Good sub box for 2 10 inch subs behind bench seat

pshhh cheaper than the sound systems y'all recommending

 

That amp is way overkill for those subs. Like, in a not-good way.

I think you'll gt more bang for your buck out of a properly-tuned, ported enclosure. I don't think that enclosure will work if the floor isn't flat across the back of the cab (is it?)

 

I feel like it's all about these dudes wagging their dicks at each other. "Bruh, mine's 3000 watts, watchu got?"

 

Someone else said they had that amp running at 1000 watts, I'd rather have smth overkill running below max I don't want to overheat it
There's a trans hump but would I not be able to put a flat board above it and just bring the floor up to the trans hump height behind the seat?

 

I mean, I was that way too once. I humbled up quick when one of my buddy's friends with a single Punch 10 and Punch 250w amp stomped me. I was running two Cerwin Vega 15s pushed by a PPI 1000w amp.

Wattage doesn't mean shit. Size of your speakers doesn't mean shit. If you don't pair your components wisely, and you don't respect the manufacturer's suggested airspace (etc.) requirements for your subs, best case, it may sound like shit, worst case, you're gonna blow something.

That was actually motivation for me to learn, and led to me working at the shop.

 

Sounds overly difficult when there's potentially better options available.

Here's the other thing you need to consider. That Rockford enclosure is specifically pre-designed to perform optimally with the sub it has installed. You know it's gonna sound good, and you don't need to pick the correct sub, you just need to provide a clean power source, and clean signal. That generic ass box is designed to support ????!??!? subwoofer. i.e. who the fuck knows what it may work with. You could throw 10 different subs at it, and it may only sound good with one or two of them.

You just need to measure the flat space between the trans hump and the side walls of the truck to make sure one (or two) of those boxes will fit flat on the floor between them.

It's your money, your truck. You do you. @KNABORES provided you with some kickass advice. It's turnkey. Hardest part will be handling the install.

 

Yeah I think I'm gonna have to take that advice, just checking options because I've heard that ported is better. I will most likely just buy 2 of those 12s with the box they come in.
To run 2 500 watt subs would I need an amp with 1000 watt rms? I don't wanna overheat anything or blow anything

From the edge of the tranny hump to where the seatbelt is is 2ft, but to the edge of the cab it's about 26.5 inches
2 of those boxes wouldn't fit, 1 won't even fit on either side of the tranny hump, but from 1 end of the cab to the other it's 5 ft, so I would need to put a raised floor in to fit those, I have no problem with that but would it impact the sound?

 

"Ported is better" is a generic statement. Honestly, it 1,000% absolutely depends on the subwoofer.

Some subs are only appropriate to use in a "free air" baffle board type setup with excess air volume on the back side. Some are intended for sealed enclosures. Some are intended for ported enclosures. Regardless which you have, you always want to see what the manufacturer recommends. And while you can hope the box you buy is port-tuned appropriate for your subwoofer, it's not a guarantee. But honestly, while I designed and build a bunch of boxes in my life, I never fully understood tuning, just got to hear the difference. A lot of box design software would figure all that crap out for you, even back in the 90s, so all you needed was speaker specs, dimensions, and you could have it knock out the rest.

But this is the benefit to buying pre-built enclosures like those RF enclosures KNABORES tossed out, or the Stealthbox JL makes (which would eat your budget if they made one for your truck).

RE: Amp and subs. The "tl;dr" idiot-proof way to pick your amp: Choose an amp whose RMS power matches the (total) RMS power of your subs. Sometimes RMS is listed as "nominal" power. Every sub and/or preloaded enclosure should list "RMS power" and "peak power". That

$220 R2S-1X12 Single R2S Slim 12” Shallow Subwoofer Loaded in a Wedge Enclosure with 250 Watts RMS / 500 Watts Max

R2S-1X12 enclosure he recommended shows 100-250w RMS (/nominal) power. So if you're only using one enclosure, you want to find an amp that boasts at least 100w of power RMS and up to 250w of power RMS. If you go with two enclosures you should hunt at least 200w RMS amp, up to 500w RMS.

It's also important to understand the difference between wiring in parallel and series, and how to calculate total load in ohms.

 

Would I wire these in parallel or series, and do both ways of wiring support stereo audio?

 

I went with that 3k amp to have more than I needed. My 1k amp would constantly cut out and made my headlights and dash lights dim. It doesn't do any of that with the 3k amp since it's not pushed to the max. All it takes is setting the gain to put out what voltage you need to get your subs to use the right wattage.

 

So would this amp would run 2 250 watt 12s at 2 ohms each consistently with the gain turned down without overheating?
https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-bass-800-1-channel-800-watts-rms/p

 

Yeah, that'd be a little better. Save you some monies too.

 

Those boxes are 2ohm. If you hook one to an amp it presents a 2ohm load and the amp will output whatever it’s rated at that load. If you wire two of them together in series, it will increase the impedance (4ohm) that the amp sees. The amp will deliver less power overall, and it’s split between two speakers.

If you wire them parallel, it will reduce the impedance (1 ohm) and deliver more power overall.



Two 2 ohm speakers wired in series hooked up to an amp that delivers 500w @ 4ohms would be the target.

 

So 2 of these
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-cBa2QnbLKhg/p_575R2S1X12/Rockford-Fosgate-R2S-1X12.html
Wired in series to this
https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-bass-800-1-channel-800-watts-rms/p
Would be somewhat ideal?

