So I’m halfway thru changing my 2001 4.7 starter and have some issues

You know you can purchase the connectors new from Toyota and repin your harness into them.

 

So do you have a spare bolt/washers to replace the one that snapped? Dealer might have it but might have to wait overnight ...or even consider hardware store. Looks like you got the busted end of it out of the female threads?

 

It snapped off when I was tightening it so the threaded part is broken off in the hole, flush with the surface. I’d have to drill it out.

 

Might be worth at least an attempt. Center punch and drill with some pen oil and then extractor.

 

And left hand drill bit

 

Well, here’s the latest. I’ve had a few hiccups getting the right parts this past week so I drove an hour last week to a Toyota dealer and thought I got the parts ordered. When I originally removed the fuel lines that attach to the intake manifold, I either lost the washers or there weren’t any on there. I can’t find any and didn’t see any when I removed the banjo bolt. The parts arrived today and I have two stainless silver looking metal washers and two copper metal washers. I’m not sure which goes where or if these are even the right parts. I assumed, possibly incorrectly, that the parts would be a rubber type gasket. Once I get these on correctly I’ll be able to see if the vehicle starts and runs after all this.

 

If the silver ones have 4 inner tangs, they're designed to pass fuel. Usually for the damper.

The copper ones are used where fuel doesn't need to pass by.

 

Ok, so I finally got it all back together and the moment of truth had the engine start after a few seconds to get fuel going. I see no leaks, smell no gas, don't see any fluids where they shouldn't be but that's just idling in the garage. However, not all is well. I have a rough idle and it runs at about 700-800 or so RPM. That seems a bit lower than before. In addition to the rough idle, I have two codes. One is a P0115 and a P1300. In addition to the rough idle, the VSC off VSC on lights will come on about 5 seconds after I start the truck. SO the good news is the new starter works fine, but I now have another issue to remedy. I just hope it doesn't require removing all I did. Thanks again for all the assistance.

 

I would disconnect and reconnect all your coils and your temp senders making sure no pins are bent and the connectors fully seat first

Assuming battery was disconnected, the ECU has to re-learn settings. It may take a few minutes before idle smooths out.

 

pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by "temp senders"?

 

Coolant temperature senders up near the throttle body. One is green other is grey.

 

Wait - didn’t you have an issue with those wires?

 

If you disconnected the battery for more than 10 minutes during this process, it’s normal to have wild idle, that caused a reset of the ECU, triggering a relearn. Especially if your throttle body has any buildup. Also common to happen if you clean your throttle body but fail to reset ECU by taking negative battery cable off for 10min. EDIT: But the codes, yes, @bfunke got you covered. Green is the one the ECU uses to check temp. Other goes to your gauge in dash. He is spot on with all this. Spot on.

 

I checked all the coil and injector connections. They all seem to be connected correctly and fully and I see no broken wires. The green (coolant) connection WAS loose a little bit and yes, I did have an issue in that the part of the clip where you slide the screwdriver in to release it broke slightly on the exterior, but it is still connected solid. I have had the battery disconnected for almost 10 days. I went back and looked at my maintenance log and I cleaned the throttle body last fall and it is still very clean. I checked all the other connections and they all seem to be connected correctly.

Now, I do have a few vacuum lines that are very old and they started to split when I put them back on their respective connections, but I used electrical tape to hold them together until I can go and get either generic line and cut to fit, or order the correct ones from Toyota. I would assume some basic line from Oriellys would work?

 

@bfunke is totally correct on all accounts.

I would probably use something like what @Tundra2 used over here, but sure, if Oreillys has the corred ID/Od hose, may as well. https://www.tundras.com/posts/2937490/

Show us a picture of what your throttle body looks like, with the butterfly/plate closed, and open. Don't let the plate slam shut, and never spray anything into the TB directly. Do you have a bottle of throttle body cleaner, specifically labeled as that? Not carb cleaner. Throttle body cleaner. Sorry, gotta say it, seen some shit on the internet before.

 

I looked thru the link you added and I do think some new vacuum lines are in order. I will take the two cracked ones to oriellys or Napa and see if they have the same thing. I normally buy OEM parts but rubber hoses shouldn't be an issue I assume? I'll need to disassemble the intake again to get that pic. It's spotless and I only ever use the correct cleaner. MAF for MAF, Throttle body cleaner for TB, etc.

 

Regarding the battery being disconnected for so long. Do I need to let it run for a certain length of time to reset the ECU? It would be great if that was this issue.

 

Cracked vacuum lines will absolutely screw with your idle. As will vacuum lines not re-attached in the correct place. We've seen both done here.

 

copy that. I will get those cracked ones changed out and report back. Thanks for the help!

 

Thank Bryan, he said it first.

 

He has been extremely helpful as have you and a few others. I absolutely could not have gotten to this point without Y'alls help. I can't say thank you enough. If you were close, a steak dinner would be on me! Is sizzler still around? lol

 

If replacing the valve cover gaskets and PCV valve while also pulling the manifold to proactively install new copper contacts and dress the plunger plate in the starter, what else should be planned to do proactively while in there such as cleaning the TB, intake manifolds and ports, and EGR/MAF? And are there existing writeups on the procedures or just follow the FSM?

Have seen many videos on valve cover gasket replacements and starter replacement. And searched the mega thread but didn't find reference to the TB, intake manifold, and EGR/MAF (although may have missed it if it's there) but maybe this thread or that one (that probably should have said to use TB cleaner instead of brake cleaner) .... and of course @bmf4069's dishwasher procedure!

 

So I replaced the torn vacuum lines, started it up and it still runs rough, vsc lights come on 5-6 seconds after start up. Same codes as yesterday. I also topped off the coolant as I had forgot to do that and then started it again and let it run for 3 or so minutes and it still runs rough. Not sure what I did but I’m officially at a loss as to how to proceed.

 

Throttle body pics.

 

I just removed the coolant temp sensor just to see if it is corroded or if something was obviously wrong. It looks fine, no build up, coolant was there. Connection seems solid.

 

Need to test the coolant sensors and the wiring against the FSM spec to make sure they are operating properly.

 

Well, after taking the throttle body off for pics, double checking all the connections again, and reassembling everything, I somehow made it worse. lol. It runs the same but I now how the ABS light flashing on the dash, the VSC OFF light is on solid and the VSC TRAC light is flashing. The CEL light is on solid.

 

Same codes?

 

Yes. I'm going to check the wiring and the sensor with my multimeter to see what I get. I'll report back shortly.