Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Service writer not catching that it's a 2WD. The info comes up based on mileage and Toyota service recommendations. It possible the service writer entered the wrong VIN. The service writer job is a tough one. Low pay, dealing with cranky customers and a service manager always pushing to sell. At the dealership I worked at they usually lasted less than a year.

 

I'm from Colorado Springs. I might need your mechanic one of these days. If he's not averse to sharing his business number, I'd like to have it.

 

How do you put the 2022 Tundra into brake service mode to replace the rear brake pads? Thank you.

 

Hello, I just purchased a 2013 Tundra 5.7L pickup. 97,000 mi. I want to get the transmission and rear differential fluids done right away. Should I not be cheap and go to a dealership for the service? I read something on this forum about needing a scan tool for this job. Was wondering what I can expect to pay. Also, are the 2013's prone to SAIS failure like my 2006 Tundra was?

 

If your mechanically incline then it is possible to do the trans and rear diff service. The rear diff is just a drain and refill. Make sure you can open the fill plug before you drain the diff. For the transmission you need to monitor the transmission pan temperature to know when to reinstall the level check plug. You can use the Fussion app with a dongle if you don't have a copy of Techstream. Here is a good video on the procedure.

https://youtu.be/eRxSu4-4ojo?si=cJXBIzxM1zrLlLed


For the secondary air injection, listen when you shut off the truck, do you hear a secondary air injection blower run for a couple of seconds? The updated secondary air injection will run the blowers for a couple of seconds after shutdown to remove water and prevent blower seizer.

 

I recently had a drain and fill done at the dealership. (148K) I don't think it had ever been done. It was shifting bad afterwards so I took it back and left it overnight. It would shift better after it warmed up but still did not feel right.

The dealership calls and said the fluid was a smidge low and they also did a relearn on the transmission. It shifts much better than the first time at the dealership but still seems "off" until the transmission warms completely up. It shifts good after it heats up.

Does anyone know what could cause this? Is it possible that the fluid is still low.

Thanks

 

Give it some time. When the relearn is done it takes time for the transmission to "relearn" and will shift oddly.

 

Any idea on the time? It's been a couple of weeks. This morning I let it warm up for several minutes prior to driving and it shifted really good.

Thanks for taking the time to reply!

 

It has been several weeks but I do not drive it everyday as I have a company truck...

 

Sounds like it's fine then. I've never tracked an actual distance but no more than 50 miles.

If you really feel that it's still not quite right go back to the dealer and have them recheck the level. They can't do it immediately, the transmission has to cool down. Just curious, when the dealership rechecked the level did they do it on a cold transmission?

 

I hope they did. I left it overnight. I have driven several hundred miles since it was done. It seems to be smoother today than it has been. It is also hotter today...

 

If they requested that you leave it overnight then they did the check on a cold transmission. I think your fine.

 

How do remove the plastic filter inside the fill port of the master cylinder of a 21? I did notice a slot in the master cylinder neck that allows you to put a 1/4 flat blade screwdriver in between the reservoir body and the screen but that screen doesn't flex much.
Wanting to suck out all the old brake fluid before I bleed clean fluid through the system.

 

I use a small blunt hook tool.

 

And pull one side straight up?

 

I have to replace my broken sequential shifter and was wondering how difficult it is and roughly how long it takes? PN 33503

 

I have scoured many forums and sites looking for a possible answer to my dilemma on my 2008 tundra with a 5.7 liter. About 2 months ago my truck started with a start then shit off issue. Changed the fuel pump relay since it acted like it was cutting out. Worked fine for about 2 weeks then started doing it again. Did some research and found that the fuel pump control module may be the cause. Bought one and that didn't cure it. Now the truck will start and run about 2 to 3 seconds then shut off. Do this sometimes 3 times then run fine, sometimes it'll do it 15 times before it runs right. Talked with my local dealership and they pointed me to the A and B pillar wiring harnesses for water intrusion. Checked all.plugs and had a couple that had a small amount of corrosion. Cleaned them and got a little better for about a week, now it's back to being a pain again. Only codes I get are a b2799 for communications. Question is, if I change out the immobilizer ecu, do I ha e to have it programmed at the dealership or is there a way to do it myself?

 

Sorry but I've never had to do one. I'm wondering how you broke it?

 

The immobilizer would have to be programed at the dealership. Since it sounds like a security issue did you try using a different key? Do you have other Toyota keys on your key chain?

 

Work it around the edge and pull a little on each side untill it releases.

 

Three different keys, no change with any of them. Don't have any issues with the transponder antenna to the immobilizer. While using the scan tool to try and help diagnose. Only thing that changes is I get a fuel cut condition after ignition.

 

When you run a health check with techstream what are the codes?

 

Only code I get is a b2799 which is immobilizer communications error.

 

Can you connect to the immobilizer and read data?

 

No codes on the immobilizer ecu. Just on the ECM. Everything on live data from the immobilizer is good.

 

Check the wiring diagram for your immobilizer and check all the wiring to verify all the connections. Modules are very reliable so do a wiring check before replacing.

 

Now you have me wondering. If this crappy weather continues I'll connect to my own truck and check.

 

I've checked the wiring itself and everything in the pillars looks good and has tight connections. I didnfind a TSB about it to check the resistance of the wiring. I still need to do that as I have to tear the dash apart to get to the connector on the immobilizer ecu.

 

Using the wiring diagram check every wire at the immobilizer connector for high resistance. You can use a light bulb to test. Youtube how to use a bulb to check for high resistance. Are your values the same as the one in this picture?



After the checks if you confident that it need an immobilizer then unfortunately it will have to go to the dealership to have the keys registered.

 

I will get on to it this afternoon and pull the data for it to show you.