First Oil Change Questions

Did my first one at 1400ish- sample to blackstone- they indicated no suprises or anything like that- and levels that were normal for a new engine break-in.

Planning to send them a sample of every other 5k oil change- especially through the 50k mile range of blow-ups just to see if the testing picks something up beforehand.

 

Ever consider picking up a

Proform 66490 Oil Filter Cutter - Universal Canister Filter Removal Tool, 1-3/4" to 5-3/4", Fits Cars, Boats, Trucks, Tractors and More

oil filter cutting tool? Open it up and look in the pleats will tell you quicker than a blackstone report it there is excessive wear.

 

I have not- and would not know what "normal" looks like epsecially early on.

Blackstone does give helpful analysis, comparison, and benchmarks to other V35A-FTS engines and what various concentrations of metals in a sample mean.

 

It's straight forward. Looking in the pleats, should not see any glitter, perhaps a few random small glitter like particles. Then cut filter every change to watch for changes. Here is an example from my 700mile and 4500mile changes, nothing visible in the pleats. Once you do it, it's a 10 minute add to the oil change.

 

Switch to higher viscosity.

 

Why? Do you have actual data A/B comparison data? Testimonial, I think, I feel, I believe, I type in CAPs so it's true - none of that counts.

Toyota has actual data to support 0w20 usage to get past the warrenty period. I'm confident the wear was evaluated well beyond 60k miles as that is part of reliability stressing. If you have ever worked in OEM environment, the rigor is well beyond most aftermarket suppliers.

The filter was pristine showing running the recommended oil works. This included pulling 7k trailer several trips between the 700 and 4500 change.

 

International versions of this you can run all the way up to 10w-30; I am sure (and obviously cant prove- as I am not a Toyota engineer with access to the data) that 0W-20 is to satisfy some nebilus government standards.

Also, toyota wants you to get to warrnty then sell you a new car. Their business is selling cars not making them last forever.

This is a suprising response from someone who says look at the sparkles in my pictures so I am right

 

I agree the 0w20 is to meet gov spec as it's been stated elsewhere in the for - US has a evap system different then rest of world.

Regardless, Toyota has the data to stand behind the recommendation.

Do you see sparkles in my image? I didn't. And be real, wear occurs. I've been cutting filters for years had 3 GMS with 200kmiles. A random particle is normal. Increase in particles will get attention.

Motor oil discussion are often opinion based. Forum folks have all the answers. Yet how many cars are running with the cheapest oil Walmart sells? When was the last time you heard of a failed engine where it was stated the wrong weight oil was the root cause?

And yes, it's my opinion the oil is sufficient based on viewing the oil filter. At least I present a data point.

 

Because you have glitter from main bearings in your pan/oil filter.

 

What gas tank evap system has to do with engine oiling? You can claim the truck needs 0w20 because it has rear coil springs as well.

 

It's been proven over and over again that Toyota only "requires" 0w-20 in the US because of EPA/CAFE bullshit propaganda. It's also been proven that the same engines in other parts of the world can use xx oil viscosities. This has been beat to death over what viscosities the 5.7 can use and yes, you can go all the way to 20w-50 on the 5.7. Yet Toyota tells you it will blow up if you use anything other than 0w-20. So if your in Mexico and did an oil change with 10w-40 and crossed over into the states, it will blow up.

As too the glitter, well thats pretty useless since Toyota won't do anything till it blows up. Looking at glitter does nothing for you and there's nothing you can do to stop a bearing from failing.

 

No point in not using 5w30 instead of 0w20. You won't loose even 1 MPG. Viscosity difference at operational temps is marginal. Some thicker 0w20 are very close to some thinner 5w30. You can even go ahead and switch to Red Line 0w20, which is thicker than Toyota 0w20. But you can get better viscosity for less dollars. Thicker oil film is what keeps you from seeing glitter in your oil filter. Thicker oil and higher grade gasoline. And short oil change intervals. And don't be stupid and don't floor it at 100+ degrees ambient temps.

 

So don't go into boost on my SC in S.Fla where it's always 150*. Got it.

 

In 150 degrees ambient weather you can do anything. The brains are already cooked

 

While I appreciate the recommendation, given I have a Toyota 125k mile warranty and my line of work, I will run the 0W-20 that they recommend/require to maintain the warranty until Toyota says otherwise.

