What does it take to run 275/70R17s on my 03

At most, I’m thinking that would be the most you’d need, yes. Specifically those two items. We don’t know anything about the wheel specs, so nobody that’s replied yet can say shit about whether they’ll work with/without spacers or not, if they’ll poke enough, if they’ll tuck too much, etc. Like, what’s the width? Offset? Hub bore? All of these details are important. But if the wheels/tires are a good deal, and you don’t want to miss out, I’d buy them now, install the fronts, and see where you’re at. NOTE: You may need lug nuts compatible with those wheels!

Know that, with 1.5” lift up front, you’re pushing into “need to lift the rear” territory depending the condition of your shocks/struts. If 4WD you’ll want to watch for CV axle grease sling after lifting/leveling and take action.

Just do yourself favors:

Skip the Rough Country bullshit products. Go with a reasonable quality brand.

If you do use wheel spacers, I’d recommend going with steel spacers vs. alloy, but either way… (1) invest in a decent quality torque wrench to install them properly, so you dont crack your spacers at install and so you don’t crack them by over-torquing your wheels when you reinstall them for anything on the future and, (2) never let anyone use an impact wrench on your wheels, which means don’t go to tire shops and think twice about letting other people do anything to your truck that involves removing the wheels.

tl;dr - start small, and opt for the least path of resistance, since you’re not looking to do any of this for performance reasons, so IMHO there’s no reason to spend 4x-5x as much money.

Trying to think if there’s anything else to warn/advise on here…. I think that’s it. Oh. “DISCLAIMER: YMMV, proceed at your own risk, I’m not responsible for any damage you cause modifying your property, I’m just a random stranger on the internet”

 

Regarding you AC, have an 03 AC 4x4 V8 with stock UCAs using front adjustable shocks and stock springs. Have run 33s at 2.5-3" lift (but could choose between 0-3") and kept mud flaps with no spacers running Toyo A/T II and Pathfinder AT.

 

Any rubbing at all?

 

Full specs:
Toytec Boss at about 1.5" lift with 650lb springs
Freedom UCA
Stock rear
New EVERYTHING front and rear
1.25" spacers
255x85xr16(33x10x16) Cooper st maxx tires

I rub on the pinch weld on the drivers side on left turns, mainly due to bad alignment. If I'm turning at full stuff it rubs bad, and the pass side will rub slightly. With a good alignment and a touch more lift it wouldn't rub at all.







Just a side note, it will be higher in the frontfor a while until the new springs settle. This was right after install:

 

Regarding sway bar links; in my personal experience you should run extended links even if all you're doing is leveling the front end. My brand new replacements didn't even hold up a few thousand miles. Go with the Suspension Maxx.

 

I'm probably going to go ahead and do that, because when I got home today I was taking a look at the underside of my truck and realized my driver's side sway bar link is broken.

As far as the tire and wheels I am going to get them and and throw them on and see how the fitment is, and decide what next is need from there.

 

Take a look at the links in my previous posts. Each will show the adjustable shock with the OE springs, the easily done tiny trimming on the front fender liner (no pinch weld rubbing with the right alignment as @bmf4069 suggested would be true) as well as recommendations for CV boots to consider if lifting the front more than 2". If the boots are old they'll likely crack but < $100 and a weekend later they can be rebooted. Or just do it proactively and save having to power wash off the whopping grease mess and possibility of dirt and water in your CV joints. Video on the process is included.

 

Interestingly my stocks are going strong after 100k miles with 2.5" lift (and no real huge articulations) but totally suggest the longer links and likely will be doing that soon when working through the front end. Replaced shocks and CVs already. UBJs, LBJs, rack bushings, links (and maybe TREs and front wheel bearings proactively) to go.

 

BTW previously thought @shifty` has special gold TREs to color match his wheels that he said actually were stock ... and just realized from this photo I've had them too this whole time....

 

When I got my stock 2004 4x4 RCLB it had LT265/70R17's on it and they never rubbed. Now I have LT265/75R16's on it which are the same width and diameter, and they have never rubbed in 22K miles. But I don't do any high speed rock crawling. I also have LT265/75R16's on my stock 2006 4x4 RCLB and no rubbing in the last 45,000 miles.
Mine are all load range C and door sticker pressures.

 

I just picked up the wheels and tires yesterday and they seem to fit stock with plenty of clearance.
As far as turning at full turn nothing touches or rubs but that was just sitting still.
And they look awesome.

 

Just wait till you go through some dips while turning.

 

For instance, can try slowly entering a slanted driveway at an angle.

 

This ^^

And turning onto anything at an angle get me every time. Doesn’t even need to be a huge angle, 10% grade is ample. There’s one road in town that dead-ends at a 10-12% grade onto a main road, both paved. If I’m not going less than 5mph onto it, BRRRRRRRRRT.

 

Yup. my gf's driveway gets me every time.

 

If I'm turning at all at full lock and there is any change in grade. I go BRRRRRTTTTTT on the passenger side. There's a little knob right above the pinch weld(it's been cut and hammer flat) I need to take a sledge hammer to and hammer it in some.

 

I ended up going with the Bilstein 5100's and just reused the OEM springs and also did the suspensionMaxx extended sway bar links.
As far as I can tell so far pretty much no rubbing at all unless I'm at full lock on a turn which isn't very often.

 

Looks awesome. Would love to see a side shot from mid-truck just to get a better idea of proportion!

 

Here's what I've got.

 

That looks f'n sweet dude. I hope it drives equally nice. We've heard mixed reviews on ride comfort using anything but bottom notch with aftermarket/lifted springs, and above the 2nd or 3rd notch with OEM. I'm super curious how you're feeling about all of this after putting a few hundo miles on it.

But as it sits, that looks really, really nice.

 

I actually have an hour drive back and forth to work everyday and I've been driving my truck with the new setup for the last two weeks. Everything feels really good so far The bigger tires definitely are louder though, but not to a point point where it's anything unbearable.