Good sub box for 2 10 inch subs behind bench seat

for me, I wish I would of just held off and bought the better stuff for my cars growing up. I spent entirely TOO MUCH $$ on things didn't made no real difference in the vehicles drivability or performance. Or would just flat out break because they were of "meh" quality.

I stand by what I said. Investing the little $$ you have now to make you more $$ later. Then you can throw BAD ASS TOP OF THE LINE parts into your car/truck. Then it's $$ well spent and you didn't have to work for that $$. Your $$ made you that $$.

but yea. Truck go BOOMBOOM. I'm sure your friend will, like, be jealous or something. And you'll definitely get more ladies.......

 

Yeah, but ... naw. The kinda chicks that chase after dudes with a booming system are typically NOT the kinda chicks you wanna lay pipe in. Let the other dude have 'em.

 

I have friends who are dads but not husbands because of those kinds of women

 

I just want some cool subwoofers dude I'm done with women

 

you know what's cooler than a sound system? A 18-20 year old truck that has a bunch of brand new parts that make it more reliable.

I used a Bose Bluetooth speaker for years in my current truck. Using my funds for LBJ, Timing Belt, water pump,and a bunch of new tools to get the job(s) done. Then I bought a system that cost no more than $500 in total.

again. You do YOU boo-boo

 

Dad told me early on, "never stick your dick in crazy".

That was especially difficult during the years I lived in FL, both stints. I hope doing 23 & Me with the family ("for fun") doesn't end up screwing up my marriage later in life.

 

Ya I could make it reliable or I could buy a 7.3 from my buddy and swap it in for shits and giggles, doesn't mean I'm going to lol

 

This is the head unit I have, would it work this this amp
https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-bass-800-1-channel-800-watts-rms/p

 

It'll work with any amp with low-level inputs, which is basically every amp on the market these days.

 

All my stuff just came in, once I get it set up in a few days I'll send pictures.
My head unit is 340 Watts and the subs are 250 watt rms each
Will I need a new battery?
I have the 5z-fe v6

 

That 340w rating is adding up all the "channels." So 50x4 (front and rear) plus 50w rear = 250w. Just as an example to illustrate where the 340 comes from. Thats likely just the max rating you wont ever see...youll see half or less than that depending on the speakers you get (The ohms rating). You wont be overpowering anything with the HU alone. You'll find out if your battery is weak once you slap everything on and start bumping...might be good enough for now

 

Wait, your HU is 340w? Did you get an amp?

 

Yes ofc I did but my head unit is gonna use more power than the stock radio so it got me worried

 

Your HU isn't going to use more than MAYBE 50w RMS. Most HUs put out 25w RMS per channel IIRC. If the HU doesn't have an internal crossover you'll blow your door speakers.

 

Internal crossover? Is that like sending bass to the sub out and mids to door speakers?

 

You will need a crossover to keep the bass away from the front speakers. Most use another mids/highs amp to do that, as they have a built in crossover. If you use the HU, make sure it has an internal crossover.

 

I can't find anything involving internal crossover and this hu but it has sub1 and sub2 out?
I have a different hu than I sent before, it didn't fit right, so now I bought a boss BE920WCPA

 

If it's new it should have one in it. It's in the menu settings.

 

Internal crossover, you can set a high pass filter (only frequencies above the selected frequency are passed along) to your door speakers. Recommend starting at 80hz high pass. Low pass at 80hz for the subwoofer. Same thing, only frequencies at/below selected frequency are passed along to the sub. Then, once you have your low pass and high pass set, mess with the slope for both to blend the sound to whatever suits your taste. Find your favorite song, one with which you are familiar with the musical quality of it.

The owners manual for your headunit is below. Check the audio settings to change the sound output to your taste.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DMH-1500NEX_OperationManual111020.pdf

Your DMH-1500NEX is only specced to 22W x 4 @ 4 Ohms RMS which is the only spec you need to keep in mind. Max wattage is only for burst and is not continuous wattage the headunit can handle.

