SUCCESS: 06 Sequoia power non-heated leather seats in 2006 Tundra DC with manual seats

EDIT: unless you're needing the links to the electronic wiring diagrams (EWD's) then just skip forward to post 13 where I discovered that the heavier gauge power and ground wires were all that was missing on the Tundra side


Orig:


Picked up some leather seats in decent condition from a junkyard today. Just recently found out there is a junkyard about an hour away that only deals in Toyota trucks and SUVs. How did I not know?

We tested the power seats before they were removed from the Sequoia. They are not heated and I don't believe they had the seat memory buttons, but I totally forgot to look
Once home, I plugged up the new seat to the two connectors, but no power. The seatbelt and airbag sensors worked and the Tundra seatbelt connected to the receiver on the Sequoia seat perfectly.

Before I dig too deep into wiring diagrams that are totally Greek to me I took a look at the wiring under the manual and power seats

there are only two connectors for my truck - I hope it's safe to assume one is for the seatbelt and one is the pressure sensor for the airbag. The sequoia seat has an additional yellow connector that is for the side airbag which is not used in my truck

One of the connectors is a larger white one that has two wires. Same on both seats.

The other connector can have up to six pins/wires. On my manual tundra in the old seat it has four wires on that connector. Not quite sure why it needs four wires. The power seat on the Sequoia has all six in use

Is it possible that the only thing missing is a power and a ground, which is the two extra wires in the sequoia seat connector?

it appears those wires are all fed to a controller in the middle of the seat which then goes to each of the power seat control switches, motors, etc. So I could certainly see how all the motors could possibly share the same power wire from the fusebox, power, and ground wires


TL;DR? The seatbelt sensor and airbag pressure sensor work fine. But no reaction from any of the motors. There are only two additional wires on the Sequoia power seat.

Could those 2 extra wires be the power and ground for all of the motors?

 

Guy at the junkyard said there's no such thing. Said I would have to replace the entire truck wiring harness

 

IIRC, that's bullshit. I'm pretty sure the seat harness tees off under the center dash, or at the center console.

You need to get the EWD for the year of truck the seats came out of to look up the pinout, you're looking for a 6-pin connector with V (for Violet? or L for Lilac? I forget), Orange w/red stripe, green w/white stripe, and red?

Then get the EWD for your '06 Tundra and look at the pinout for its power seat. Then cross-reference the two for wires/positions.

You may also just be able to figure out what the inputs are for the '06 Sequoia EWD, and replicate the needs.

Thinking back to this reply: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-power-seat-conversion.136324/#post-3463493

What did you already have for wiring in your truck? Got pics? Let's put some more eyes on it and see if we can figure it out.

 

thanks shifty. that's what I thought as well. Total bullshit.

I'm about to have to get ready to go to a funeral so I will as soon as I can. And I will get some from the Sequoia donor as well


However, I was wrong last night. Last night, I was looking at the passenger seat since it was easier and the connectors from the drivers side. when I looked back at the driver seat, it was different from the passenger seat. So the same wires/connectors are used on the Sequoia power driver seat as are used in the wiring harness coming from my Tundra. That's good and bad since I have no idea if you could add wires to an existing connector, however seems odd that the wires would have different purposes on these siblings. Maybe the Tundra hot wires are not connected at the fuse box?

so the same number of wires and pin placements from the truck as are in the connectors, etc to the new seat


I'm gonna have to go back up the junkyard and get the serial number for the donor Sequoia in case I ever need parts for the seat because Toyota could not even help me for parts without knowing the S/N in order to know which of the handful of versions it is

that'll give me a chance to look and take pics of the wiring harness on that Sequoia

 

If you can get the other end of the harness that plugs into that seat, it may be advantageous. Maybe you can re-pin your OEM.

I'm also curious if the Seqoia uses a separate harness for the SRS stuff? Airbag harnesses are usually yellow ?!

I thought adding fogs and adding power seats required adding a relay up under the hood, but maybe that's only the fogs. Memory is fuzzy. I know one member used an eBay relay for heater stuff, and their seats were staying hot all the time. Bad relay, cheap crap. But really, I would only expect the power seat to have a shared ground, a wire for forward/backward, and a wire for up/down, and maybe one for tilt?

