General Supercharger Thread

I’ve always been brainstorming how to incorporate some way of cooling the HX fluid without going to a killer chiller/interchiller. This conversation has me digging deeper. I found these mini chillers made by Rigid. There is a 12v option available, it only weighs 6.6 lbs and draws 8.5 amps. Biggest problem would be finding somewhere to mount it! Have to look at the specs further and see if it’s truly feasible. It’s definitely an intriguing idea though. It would also step down the diameter of the tubing, but if it’s providing enough cooling capacity it may not matter. https://uploads.strikinglycdn.com/files/95da18d9-6a62-4646-a733-c02f00669656/Mini Water Chiller PDF.pdf

 

Correct bonded areas but they still recommend hood pins

 

When I had the MP112 on my 6.0, I ran a second HX that also had a fan on it. It was from a mustang. I believe it was an OEM HX that came on a mustang with a blower.

 

Can not remember where but when this was brought up before someone posted up a place that incorporates the AC to cool things off.

 

https://fiinterchillers.com/

 

Yes, that is the killerchiller/interchiller. I’ve heard it’s very hard on the compressor, I believe it causes liquid slugging.

 

I have to ask an honest question.

This thread has been hugely informative in regards to superchargers and I thank you.

Is this thread now intended for peeps looking to find the end of performance gains for the Toyota Tundra...regardless of the depth of ones pockets?

I showed up just wanting to improve my towing prowess. I knew going in the Tundra was not a track killing rig, but the engine had room to make the the truck an amazing towing rig by adding a SC.

I don't want to offend, but do I really need to chase an extra 15 HP bouncing off the rev limiter by installing smaller pullies?

I don't want to hit the rev limiter...ever. I just want an extra 80-100 HP available when I hit some random steep hills on the xway.

 

no and no

 

Most restaurant menus have dozens of items; I don't have to order everything on it so I only choose one or two things. But it's easy to get talked in to a soda, appetizer, and dessert. So stick to your budget and appetite. Same goes for the supercharger.

 

Now I'm hungry...

 

Someone was asking me the other day if I was still going to do some nitrous/meth injection plates, and I had mentioned to them that it was in the books but what would really be cool is to have them double as secondary heat exchangers. Space the blower up an inch or two, plus thermally isolate the spacers from the heads, plus have integrated heat exchangers in the spacer to try and drop the temperature even further.

I think that'd be a fun project, and would maximize the passive cooling you could get, especially if it was doubled up with an icebox when you wanted to get frisky.

 

No this thread is showing the capabilities and possibilities outside of the normal kits provided. At the end of the day the kits available are plenty for 99% of the population. Does the tundra need 19” of travel and the ability to fly through the air? No, but pushing platforms and developing things is something I enjoy so here we are lol.

 

Not offended but you are obligated to purchase every item mentioned in this thread, even if it means 1/2 HP gain. Post receipts when you are caught up.

 

Bwahaha!

Expect that this soon.

 

Ok now I'm deeply offended.

In all seriousness the thread evolved from discussing the safety of Stage 1 Harrop AKA "no tune base fuel map" to an information sharing discussion regarding superchargers and related performance mods.

For a boost in towing performance while preserving good reliability there is nothing wrong with running a base kit/Stage 1 or going up a pulley size/Stage 2. For 99% of people the base kits have mostly everything you need. The smaller pulleys discussed later were mainly for folks towing at altitude.

 

Nice find. Been thinking about Killer Chiller alternatives that don't tap onboard AC but haven't started researching. These units run ~$450 for the base. Looking at a larger unit in another model runs ~$1300

Curious about the LBP rating under cooling capacity.

 

You're fine where your at. Will the engine grenade? Will the transmission burn up? Yes, they will. Been through both but here I am with another stock engine and transmission seeing how it goes with added safety margins.

 

"Yes they'll go boom, but here I am again and pushing 15psi through a stock engine, this time will be different though"

 

After getting familiar with terms I'm not sure that small model will have enough cooling capacity as a standalone unless it is used inline to compliment an intercooler. I don't think it would be suitable to replace one like the KC units. I think that particular unit is meant to cool a desktop for benchmarking.

Reading through BTU calculation guides for intercooler sizing and pump selection I'm seeing calculations for BTUs in 100Ks range. This thing is probably ~500BTU.

https://www.w8ji.com/intercooler_design.htm
The meaty parts simplified:

BTU per hour = temperature rise * horsepower * 2.1818 after finding BTU per Hour Water flow in GPM = BTU per hour/(allowed rise* 500)

Example: 500HP, air charge is 110F hotter than inlet air, and 20 degree allowed water rise we have 500*110*2.1818 = 119999 BTU hr. 119999/(20*500)=119999/10000 = 11.999 GPM

That company has a bunch of products though so don't let me discourage you from investigating this.

 

You got me...but I have @snivilous tuning and and...its 14psi. Haha

Edit...you did ask me to see how far it can go with proper tuning and it was reasonable to me.

 

I believe the zzperformance is 10 gal and the standard Bosch is 5gal. But not 100%

 

Thank you.
That sounds about right. 7l/m on this kit is less than 2 GPM.

 

About how many gallons are in the intercooler system? Doesn't matter which blower just exclude aftermarket expansion tanks.

 

Yes I was thinking of it as a supplement that would be piped in series after the front mount HX. That said, if those Chinese units convert to only being 500btu/hr it may be too small for what we are trying to do. The HX loop is about 1.5 gallons.

Most car AC compressors are good for 1.5-2 tons of cooling (18,000-24,000 BTUs). The Bosch pump does 6 GPM. 6 GPM at 18,000 BTUs is a 6 degree delta T in and out of the HX. Point being, even in the case of the inter chiller you don’t need crazy capacity to really cool down the fluid since you’re not running 100% flat out all the time. Most of our driving creates 0 boost whatsoever, and we don’t do longer than 15 seconds WOT pretty much ever. The chiller is there to precool the fluid in anticipation of heat from boost, not keep up with the heat load BTU for BTU in real time. To have 100k btu capacity of cooling you would need a massive cooling system. Most peoples homes only have a 3 -4 ton (36,000-48,000btu) air conditioner for example which is already double the capacity of your cars AC.

 

Also, just another reminder that a larger pump (more GPM) does absolutely nothing for cooling down your HX fluid beyond the standard Bosch pump assuming the capacity and efficiency of your heat exchanger remains the same. All it does is add extra electrical load (more heat) to your system due to the larger power requirements to pump fluid faster, and also pumping fluid faster through the same pipe generates more heat if anything due to more friction/resistance. You’ll have more flow, but you’ll have less heat exchange (smaller delta T) in and out of your heat exchangers.

 

so the only real solution is a larger HX?

 

Basically that would be the easiest and best way to increase the heat rejection capacity of the intercooler system without using some other means of chemical/mechanical cooling. The frozenboost HX is probably a solid upgrade.

 

I would of been nice if I had a before and after IAT's. When switching to a larger air/water cooler, HX.supposed to be 2x the size. Just thicker than what you get in the SC kit. The original HX was starting to fail. So logical to go bigger and with a bigger pump.

 

These pics always amaze me.

There is still 2 more coolers that you can't see in that picture, yet the engines don't have a problem staying cool.

 

The mechanical fan pulls a lot of air! The a/c condenser and radiator still stay nice and cool. I've been running an e-fan since 2016. A bastardized setup in the factory shroud. But it works...