 

That amp is available in “2ohm version” whatever that means. But it’s rated at 800rms at 2ohms. At 4 ohms the power output typically drops by half, so that would theoretically deliver about 200w to each sub.

 

The 2 ohm version says this
Maximum Power
@ 14,4 VDC - 2 Ohm: 800 Watts RMS
@ 14,4 VDC - 4 Ohm: 560 Watts RMS
That's what I was referring

 

If the output is 560 at 4 ohms, that’s perfect. Slightly overpowered by rating, likely pretty close to 250 per sub (you won’t be running 14.4v, closer to 13.4 actually, so the power will be reduced).

 

That sounds pretty good to me, sadly it doesn't seem like this setup would be stupid enough to mess with my buddies but it should sound good right? I want ppl to be able to feel and hear the bass from at least 10 ft away
Also the 1500 dollar budget was kinda just to put a cap on it but I can drop 2-3k if I wanna wait a week for payday

 

That system will sound damn good. No, it won't be felt 10' away, but those sealed boxes give great SQL.

If you want the big boom you're gonna need a bigger truck. Mine makes it hard to see straight. My rear view mirror falls off if I don't push it back up every so often. I rattle the windows in my gfs house from 100 ft away. But, my box is 5.5 cubic ft.

If I was put in your shoes, I'd go with what KNABORES recommended. You gotta learn to walk before you run. It will teach you about amp setup, how to install, what to listen for, all that good shit. Then you can go up from there.

 

Don’t do it just to mess with your buddy. What’s he got anyway? 2-12s in ported boxes with max RMS power on them will sound great. My son runs a pair of JLs in a sealed box we built in his mustang with about 350w a piece on them. It hammers.

 

Those are the 12" version of the subs I have and they are very good subs for the monies. Will bang nice.

 

He's got a single 500 watt 10 in a ported box he js keeps it in his passenger seat but I can feel it every time he drives by

 

That totally depends on the specs of the amp you buy. Whether it's a monoblock or stereo for one (monoblock = 1 channel or 1 positive/negative, stereo = two channels, a left/right positive and negative), and also select based on the power output at X# of ohms for two.

Amps typically advertise their power at 4ohm, 2ohm, 1ohm (if they're "1 ohm stable"), and the power output will often (typically) be higher if the load is higher (i.e. a lower ohm number).

But to that point, not all amps are 1ohm stable, and running at a lower load will generate more heat, and potentially lead to thermal shutdown. Generally speaking, for a newbie or novice, I'd always aim to run an amp with the proper RMS power at the lowest load (i.e. at higher ohms).

For example ... say you have one enclosure and it's wired for 2ohm impedance and RMS power of 500w. Since you won't have a left/right channel, I'd probably seek out a monoblock amp that will output 500w at 2ohm load.

Say you have two enclosures wired for 2ohm impedance and RMS power of 500w (i.e. 1,000w total). You can either get a stereo amp and wire one subwoofer to each channel, left and right at 2 ohms, or get a monoblock amp then wire them in series to create a 4ohm load , else wire them in parallel to create a 1ohm load. For the sake of heat, I'd aim for a 4ohm load in this case, and for those options you would...

• Stereo amp with one 2ohm sub to each channel: Pick a stereo amp that puts out 2x500w RMS at 2ohm
• Monoblock amp with 4ohm load: Pick a monoblock amp that outputs 1x1000w at 4ohm
• Monoblock amp with 1ohm load: Pick a monoblock amp that outputs 1x1000w at 1ohm (Note: Again, not all amps are 1ohm stable, but it's semi-common on monoblock amps, not so common w/stereo or multi-channel amps)

This ^^

I think you'll be shocked by what even one of those enclosures will do with proper power. And 10ft is not that far away, I think it'll be pretty f'ing close to what your buddy is rocking, if not better.

 

Thanks for the advice.
Also the truck is a manual without a tachometer and I'm tired of accidentally banging the limiter in first, would it be possible to add a tachometer?

 

Generic video.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=16O6Bqylrs0&si=fi1J6wwemXHSb74E

 

In his passenger seat, SMH. You will out do your buddy by having a clean, well thought out, loud system that music actually sounds good on. He will want your help with his system. Or, your buddy is a moron. Most of us were at that age.

 

I second this. Clean installs will always win in my book.

 

This is a pretty essential thing if you're planning on adding a bunch of audio as you're not really going to be able to hear your engine anymore. I'd say just a generic tach attached to the steering column would be good or go the route of finding a V6 instrument cluster (they're different than v8 if I recall correctly) with a tach and swapping that in, I believe it's plug and play.

I remember my high-school days doing pretty much the same kind of stuff you're doing, granted I'm only 26 now but still, we'd usually buy some half ass stuff off marketplace or Craigslist and run some undersized speaker wire to stuff and just run it. It all worked, hell I still have my Sony xplode 12s that I got in a box off Craigslist for $45 and they work great to this day with a cheap boss amp. Going for 8 years in 3 different daily drivers.

I'm not necessarily saying going cheap is the way to go but sometimes it doesn't come out too bad, at least not for high school age ears. Have a good time, don't spend too much, and learn as much as you can and you can always improve your stuff as you go.

Curious what radio you are planning to run and what radio is currently in your truck (pics are good) just so you end up with the right radio harness as there are a couple different varieties.

 

I completely forgot to check my head unit, I might get a different one so the volume is a knob instead of a button but I'll post a pic to the thread after work

 

Knob>know>button