 

Yes, the airbag in the Sequoia has a separate yellow wiring harness. So I dont have to touch that

 

This is from my 2018 which has 3 connectors. I know not a FGT but maybe connecters are similar and carryover.

 

The junkyard owner doubled down that there is not a separate wiring harness and would not let it go

that did give me a chance to check and these seats do not appear to have the memory function and they don't have heat. It has a side airbag but my truck does not so the yellow plug is irrelevant. Both the airbag and the seatbelt sensor worked just fine when moved to my truck as currently wired


From the donor Sequoia SUV, wiring to the seat

2006 Sequoia SR5
5TDZT34A06S270600


Driver side:

Plug 1



Plug 2




Passenger side:

Plug 1





Plug 2

 

Donor Sequoia seats

Driver seat - 3 controls:

7 total wires (excluding yellow airbag harness)



Plug 1



Plug 2



Passenger seat - 2 controls (no lumbar)

8 total wires (excluding yellow side airbag harness)



Plug 1


Plug 2

 

This is from the driver seat plug one. These two wires appear to be much heavier gauge so I'm pretty sure they are power wires.

Since I believe everything on the driver side works except power to the motor then I believe that's all I have to find



and this is the same 2 heavier gauge wires being fed to the seat

 

Not sure I necessarily need the wiring diagram

All that is missing is a power and the ground to the motors in the seat





So I guess the question becomes do I just do a bypass with a 30 amp fuse to the battery and test those two wires?

Then, if that is the solution, do I just cut those two wires from the harness and get a separate harness connector just for the power and ground?
That would be a last resort for me

I don't see how you could add those two wires to the existing connector from my truck

 

Since the motor AND the control Switches are within the seat, I'm thinking there is one ground and one 30a power wire per seat

I don't believe there is a different wire for up/down, backward/forward etc. They just change the polarity within the switch/ECU to make the motor go backwards or forwards

 

Same thing on the passenger seat. The white w/black wire and the light blue/orange wire are the heavier gauge wires

so that means for both driver and passenger seats:

Power: light blue/orange
Ground: white w/black

 

Testing confirms! The two heavier gauge wires in the donor seats are for the power and ground.

Light blue with orange is Power
White with black is ground

I just ran a power bypass wire with a 30 amp in-line fuse to the battery and clipped it to the suspected power wire in the seats
And ran a ground to the suspected ground wire in the seats


All motors on the seats worked


So I know a relatively easy solution would just be to run the same 2 bypass wires and hide them and cut those two wires from the harness. Then use a couple of connectors to connect the seat to the truck side

I would much prefer to use something like a fuse tap so it could be connected to the fuse designated for the power seats in the dash fuse box. I'm guessing there is no such thing as a 30 amp fuse tap.

and I know I could just find a screw and ground it, but wouldn't it be better to run it back to the dash to one of the designated grounds?




I've never done anything like this, so suggestions are much much appreciated

 

Are there any empty slots that may be wired on the in-dash fuseblock? I need to read back over this and see where you are when I have more time to wrap my head around it. Summer, kids out of school, been spending a shedload of time with them.

 

Yes - a 30 amp fuse that is marked as power seats in the fuse box under the dash


Just read #14 & 15 and ignore the rest

I found the power and the grounds. One ground and one power per side. Everything else SEEMS to be operating correctly

The power wires on the seat side are not used on the old harness. So it doesn't have the metal pin(?) inside on the truck side connector or else I could just solder a power wire to that connector

The ground pin is used on my truck side, but it is a less heavy gauge black wire. Perhaps it is still some sort of ground wire, but just not from a high amperage Source. So I'm thinking I could just solder a new more appropriately gauged ground wire to that pin




At this point it is really just about connecting the wires to a 30 amp fused power source and a ground in the truck, and then connecting those wires to the seat


If i'm going have to bypass it, I still want it sturdy so it will last, can be disconnected and done neatly




I could do it a simple and ugly way, but I would rather get it as close as possible as designed such as going to the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box that is designated for the power seats, even though it did not come with them from the factory

 

So there is such a thing as an automotive 30 amp fuse tap. Not sure it is the right size for the designated power seat fuse on my truck




And I could get a 30 amp piggytail like this if I can't make it work in the existing connector

 

You can actually buy pinned wire pigtails from a Toyota dealer. You can solder and heat shrink the pigtail into your wire and put the new pin into your connector. YouTube shows how to open the connector and insert the pins.

