So I’m halfway thru changing my 2001 4.7 starter and have some issues

So I went to check the wiring on the coolant sensor and I barely stuck the positive probe in the connection and it crumbled in my hands. So I was unable to get a good reading, but I did run a scan again and I have two new codes,
P0100 P0110. Is it possible to just change the connector or does the whole wire bundle have to be replaced? I see that as being quite expensive.

 

while looking for parts, I see my local oriellys has this water temp sensor for $22 in stock. I prefer OEM but in this instance I need to get this vehicle up and running so I'm gonna get that and see if they have the connector as well.

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...yota-sequoia?q=water+temperature+sensor&pos=0

The part in question.

 

You can snag another connector from a toyota/lexus with the same style from a junkyard or order a new connector and terminals (w/pigtail) directly from toyota.

 

When I was at Oriellys I ordered the connector which will be here at lunch tomorrow. The new water sensor is in and I'll splice in the pigtail connector tomorrow with some solder/heat shrink wrap connectors. I REALLY hope this solves my issues. Seems odd that a cracked connector could cause all these problems.

 

Toyota sells the connector and you can repin your wires into them. Only OEM or Denso. Tundras don’t like other brands. Exception the MAF is Hitachi.

 

Here's a video - 1 of many - showing how to re-use pinned wiring by removing the pins and reinstalling in the new connector instead of splicing, soldering, and heatshrinking the pigtail, but must keep track of which wire goes where!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W9IvtPmw62Q

May have some small tools at home already to do this or can order an assortment for like $10 online and IIRC Lisle makes some more expensive ones that may be at your local parts store.

 

Ok. I’ll call the Toyota dealer when they open and see when I can get that connector. Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for the video link, that’ll come in handy.

 

Bryan, with the codes that I’ve had show up and the symptoms, are you of the opinion this new connector SHOULD remedy this rough idle/CEL issue or is there something else I did that is causing this?

 

Well it looks as though I’m gonna have to go ahead and use the O’Reilly’s connections because I called both of the Toyota dealers that are closest to me, which each is at least an hour away in opposite directions, and one told me two weeks to get the connectors and one told me 3+ weeks as they have to order them from California. We were going to take this on a trip in a couple of weeks and I need to make sure that it runs and works fine before we leave for that trip. I can appreciate that OEM connectors are better but in this scenario and my timeline is it an acceptable gamble or will I have problems from the very start?

 

IMO, as long as you're not cutting wires, it's not a problem. I personally hate Oreilly's, nothing but shit experiences with them, their staff, their selection, their service. But if what they offer you will allow you to simply de-pin your OEM and re-pin those wires (take a photo of the old connector first) directly into their connector, I say "it's better than what you got".

I suspect you could probably order from an online dealer and get it within a couple of days though. Ourisman, Serra of Birmingham, or similar.

 

I have similar feelings about O’Riellys and NAPA is always more expensive than anyone. Those two shops and Walmart are my only options for an hour. I called back and spoke with the parts manager at the dealer nearest me and he said that can expedite it and it should be here Friday. I’ll just do that. I wanna do this once and be done with it. Thanks again.

 

The water temp connector is easy enough to order. The other connection that cracked that I’m attempting to order is proving elusive. I’ve spoken with 3 Toyota dealers and nobody knows what the part number is for the connector in the pics attached. It connects to the vacuum valve switch bolted to the top of the manifold. It has two wires coming out, a white and green and a brown and green. Any assistance there is appreciated.

 

I think that is for the vacuum switching valve. Try 90980-11156. If that doesn’t work PM me your email and I send you a pdf with connectors from the catalog.

 

@daveeasa you seem to know connectors well, any idea what this one is?

 

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=663

 

Dude you're a fucking wizard!

 

Yup that’s the same as the 11156 connector. I’m gonna order 1 too as mine cracked taking it off today. Thanks Dave

 

Definitely seems like you identified the Toyota part number. I searched off mental history as this connector is used for 3rd gen Tacoma fog intercept as well as sidemarker duty on 2nd gen Tacoma and whatevergenisthecurrentone T4R.