 

Don't think I have ever seen "required" in the literature. Recommended, yes. Actually cant remember the last time any manuf has done an oil viscosity test up on an engine failure. You also do the recommended 10k oil changes? Asking for a friend.

 

No doubt about it, this horse has been beat. But then again, no harm in overthinking it (you didn't pay for his truck), for most of us it's the 2nd largest investment you'll make, so what's the harm in doing an extra OCI. Yes, people sell their vehicles before there are major problems, if the mileage gets a little too high, or they're craving the next big thing. But if I was the 2nd or 3rd owner, I would highly appreciate a 1k and 5k break-oil change as it would tell me how you value your vehicle(s). I would rather have a larger batch of used vehicles being taken care of w/ routine maintenance than not. At the end of the day, what the hell why not.

OP, +1 change it at 1k and go from there, that way you'll never have to question it in the back of your head.

 

Can you share the data on the marginal viscosity differences?

 

Whether glitter in the filter or a shit Blackstone report, the end result is start saving for rebuild or trade it in.

 

https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

 

You don't like Blackstone reports?

 

I changed mine at 5k Wix filter and 5w20……..damn outlaw!

 

Fair enough. You are correct, “recommended” is the term utilized when viscosity is specified in the 2024 owner’s manual. The 2024 manual does however state that 5W-20 may be used if 0W-20 is not available but that “it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.” In most industries and professions, the term “must” is considered mandatory language, hence my original use of “recommend/require”. Additionally, my Toyota Vehicle Service Agreement states the following: “You must have your vehicle serviced as recommended by the manufacturer as provided in the Manufacturer’s Owner’s Manual…” As such, I am choosing to utilize 0W-20 in part to prevent any potential grounds for claim denial in the future. By no means am I trying to provide legal advice, make recommendations to others, claim anyone is wrong, dissuade others, insinuate that there is or isn’t a better oil to use, etc. This is merely my use case and application. YMMV

You can let your friend know that I plan to perform oil changes at a 5k interval as my use and driving can fall under special operating conditions.

 

While I understand you point, even the word must, from a legal stand point, I also am not giving legal advice, would be very hard to prove that you didn't go back to a 0w after using a 5w. Not to mention they would have a hard time proving that the oil caused the failure under the Magnuson Moss Act. Also considering the fact that the engine in other parts of the world can use a higher viscosities. The same verbage is used in the previous gen manuals, so nothing new there. But it is a fact that outside the US the 5.7 can use up to 20w-50.
I will tell my friend you are doing 5k. He will be glad that at least you care for your engine more than Toyota, EPA and CAFE.

 

Nothing against Blackstone, "shit Blackstone" was intended to be read as a Blackstone report that is terrible, indicating emanate failure.

 

Thanks for the link. While the data shows the cSt of 0w20 and 20W50 are similar at operating temp, it's the start up where different. I'm in VT up near the border, we spend maybe 4 months at 0C and during that time will experience -25c. I recall tribal knowledge suggesting most engine wear occurs during warm up. I have clipped a image of the data from the page you provided selecting 5w30 and 0w20 to keep the cSt scale relevant. In my climate, I can see the advantage of 0w20 as the cSt is significantly lower at -13F. They are similar at 68F.

Looking only at cSt, I do not see an advantage to using 5W30 in place of 0W20. There may be additive package differences between grades, I suspect that is IP not in public domain.

 

You're right that most of the wear happens during start. That's the situation when you want as thick oil film as possible.

I camp in winter in northern Maine, 5w30 in negative temps is no problem in the morning.

 

Interesting comment. My understanding is the thinner oil will get distrubuted across the engine sooner that thicker oil. Pressure is a measure of restriction, not flow.

 

Obviously my example is 2 totally different oils, but. I use all assorts of oils at work, industrial treatment plant. I can say without doubt, that a thicker oil will stay longer on a metal part. Now when I say thicker I mean a 20 weight blower oil compared to a 75w gear oil. 20w is like water and just falls right off and leaves a very thin layer of oil. A 75w will stick to whatever it falls on like there is no tomorrow. Obviously like I said 2 totally different oils but it's stuff I have experienced at work. Now 20w compared to 30w , I would imagine would be minimal but the 30w will stick around longer. Then we have the distribution aspect of it. On 1 side, the parts are more coated with oil so it should be fine. On the other hand, less coating but faster oil distribution.

 

I get it. Life is full of compromises. Brings up memories of STP