 

To go along with @artsr2002 I wish I knew about "crossovers" or what I usually just call the high and low pass filters when I was first doing audio stuff. Your door speakers can handle whatever you throw at them most likely but can sound bad at high volume with a lot of bass. The biggest thing you gain using the high pass is you're not sending the low bass signals to your door speakers which won't produce nearly as much bass as your subwoofer(s) so there's no sense sending the bass there as it may just distort them anyway.

Advantage of low pass is that you're not trying to send the subwoofer the higher frequencies that they can't produce well anyway. I usually do 100HZ for both myself but you can play around with it and see what you think is best.

If you end up controlling the filters with your head unit, make sure your amp is set to full range and you're not using the built in low pass filter in the amp. If you find your head unit doesn't have a filter built in (it should it's new) then you can usually control it with the amp itself.

 

I will add to these fellas, be sure set your gain on the amp properly. Use this chart.




I'll use mine for an example with E= sqrt(PxR)

I need to find what E(voltage) I need my amp to put out. So, I know my subs handle 500w RMS a piece for a total of 1000w RMS. Do not use peak handling for this! I know the resistance is 4 ohms for a total of 2 ohms.

Therefore, E=sqrt(1000x2)
E=sqrt(2000)
E=44.72

So, I zeroed out every setting in my deck. Bass boost, loudness, EQ, etc. Then, I ran a 30hz test tone with the subs unhooked and checked the voltage at the output of the amp with a multi-meter. Set your volume to 3/4 maximum. Start with the gain at the lowest at turn it up till you get to the voltage you need.

I did the same thing with the fronts, set at 1khz, but I have a separate amp for them. With those settings, I don't need to adjust any settings that we zeroed out before.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-mQmuxuUE6Hi/p_104BE920WP/BOSS-Audio-BE920WCPA.html
I used the Crutchfield compatibility thing and it said this works so I bought it.
The other hu looked too goofy it was small as hell.
I found something in the manual that says there is crossover so I'll be okay on that front I just want to make sure everything works together before I put it all in the truck

 

I think you need to read up a little on everything involved in your system.

There are MANY factors that can seriously affect the outcome of the music. To get the most out of each component requires you to know what it's role is, what it's limits are, and why. It seems to me that you ask us to tell you what you don't know, but that won't help you understand the WHY.
When tackling an audio system in your truck, the vital information about source quality, system hierarchy, processing, component delineation and purpose, mouting baffles, sound deadening, noise control, tuning, phasing, and so on... is extensive and necessary to understand.

We want to see you succeed, but self research can go a long way to eliminate mistakes and re-dos. We can help guide the information you seek after you have familiarized yourself with basics of what you have and what your goals are (realistic goals). I mean that by saying stop counting max Watts of a generic sub and trying to build a whole system around it. A system works as a collective unit, with all components working together, efficiently, and reliably within spec. To do that, you must understand more than just how many watts something is. ...And NO HU has enough power to "bump" speakers by itself and be clean.

I would like to help you achieve your goals, but I don't think you actually understand what it takes to do so effectively, and that requires research. (Not just popping questions on a forum).

 

I'm confuse, earlier you posted pics of a Pioneer 1500NEX unit and then you posted a link to a shitty Boss headunit so what the dealio? You replacing the Pioneer with the crappy Boss or is that Pioneer not something you have? Give us a better rundown of what going on here boss.

 

Okay so I tried to put the pioneer one in the truck and the wiring harness didn't fit and the head unit was small as hell, one of my friends had a boss that I liked so I bought one and now my current plan is to use the boss one because Crutchfield said it's compatible with my truck.
This might sound stupid but I have a power supply next to me and I'm going to run the subs in my room first before I put them in the truck because I'm kinda stupid and wanna make sure they work before I spend hours putting them in a truck without testing them first.

 

Based on the picture, that setup will make sound, but not sure you're getting the true output. That's some small gauge wire coming from that 110 to 12v converter. Also not an overly large converter. Need a 12V battery in between the two, otherwise the converter may not be able to match the peak demands of the amp.

 

Yes it was only running very low and was underpowered, I had to order the amp on Amazon and not the taramps website bc the 2 ohm version was sold out so I was paranoid it wouldn't work.
The subs hit even at low power it could be heard all the way across my house.

 

I think you’ll be impressed in the truck

 

RF, even their cheaper shit, is good. You'll be happy with those subs.