Resolution: adjust caster after repl 2883's - pulling right over washboard bumps

If im understanding correctly you have the arb 883 on second perch? So notoriously stiff 5100 , on a stiifer than stock ( but same height arb 883) . So you acheived more lift by compressing the 883? Just so I understand.

#1 complaint i hear about 5100 are they are rough when fresh. Kinda opposite kyb ride.

 

If you put it that way. But that's the first I've heard of this.

I didn't have experience with any of this so I asked around on this forum and 5100's with EMU 2883-4 seemed to be the first option most often suggested. My criteria was for a little more firm over stock with 1" lift and 2 inches if I had to, but I wouldn't know until I put on the tires and wheels. It turns out about 2 inches is perfect for my set up

I've had my 883s for about eight months and I liked the ride with no complaints until I put it on the second perch a couple of weeks ago.

what would you suggest when I replace the 883'a which I will probably do within the next 8 weeks before a big trip I have in late July. I do not want to change upper control arms at this time. LT was just mentioned which was new to me, but I read up on it and that sounds appropriate but not necessarily mandatory. Again, this is all new to me and I'm relying on others to recommend

My 2WD is 95%+ street with some occasional dirt roads. Being 2WD and with my typical driving it does not need to be set up for off-road

I just got slightly under 2 inches of lift from stock with my recent set up change and would like to stay close to that. Preferably no more than 2-1/4" over stock and no less than 1-3/4"

 

Ok cool. Just wanted i has it straight. I would think next would be 884 and go back to bottom, i got tje 1.75" lift dobinson springs which i bet would not go over your 2.25" max.

But, please dont take my advice. I think josh from 1st gen offroad combined 5100 and the c30 dobinsons and acheived two " of lift on RWD. You might want to watch the end of that video again just to be sure of results. My best thinking is you go back to bottom circlip and try out 884 or dobinson. Eithet way, as shifty mentioned when lifting stock travel set up, you will most likely pay in ridr department over the small stuff.

Kinda out of options with factory suspensiom parameters snd leafs out back.

Have you tried playing w air pressure and bump stops at all? Sick truck by the way. I imagine the 2wd are couple hundred pounds lighter.

 

I have not played with air pressure and bump stops

i'll talk to Josh 1stgen again

it looked like me I would be more in the 2886/2887 range but again I'm pretty ignorant of all that

 

Im trying to acheive the same as you ( i think) basicslly level front end , then raise rear when leafs start to sag.

If I remember correctly. 2885 would give too much for might set up (3+") but i have a rclb 4x4 V8.

Thats why I want to find people who have weighed their trucks, too help community out when picking springs.

My sticker states mine is 6,200 LBS. What does your door sticker state. I think its close to that but I suspect it might be lighter.

 

This is how mine sits stock, im on a slight grade leaning toward drivers side, but you get idea. , about a 2" rake with 120lbs slides and 350lbs box in back.

,( i also have some cool maf /mpg/O2 sensor info showing how load effects MPG. I know off topic, but see pics of same commute mpg with just above as payload vs addition 400lbs roll of thin alumin um.

 

The lighter tundras get decent mileage. Yours can prob do low 20's highway too. Sea level, 80*, 32", 90% 65-70mph cruising.

Stop and go. Im getting 14.6mpg. I think you should try dobinsons bc they are extended , just like your 5100's

 

i'm really looking to maintain an inch and a half to 2 inches of rake

I temporarily have a 1 inch block in the back. But I will change that with new leaf springs later this year or early next.

 

Some good coilovers outta do the trick honestly. Full control of ride height and it is designed to allow the shock to cycle fully.

Basically a "mid-travel" set up as opposed to a long travel

 

IIRC, you're looking at 1/2" - 3/4" per step-up with the OME springs. i.e. 2883->2884 will increase lift 1/2" - 3/4". 2884->2885 will increase lift 1/2" - 3/4". Next logical step is 2887, add another 1/2" - 3/4". You'd skip the 2886, harsher rate unless you needed it.

This is purely from memory, so check your numbers against the "measure-up" sticky, look at others who ran 5100 + 2885 with DC like @FishNinja. I think you'll find almost everyone DC is getting roughly same results he is.

When you initially stepped into this, I was of the impression you only wanted ~1" lift 2883 was the correct pick. I'm actually surprised to hear you're seeing harsher ride going up a notch, even with with the lifted spring. IIRC on the breakout, I think there's a ~1cm spring height difference (+/- half cm) between each step, which is accounting for that 1/2" - 3/4" lift per jump up, I think? Anyway, given the 2885 is 1.5cm higher, I would only imagine the ride should be similar given the spring rate. But will be curious to hear feedback.

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i'll read up on it more when I have time. I'm presently trying to get my leather power seats from a Sequoia into my truck and finding the wiring, while it does plug up, does not get power to the motors apparently. We tested them at the junkyard and they work fine, but nothing in my truck. It looks like the seats have one more prong or wire than is coming from my wiring harness. 06 Sequoia to an 06 tundra - I read where a member said his were plug-in play, but he does not appear active any longer. I think his might've been 07 Sequoia seats to 06 tundra but still would have thought they were the same. Probably about due to blow another couple of fuses anyway. Edit: I guess I should've read more threads. Apparently the power seats with the memory settings have more wires


Yes, I did want 1 inch lift because I was trying to keep the lift to a minimum but I knew I might end up needing 2 inches. That was when we talked about the bilstein's that allowed raising it one notch if I needed it. Or at least that's what I spoke with Josh about

The guy that had successfully put 305's on his truck had a leveling kit which I believe is 2 1/2 inches. However, his tires were taller so I was hoping I could get away with 1 inch of lift. And that's also why I only put a one inch block in the rear (instead of new leaf springs) temporarily until I knew 100% how high I needed to raise the front. And I could have gotten away with 1 inch but I really felt like it need another inch to look aesthetically pleasing (for me) and it was slightly rubbing on plastic and I just decided if it was that close just lift it another inch and I'm glad I did.

