Alpine ILX-F511. Game Changer

I've never had that issue once with mine.

 

I think mine is set one "notch" lower. It's a touch closer to the AC controls, but still clear.
But I'm a long ways away from mine to go take a look and confirm.

Edit: here's the post in my build thread. Yes - it's one notch lower.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rainmans-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-29#post-3332914

 

screens are measured diagonally corner to corner. It's the viewable diagonal measurement.

 

Right, that's why I was asking because the measurements on Crutchfield weren't specifying.

 

Pretty much the industry standard.
All TVs and monitors are measured diagonally...

 

Anyone know if these are still available, will be stopping by local stores tomorrow.

 

They are still available - just no where near the price they were when this thread started. I think I did see some 9” screen Pioneer on sale a couple weeks ago though.

 

Thanks, crazy deal for those that got in.

 

Anyone know why my Trans temp is grayed out? Would love to have that feature for towing the camper.

 

@Azblue just got done wrestling with that himself. Said it was a Maestro setting. Did you validate your PIDs?

 

Is your truck actually on and running? Do that, make sure your OBD setting is on or enabled on demand, and validate PIDs.

 

Yes, the truck was on and running at the time. Could you explain how to validate the PID's? I didn't do the install. Thanks

 

I don't have this particular HU but I went to Car Features on my Pioneer then pressed the little cog icon (settings) and saw Validate PIDs

 

I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

 

That did the trick. You guys are the best!!

 

Glad it was an easy fix for ya.

 

I realize this has been asked once/twice before.... (I've been around a while, just not posted a lot)
Just got my ILX-F511 installed and really wanting to put a brake bypass module in to toggle settings during drive mode.
I've seen a few brands mentioned but haven't seen which is the best (imagine they all do the same thing)

Looks like only 3 wires is all that is required right? (ground, remote, parking brake wire)
I also am using the maestro rr unit.... which I wanted to ask for clarification on.

Is the Green/yellow wire (brake sensor wire) from the HU to the RR clipped or taped into?
...If clipped, then the bypass module connects to green/yellow... which would leave the RR clipped side to be capped/taped?

Lastly, if the RR was using this as an input, has anyone noticed any issues for lose of function?

 

see post #8, it’s the first diagram.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-great-hu-install-of-2023.129229/

 

Got another question about this head unit...
I see the preamp voltage is rated at 4 volts. (RCAs measure between 1.9v - 2.5v at volume level 27, which is ~75% of the max 35)

I am running a JL Audio 700/5v2 amp, which has a RCA input voltage selector switch
Low - 2v
High - 8v

Currently I configured the setup to use the High (8v) setting and everything sounds clean, but it the volume is usually set around 20-24 (35 max) to really hear and feel the music.

Curious what others are running their amps at if you have an input selector like this?

From the Manual:

 

Anyone pick up an extra head unit that might want to help out a fellow member, PM me. Thanks

 

"High" is for speaker level inputs, as in if you were feeding the amp signal from the wiring that would normally go to the speakers from either an upstream amp or the head unit. If you're using RCA outputs from the HU, select "Low" on the input selector.

 

I do not disagree with what you said... however the section I highlighted is specific to this amp also mentions it can be used for preamp rcas with a higher voltage, which the ILX-F511 seems to have (4 volts).
Just did not want to push a 2.5volt signal to an amp that is set to only receive up to 2v (max) which set to low. Would you consider 4 volts to be a "High signal"?

however....
I contacted Alpine and they pointed fingers to JL Audio.
JL Audio commented and said either could be used, but preferred the HIGH setting.

This forum is more "real world" to me and would assume a lot of the members watching/commenting on this thread own the F511 or family of head units.
Just trying to get a consensus of what others are setup to use.

 

Do a live chat with Crutchfield and see what they say.

 

I’ve never heard RCAs referred to as anything other than “low level” inputs. All the way up to 5 volts. As @TRDFerguson pointed out - high level inputs refer to using speaker outputs from a HU.

 

Guys, I'm having trouble with the stock backup camera being intermittent. I found a youtube video about the F 511 needing a second ground for the reverse camera. I pinched a ground wire in the RCA connector and grounded it to a metal bar in the back of the stereo "pocket" in the dash and it seemed to work but now it is flickering and going black again. When it acts up it does it when putting the truck in reverse and when you use the camera button. I bought the unit through Trailgrid pro and have been working with them for several months on this. They are now saying they reached out to Alpine about it and Alpine says they have not heard of this issue. They are suggesting I call Alpine. Have any of you had this problem and found a solve for it?

 

onto this issue.... I'm also not seeing the transmission temp, have the X next to it.
Have performed a soft reset on the maestro RR, clicked the ODB2 calibrate function and clicked the validate PIDS.
Contacted trailgridpro where I purchased the unit from. They mentioned there has been several others experiencing this issue and there really isn't a good answer to why some tundras show it and others do not.
Something else I want to try is next time my trailer is connected, going into the tundra vehicle settings on the dash cluster to select the trailer type, weight..etc and performing the ODB2 calibration and PID validation again to see if that changes anything?
Otherwise, I'll check with iDatalink/Maestro support to see if they have any details.


Aside from that, I am getting ready to hook up an external HDMI/USB extension to the rear console for the kids and install a e-brake bypass module.
While I am doing that, I will take care of the speaker/amp/rca setup to switch the input level to LOW and recalibrate the input/output voltages and gains.

 

@Azblue mentioned changing the settings in his Maestro to get it goin.