Best option for leveling, and what else to consider???

Hello,

I have been reading through the forum, I have seen a lot of great info! I am however new to Tundras (looking at buying an 02, V8, access cab, 4x2). My other vehicle nets out of 4" of lift and running 35s.... I do not want to do anything that major to the tundra. I am really just looking for:


The best/most complete option for leveling the Tundra, while retaining stock ride quality?

What other things should I consider replacing/upgrading to accommodate the leveling (more wear/stress on other parts?

Also, other things that are/might be affected (steering, mpg, wind noise...)?



I am really just looking to level it at this point, keep the tire size stock, no big off-roading, but not stickily on road. No major towing or hauling, just normally homeowner stuff. Based on past experience and research on the forum, I am looking for something better than spacer and block lifts (no offense to anyone that hast them and loves them). Cost is not a concern at this point.

 

Have you read this? >>https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

this

 

I remembered that post right after i made this one. It does answer parts of my questions. It seems that unlike my other vehicle there is not really any great all in one kits out there, and that the best way is to build your own. From what I can gather at right now:

Level/Lift would be 1"-2.5"
Bilstein 5100 with factory springs (notch setting based on chart)
Leveled Swaybar endpoint links from Suspension Maxx
alignment about 50-100 miles of driving

maybe:
new upper control arms
rear ATS HD leaf pack
side steps

Trying to understand if there are other parts that need to be concerned about stressing and just replace/upgrade? and what else am i missing?

 

Well, if you don't know the state of your lower balljoints, or if they're OEM, and you're over 150k miles, you should think about that, but only use OEM LBJ and OEM bolts.

Look, if you want OEM-like ride, you only want to level, i.e. ballpark 1" lift up front (anything above 2" is pretty substantial lift) and be thoughtful about your strut/spring choice. At that point, you could probably stick with OEM swaybar links, you don't need UCA, and you won't need to change UCA, you won't need rear leafs, you won't be over-stressing anything. You don't start slinging grease on your CVs and stressing stuff until you hit that 1.5"+ range, I think 1.5" is where we've usually seen people start bitching about grease slinging.

If you truly want to keep your OEM ride and get a little pick-me-up in front to level with a 2WD AC, just get Bilstein 4600s with OME 2883 springs and call it a day. As long as you're not looking to oversize your tires more than 1", you should be golden. i.e. if you're running 265/65r17 now, keep it at 265/70r17 or smaller and you should be fine unless you pick a really f'n aggressive tire.

 

I have to go through a mountain of paperwork to verify if the LBJ were replaced more than once, but they most they have is 82k on them. All service has been done by the dealer it's whole life.

Thanks for the info, that i only need 1" of lift, and should not need to do much to level it out! This is the type of advice I was hoping to get!

Tire wise I am planning to stick with an AT tire, so nothing too agressive or making too much road noise.

 

If you want to know for sure, do yourself a favor. Measure from the center of your hub to the fender flare on all four corners. Most people seem to be on average 1.5”-1.75” depending on suspension age. My truck is low mile, I was a little closer to 2” rake back to front but I’m an oddball case.

These trucks seem to have a weird fender cut and if you get them 100% level measured from center to fender edge on all four corners, they look like they’re squatting IMO, so I wouldn’t aim for perfectly level. 1/2” rake toward the front will still give the appearance of being level. Given you’re access cab (lighter body type) and 2WD (lighter front end due to lack of extra drivetrain stuff) you’ll get more lift out of those 2883 springs than everyone else except a V6/2WD. I suspect if you go 2884, you’ll either be totally level and look to be squatting out back, or actually be squatting out back and need to lift the rear. The only good no-block leaf-based solution available if you did go 2884 springs would be the Icon AAL kit which will remove your overload spring and their extra 3 leaves will add 3/4” lift out back to help offset the added 1/2” or so of front lift you’ll gain enough to offset added height.

4600s are touted as “closest you can get to OEM with TRD pkg”. If you’re using a lifted spring anyway, there’s no point in going with the 5100s, because you can’t even utilize the circlip system in a meaningful way without side effects, even with a less-tall spring, as we recently found out from another member who did this with the 5100/2883 combo.