I had to drive a couple of hours on the interstate today. It's not a bad ride. It's just when you get those little quick washboard bumps That caught me off guard after I lifted it. I might give it a little more time and wait until next year since I've got so many different projects going on with it

 

Do you know about the wiring thread? I can dig up if you need it. It'll explain the pinout and offer up adapters you'll need IIRC.

 

Thanks once again, but I believe that was the thread I read where I found out too late there were different models of power seats and you linked the diagrams.

 

I had the OME 2884/5100 front setup and I remember there being lots of "attention" stickers, specifically stating to not move the clip up past the lowest settings because the springs already provide lift...

My other thought on the bump steering/floating, was going to be outer TRE, but you've already replaced those. How about sway bar stuff? Are the sway bar links ok? The bushings that attach to the frame, in decent shape? Hell, do you even have a sway bar connected?

How wide are those Mickey's (btw I love those wheels!)? Wider and grabbier tires are going to try and follow even the smallest of ruts in the road.

 

Since this started immediately after putting the 2883's on the second from the bottom perch I'm confident it is the springs

I'm just going to get taller/different springs. Trying to keep it between 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 max lift from stock. Presently sitting at about 1-4/5" with the back lifted 1". Will increase the rear lift slightly and get rid of the 1" block next year with new leaf springs.

I've got new Suspension Maxx extended sway bar links. Bushings appear to be in good shape. I don't recall if they have been replaced in the past.


thanks about the wheels. They are 305s. It took almost 2 inches of lift in the front, bending the pinch-welds and pinning the plastic to match the pinch weld mod, and assassin10000's recommended alignment to have zero scrub or rub even at full lock

 

Hey bud if you want to offload those 2883’s I am interested. Please pm me if you take them off. I have 5100’s at the second clip with stock sagged out springs and only need 1” of lift to clear my 265’s and would like to go back to the first clip.

 

That sounds perfect for both of us. I'm trying to get ready for a trip at the end of the third week of July so I hope to get it done before then.

 

I know this is a simple minded question what air pressure you running and what kind of tire. Do you have air bags

 

I should know the air pressure, but I've only had the tires for about 3 months and a good bit of that time I've been working on it. They are Toyo A/T 3's. But it was fine before moving the coil springs up a notch

those are good questions though. But I do not understand the airbag question.

it would probably help to lower the air pressure however, if it's that close to where a few less pounds of pressure eases the issue, I would rather change the springs.

 

Bags to tow, in the rear. Firestone (and likely others) sell a kit. Will really stiffen up the ass-end and can contribute to hop with solid axle vehicles.

 

Thanks

That was the only thing I could think of. But this is definitely coming from the front wheels. You can feel it in the steering wheel

I'm just gonna replace the coils now to resolve or improve the issue and I will do the rear leaf springs next year probably with the ones you recommended

 

It's interesting, we had at least one member in here that's run 5100s w/a taller OME spring on 2nd notch. I was surprised when they said it was fine. But it would've been one of the stiffer ones than yours, so maybe it was trading stiff for stiff, and went unnoticed.

 

this was enough that it startled me each time it happened and the first time was going down the interstate at a good pace. I'm going to go with something more proven

i'm sure my wider tires with lower profile from stock exaggerate the issue but it was simply not there before I raised it another inch

 

Nice! I knew those were some big bastards.

 

I ordered the Dobinson coil springs from Josh at 1stGen today and will go back to bottom perch

He felt like that yes, it is stiffer now, but that sudden pull to the right over a washboard rough spot on the road is likely due to the difference in caster on one side vs the other.

anyway, I went with Dobinson because the 2884 old man EMU's might've raised me up too much and the Dobson's are ever so slightly softer

spoke with alignment shop they will give me a free alignment after I put in the new springs. And they said they will get the caster right on both sides this time.

 

Pretty sure @Tundra2 is running the dobbies. But he's RCLB, so dunno how that'll compare to yours. Curious to see. I want to say Josh has the dobbies on one of the two DCs he has, so he's definitely the guy to talk to about how high they'll take you. (Believe that's what he said in one of his videos at least)

 

Me too. Josh seems to be very aware of the differences in the models and is always very thoughtful and I think he was pretty spot on about the 2883

and I think he was probably right. It would've been rough going over those short construction patches, but it shouldn't have pulled to the right so hard. And that's what really bothered me. He thought that was the alignment which reminded me of the difference in the caster from side to side.

makes sense anyway. Alignment shop will give me a free alignment and said they will get the caster even this time.

but I'm still not gonna take a chance I'm gonna use the Dobinson so I can go back to the bottom perch

 

I should have the Dobinson's on in about 3 weeks if you're seriously interested in the 2883's. I put them on last October And they probably have less than 6000 miles because it was in the shop for paint almost 3 full months and then all of the other work I was doing on it

Just message me I'll be more than fair

I didn't see any pictures on your profile. Are you the one that had the green tundra that I liked so much?

 

yea buddy that’s me! How’d the paint come out on your truck?

 

I was very pleased with the paint and finish
Not so pleased with the process and how long it took, and not pleased He took the hood off for over a month and all kind of leaves got inside the engine bay lol

But he's a good ol boy and he did quite a few things above and beyond what he was paid to do, including putting on new weatherstrips on the roof top which sell for over $200

So now it is over everything is fine ha ha. Wish I would've got him to go ahead and paint my front bumper didn't realize how badly it was pitted

You should put a picture of your truck on your profile. I fell in love with that green color as soon as I saw yours with the black wheels