 

So you're saying take the new one apart and
steal the pins then open the existing and add the pin? And of course solder the wires

Wouldn't it have to be from the same type of connector though? Or do they sell the connectors that match my existing connectors?


This would be ideal

 

They’re individual wires about 6 inches long with the pin attached to the end. They also sell empty connectors if you need one of those.

 

The other way to get what you need is to grab a piece of harness with connectors from any Toyota in a junkyard. You then harvest the pinned wires to finish out your project.

 

Aren't there different types of pins and sizes in many of the connectors?

i'll be one of these two suggestions or both if needed tomorrow



This will come in handy in future projects

 

There are a couple, but they go with wire size. Power and ground should be the same, and they’re pretty standard sizes. If you get a pigtail harness at a junkyard, get one with wires your size and the pins and sockets should be your size also. You’ll trial fit them to be sure, of course. Or the pigtails from the dealer will definitely fit.

 

Preferred locations to tap power?

found a ground that is under the carpet under the driver seat.

I've taken the console out and I can see that the wiring conduit for the seats goes under there, but I can't tell where it comes out

i'm just gonna run it near the door jam along with other conduit for a lot of other wires. Connect the ground under the seat

i've got a 30a fuse tap arriving today that I'm hoping will work to use the existing power seat block in the fuse box but I'm not extremely hopeful



so I'm looking for an alternative power source. One that is not switched. If I had heated seats, obviously you want that switched with ignition. But power seats you won't be able to control whether ignition is on or not

If the fuse tab doesn't work I can run the power through the firewall where the hood latch and other wires go. To one of the fuse/relay boxes in the battery




This was the power source I'm looking at. Since it has the horn and door fuses it should be a constant power source. I can disconnect the battery Remove the nut and add an extra power wire.

any better sources?



Got the appropriate connectors, conduit, shrink tubing and my solder gun to try to do it right

 

Success

All wiring and harnesses/plugs worked just fine. Only thing missing was a non-switched power and ground to the seats. Didn't need switched power since it did not have heated seats.

Pretty dang good shape The most worn part is the armrest of both seats. Also has leather steering wheel from another Sequoia.

Excuse the nasty carpet. Has anyone ever dyed their carpet? The exposed parts are in good shape, but badly discolored. You can't tell it from these pictures but the original color of the carpet is almost identical to the seats




I think I will give this a try:

 

Looks good. Looks like they sit high to me, but maybe it's just because I never look at my seats from that angle much.

Leather dyes (interior paints in general) can be a PITA to work with. IIRC, for our "leather" seats, only the center panel and bolster is leather, the sides and back are vinyl.

 

Thanks! I'm very very pleased

Passenger seat does not move higher or lower
I can't tell if it's higher or if the seat base doesn't go as low to the Floorboard

Driver's seat will adjust lower than my manual seeds and higher as well. And obviously will tilt forward or backwards

 

I was speaking of dying the nasty carpet. It's been cleaned as thoroughly as possible.

you would never know it, but my carpet actually matches the new seats. You have to see it when the seats are out where the carpet is not stained

my interior is listed as taupe, but it's got everything from light gray to 3 or 4 shades of taupe to almost tan depending on which piece of the interior and trim you look at

 

Best way to clean carpets is tedious, but do-able. You gotta pull them, flip upside down over (ideally) expanded metal rack resting on sawhorses. Find a way to vibrate the bottom side, any vibrating sander that has a rubber base works superb (leave off the sandpaper). Run it across the bottom side, and every last piece of sand and dirt will fall out, see video below for sample.

With all sand out ... flip over. Spray with a strong solution of Simple Green concentrate, then brush in with a deck brush, then pressure wash the Simple Green out with 30°-45° tip. Let it dry in the sun. You can get carpet to nearly-new appearances like this.

As for the vibration... I've seen some shops that have an attachment liks this on their vacuum, and they'll use that to get the sand out of the carpet before washing to avoid seating the dirt deeper. Jump to 2:57

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhyDkJEjPFU#t=2m57s​

 

Actually, it looks like ChrisFix has a good example. If the carpet is upside down over expanded metal, you don't need to bother with vacuum. That's how I've done it in the past. You should've seen what I did with the carpet in my last truck! I'll see if I can dig up pics. Wonder what this tool is?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OiGWlO4mQI​