What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

I painted the stock wheels. Very minor change but I think it makes a big difference.

 

So I pulled the trigger and bought OEM LCAs. Last weekend I installed some MOOG LCA ball joints. During the install they went in crooked and then slapped in straight the last couple of inches. Seeing the LCA ball failures on the 1st Gens, I didn't want to be the first person to have a 2nd Gen with a failed MOOG LBJ. Additionally, I offroad a bunch which also means a lot of highway time. In October we are going up to Port Angeles, WA from San Diego and I wouldn't want to have a failure going 70mph. I can't even imagine what that would look like.

I was going back and forth between OEM or Dirt King but it was hard for me to justify spending an additional $1700. I'd go Dirt King or Total Chaos if my rig was on some crazy crack head shit but it's just on 3.5 inch lift and 35s.

What I'm eye'ing at now is going the extra mile and installing the SuperPro bushing kit.

 

Replaced the rear brakes and rotors for the 3rd time in 230k miles.

I've only replaced the front brakes and rotors twice on the front.

Seems odd to me that the rears wear 2x as fast as the front.

I do a lot of towing, so I'm going to attribute that fact to that.

With that said, it's amazing how easy it is to change the rear brakes assemblies.

 

Well, might regret it.. But I sold it!

 

Planning on a replacement yet?

 

2024 TRD Off Road Taco.. Tried to like the gen3 Tundra but just I can’t get there.

 

Finally got the fender flares on. Came out really nice. I'll let the sun fade them some then I'll go back and raptor line them. These are the Tyger Auto flares from Amazon.

 

I got this earlier in the week. Got to give it a bath and a good inspection. Looks great.

 

Greased the drive shaft and pumped out the steering fluid and refilled. I am almost caught up on the PM on my truck.

 

Installed my roll up tonneau cover and Victory 4x4 bed rack. Going against the norm and will mount my normal style Jerry cans instead of a roto fuel can. Waiting for those mounts. Supper happy with the change and functionality compared to my old camper shell.

 

Installed a TRD rear sway bar yesterday and a close up of the 35" spare tires clearance since I was under there.

Late night wash today.

 

What's your offset, it looks pretty darn close to flush, perfect. I'm trying to decide if I have to run a spacer for when I put my Bushwacker oe flares on. I'll be on a +12 wheel.

 

I honestly do not know. The wheels were on the truck when I got it. They are monster XD wheels and according to their website they would either be 18mm or 35mm. If anyone else wants to chime in I would appreciate it because I've been looking to get a spare wheel as well, but I would imagine based on the information from the website they would be 18mm. The tires are 325/60/18 I imagine that would contribute to the appearance of a negative offset.

 

What codes were you getting?

 

Transmission ones mainly with a few engine codes. I have a stack of them... drop them links on threads I made about them...
P0301 Misfire cylinder 1
P0303 Misfire cylinder 3
P0304 Misfire cylinder 4
P0305 Misfire cylinder 5 Main culprit, failed plug
P0307 Misfire cylinder 7
P0894 Transmission component slipping (LSD, VSC flashing Trac light)
P2757 Torque Convertor clutch pressure control stuck off (LSD, VSC flashing Trac light)
P2714 pressure control solenoid D performance stuck off (LSD, VSC flashing Trac light)
P0973 Shift solenoid "A" control circuit low (Immediate CEL)
p0751 Shift solenoid "A" performance stuck off (Immediate CEL)
p0894 Transmission component slipping (LSD, VSC flashing Trac light)
P2714 Performance "D" stuck off (replaced this)
C1201 ABS code (Nothing)
P0335 Crankshaft position "A" Sensor (Immediate CEL)
P0340 Camshaft position "A" sensor circuit bank 1 (Immediate CEL)
P0345 Camshaft position "A" sensor circuit bank 2 (Immediate CEL)
P0365 Camshaft position "B" sensor circuit bank 1 (Immediate CEL)
P0390 Camshaft position "B" sensor circuit bank 2 (Immediate CEL)

P0894 | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)
I think a rodent got me. Transmission and engine codes. | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)
Possible HG failure. | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Installed the full SPD equal-length exhaust system (downpipes + cat-back). I witnessed a drop in boost pressure with it flowing so much better. The truck sounds MEAN!

