybrid (my truck). Hybrid runs hotter by design.

 

I brought my truck to the dealer at 2500 miles to document the high transmission tempature. Talking to the mechanic he told me "keep an eye on the engine oil temperature". He went on to say "if it gets in the red (truck gage) shut it off". He was implying that trucks that have lost a motor (due to metal chips) have had elevated engine oil temps. Towing this last trip my engine oil temp hit 237°! I hope I am not looking at that kind of an issue in my future!!

I don't think the hybrid would influence engine oil temp. The hybrid motor is after the engine and before the transmission.

 

The pics look very similar to the pre Gen3 external cooling unit GCS (a gen 2.5 member) created for the Gen2.5 external cooler solution. His adapter plate maybe our solution?

 

Hope your temps are not related to the debris issue - that simply sucks for everyone impacted.