 

After many attempts that was the same part number the closest dealer ordered so it looks like we got it right. Thanks for the help!

 

I know who I’ll be buying my connectors from from here on out! Thank you.

 

No joke. You guys have forgotten more than I know about Toyota. lol.

 

well, the toyota dealer an hour away got the parts in 2 days ago and was supposed to hold them so I could pick them up. He decided to ship them to me, which isn't what I wanted him to do, and now they're halfway across the midwest and won't be here until Monday. I've realized the one major flaw with this sequoia seems to be OEM parts availability and finding a dealer that is familiar with these vehicles. A weeks long project initially is now gonna take a month or more. If it wasn't so frustrating it would be comical. I did get the connectors off thanks to the video linked above by toyotadude so thank you for that, it was pretty straight forward. I was looking back at my maintenance log and saw my MAF sensor was a decade old so I got a Hitachi OEM part and replaced that as well. The money I set aside for this project is gone so I hope I don't end up having to take it to a mechanic for diagnostics if these connectors don't fix the issue. If anyone has any other suggestions for what I can look at I'm all ears. Thanks again for staying with me thru this mess.

 

BTW IIRC think mine idles at like 600 or maybe 700 (when in park per the dash guage) but smoothly. I know you're dealing with some codes and hopefully get those resolved. But is that RPM considered low? And what is the roughness you're seeing ... does it lope or stagger or something?

 

I’m not positive the idle is the issue. The roughness feels like a rhythmic rumble that quickly comes and goes but it’s enough to make the vehicle rumble and vibrate the steering wheel. It’s not bouncing all over the place but it ran very smooth before this project so I’ve done something to cause it, I just don’t know what. I can’t say if it’s a misfire, if an injector is acting up, or just what. Once these connectors get here I’ll try and take a video to post here and see what the forum thinks. Thanks for the reply,

 

Well, two steps forward and one step back so it seems. I got the connectors from UPS a bit ago, changed them out, reconnected the new water temp sensor, the new MAFS, vacuum hoses, etc., and started it. It starts fine like before but I heard a "pop" from the right (passenger) side of the engine bay immediately upon start up. I still have the solid CEL and VSC lights on. Now, It does run a BIT smoother but still not as smooth as before this project started so something is still off. I ran the codes and I have only one code now which is the P1300. The videos I took are too big for this site so I uploaded them to IMGR and here are the links. In the first video where it starts facing the dash, you can hear the pop sound right as I started it. It could be decieiving but it didn't sound like it came from the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay. The second video, towards the end, you can see the hoses vibrating that helps show the rough idle I'm referring too. The battery has been disconnected for a few days.
Pop Video from Dash view -https://imgur.com/a/dLMyBHv
Engine bay view -https://imgur.com/a/iuhvOE3

 

Update - I decided to try and take it for a spin around my yard just to see how it would handle gear changes, shifting, etc. Well, I put the vehicle in reverse and the vehicle runs VERY rough. I backed out of the garage and put it into drive and it ran just as bad as Reverse. After about 40' it was stumbling and running pretty bad so I put it back in the garage and shut it down. My mechanic is 5 miles away so I may have to have it towed if I can't at least get it running decently, regardless of any dash lights. The pop heard in the video link from a few hours ago has not happened again.

I did run the codes again and all it still shows is P1300. I am wondering if this is as simple as a vacuum line that I've attached to the incorrect spot. I looked over everything and it looks right to me but I could be missing something. Any merit to that line of thinking?

 

Post some pics of the engine and bay from various angles and we’ll compare to known good configurations.P1300 is igniter circuit malfunction. Confirm all coils Denso and carefully check wiring and connectors seated properly.

 

The coils are all original so I’m not sure of one is broke or what. I’ve checked each coil connection and injector connection multiple times and they all are clicking in. I see no damaged wires. Below are pics. Hopefully they work. If you need a specific angle, let me know and I’ll zoom in more. Thank you.