 

So what ended up fixing your P2757 code?

 

Do you currently have that code? This worked for me. When I did a atf drain and fill after the trickle replace the check plug and add an additional 1/2 qt. I also disabled flex apply/release for the torque converter. P2757 and my 30-40mph shudder is gone. It can also happen from a worn TC relay valve that is worn, usually replaced with an oversized one.

 

Yep, replaced my TC about 2.5 years ago, got the P2757 a couple months ago and just haven’t had time to start digging but I’ve been collecting info; I did see you post about the overfill, that’s my first attempt at a fix hopefully this weekend, also gonna ohm out the TCC solenoid to confirm if that’s bad or not

I’m assuming the disabling of the flex apply is in your tune? I’m in a bit of a weird boat since I’ve got the A750F transmission and from what I can tell no one has unlocked a TCM for it

also been looking at a Sunnex zip kit which replaces a lot of the plungers in the valve body but haven’t dug into the trans enough yet to even begin throwing parts at it, hopefully gonna ohm it out one day at the shop this week

 

Just saw you have the 4.7/a750. Hopefully its just a little low on the atf or just a failing relay. The sonnaxx zip kits are nice sometimes the bore needs to be reamed for a larger valve or accumulator. They even give some troubleshooting advice with each kit. Good luck!

 

yeah I was looking at the transgo kit as well which requires reaming, figure I would do the sonnaxx kit first or just buy a new valve body at that point

 

@joseph_womack
Sonnax has oversized valve kits that require reaming too. Just FYI in case you decide.

 

Replaced the solenoid.

 

I replaced the windshield washer pump. It seems they tend to corrode internally. I popped the old one apart and it shows some signs of corrosion. A quick spray with DeOxit D5 and it works again. I'll hose it down with DeOxit in the motor housing, and Ballistol in the pump section, then put it away for next time. Almost invariably, I never need the spares I accumulate. If you plan to change yours, here's an excellent video on the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QsT8Hbq9vo

 

Hey bud, I've got the same transmission as you and installed an aftermarket cooler. I replaced the heater puck with the thermostatic one from Toyota. I'll get you PN's and photos this weekend.. The first bolt I tried loosening on the puck snapped, so I waited for new bolts to arrive. They are threaded though!

 

Replaced Ebay roof drip mold with OEM. Stay away from the Ebay ones. They're inches shorter. See pic below.

 

Ironically enough when I pulled my trans 2 years ago to replace my TC, I snapped the first bolt on the puck too lol, one I get this solenoid swapped in going to throw a cooler on as well; I’ll probably skip the Toyota thermostat and just have it constant flowing. But part numbers would be very appreciated when you get time! Thank you!

side note: how’re those dirty deeds injectors doing now? What it’s gotta be over a year later right?

 

Finally pulled my transmission pan last night, fluid actually looks really good; it had gotten flushed about 22k miles ago when I swapped my torque converter. I confirmed the SLU solenoid was indeed bad (reading 6.1 Ohms instead of 5-5.6). Gonna dig into finding one today, valve body and wiring all look really good as well. Only bad thing was the clutch material in the pan, unsure if that was from the new torque convert breaking in or the old one going out, not a crazy amount of metal either

when this is all said and done I’ll also throw a transmission cooler in to keep the trans temps town a bit, it likes to get hotter than I would like

 

At what milage did your torque convert start to go out?

 

I had been getting shudders for honestly like 30k miles; they were relatively infrequent until they started getting worse and then I put Shudder stop in the trans which made the shudders quit until the trans finally threw a code.

probably started getting light tc issues at around 200k and finally changed it at 230k when the cell finally triggered.
Apparently the 2007-2008 had tc problems