Clunking noise when coasting to a stop and pressing on accelerator

Did you look at the one closest to the pinion yoke? Did you pull it from the diff and take a look at the caps and needle bearings?

 

I don't think it's your U-joints. They look tight from the videos. A better test might be to crawl under it when it's in neutral (chock the wheels so you don't run yourself over) and shove something in the joint to pry it back and forth and see if you can see anything, but from the videos I don't see any (obvious) slop. The backlash looks pretty normal.

I'd be more inclined to look at the leaf spring hangars and shackle and pry on those and see if there's slop there. Another thing you could try is if you have the rear driveshaft removed, take it for a spin in 4WD so it's effectively a front wheel drive vehicle (in offroading this is called front dig) and see if the noise persists. Though ultimately that would only tell you if the noise is indeed from the rear or not, but if the noise still happens then you know for sure it's not from the rear driveshaft---albeit I suspect you wouldn't hear the noise anyway since there'd be no torque going through the rear end. But you also said it happens when you go from reverse to drive, so if you're pulling the driveshaft to do the U-joints then that's an easy driveway test.

As for what U-joints, I run Spicer on my buggy. Never touched the Tundra ones, so I'd also lean towards OEM being fine. Toyota U-joints don't often wear out, not to say it doesn't happen.

 

Sounds like I have a busy weekend! Thanks for the suggestions, ill let you guys know if I find anything!

 

I was going to suggest carrier bearing, I had a very similar issue in my Tacoma, and replacing that solved it.

 

I have driven in FWD on a solid axle platform but didn't know it could be done in IFS. Very interesting.

 

This ^^

 

Yea shouldn't make any difference. If the driveshaft is pulled the rear transfercase output will spin, but that's it. Up front the differential will behave the same like in a car. On fancy transfercases this is an explicit option to be able to do, so you have RWD, 4WD, and FWD. Truck should be totally fine, and there won't be any binding since the rear end is just free spinning since it's not coupled to the front anymore.

I would have zero issue driving down the interstate even if needed. It's just like driving in 4Hi except you won't bind up the driveshafts. I guess that's the only thing to be crystal clear about to OP @Andhon is the rear driveshaft must be removed completely since the transfercase will still spin, if you leave it on and just disconnected from the rear axle it'll flop around and destroy everything. But if you remove the driveshaft completely, it may as well be a Camry then.

 

Does my carrier bearing look bad?

https://imgur.com/a/TB2kIzv

https://imgur.com/a/u4gTDyu

 

yes. its supposed to be bolted to the frame...

but honestly, I'm not sure if its supposed to have that much lateral play, even un-bolted, my uneducated opinion is that its probably worn, and new one would probably help.

 

This just happened to me, but I was fighting a new sound that I couldn't find for the life of me, until I decided to check every bolt and nut on the chassis. Turns out the knuckleheads at the alignment shop didn't torque down one of my cam nuts. Took it back, the addressed it, been silent every since. Checking every bolt is cheap and easy to do and may help you find something you weren't expecting.

 

I went in to grease my slip yolk and come to find out, it was drier than Africa! Put some grease in and reassembled and the clunking noise is non-existent! I guess the dry slip yolk was causing the clunking noise I've been trying to fix