 

PS - you should still check your CV joints for grease sling if you go with the lesser 2883 springs. It’s the one thing to keep eyes out for after lifting. But generally speaking, you’ll have the least negative consequence and least buy-in while getting level and maintaining ride quality going that route. Can’t hurt to throw a pair of 4600s out back. Even if you buy them preassembled you should be able to acquire full 4600 with those springs under $750, or buy yourself and assemble probably under $500, certainly under $600.

 

After my recent experience using the second notch/perch of the Bilstein 5100's, I would be very, very cautious of using anything but the bottom perch unless you've seen multiple examples of where that coil spring/lift combination worked flawlessly

since you're gonna be buying new coil springs, anyway I would just get the ones that give you the right height from the bottom perch

i'm about to replace my coil and move it back down to the bottom

 

I do not want to create a squat, so I will do some measurements (I am guessing it will be here this week or next). I am not aware of the stuts being replaced, so i am guessing that they are orginal, and have age plus midwest temperature swings fighting them for the last 22 years. I am planning on adding about 100-200 lbs of weight to the bed via spray i liner and bed cover too. I have to check, but the tires may be coming due, so i might put 4600s on all 4 wheels and new front springs, a little before i get the tires replaced (so an off alignment won't damage the new tires.

I will check the CV joints when it gets here, and keep an eye on them after the level.

 

Just be sure you're aware of the info in that thread above - specifically, confirm the truck actually stayed in the midwest its whole life, and not an area of the midwest that gets salt on the roads. Don't blindly accept the frame has no rust, or hasn't been covered up, hasn't been treated. We've seen allllll kinds of shit on this forum. All it takes is one winter of salt road activity to setoff an avalanche of decay.

 

Fortunately, I know where it has been since the day it was picked up from the dealership. We do get some road treatment in the winter, but it did not get driven much on those days due to it being 4x2. I also know it got an undercoating right away, so that should help. I do however plan on crawling underneath just to check the current state of everything.

 

A big part of the problem is the frames rusting from the inside out. Undercoating in the classic sense (i.e. spraying a sealant on the outside of the frame) could actually make the problem worse if it's a true rubberized/epoxy style coating vs. oil/wax base.

Someone posted pics in the past of a frame that looked awesome from the ouside, but was clearly eating itself inside out when you stick a camera lense into some of the access holes. Not to spook you. Just the nature of the beast.

 

I just looked at the window sticker, and it came with 265/70R16. Checking tire sizing comparison, do you think I could get away with 265/75R16 given that it is a 16" wheel?

 

That would be a very similar upgrade from the stock 265/65r17 in 17" wheels going up to 265/70r17. You're gaining an inch in diameter. May be able to align out any rub without a strut spacer or proper lift.

Worst case scenario, run it. If it rubs, try aligning it out, or throw on a small strut spacer until you can lift a little. I think you can probably get away with running it. But it's your money, not mine, so don't hold me to it. We've had other guys make a 1" jump with (supposedly) no rub.

​

 

I’ve put this up a bunch. I went with 5100s on the second notch with stock 158k miles springs. They ride great on the freeway maybe a little stiffer with big potholes which we have a lot of in St. Louis but the roads suck here anyway. I’m running 265/70r17s and no rub or anything and got about 1” of lift.

if I had to do it over I’d probably go 5100s bottom notch with 2883’s or 4600’s I still have enough take to look good and not be too high. A little bit of lift on these trucks makes a huuuge difference btw.

 

Looks good! Like what I am looking for.

Do you know what your overall height clearance is for pulling into parking garages?

 

not sure I haven’t had to go into any but it’s not super high. Just for the stock 1GT height an inch or two makes a big difference. It’s not a monster truck but I don’t want it any higher

 

His results will be significantly different. DC suspension results will be different from AC, you're just talking about a different bag of chips here. Won't be as radical a difference as it would if he was 4WD and you were 2WD but ... something to think thru.

tl;dr - If you have an AC, don't model your suspension after a DC, you won't get the same results.

 

If you do get grease sling consider this.

 

So with 4600s all around and 2883 springs in the front....I could expect about a 1" lift in the front, and that could allow me to run tires that are 1" taller with little to no issues?